gr5

Ah. Good picture. Okay. This implies the darlington transistor is blown. Q4. It has enough power to drive the multimeter to 17V but not enough power to drive the fan. You attached 12V to the wire under the printer right? This transistor is easily damaged by normal use. I recommend you simply replace it.

Sometimes there is electrical noise/interference between the fan signal and the temperature signal. Sometimes the problem is worse when the fan is *not* at 100% or 0%. The solution is usually to move the fan wires in the print head away from the thermocouple wires. The problem area is not above the head. The problem area is between the thermocouple and the tiny circuit board on the print head. As a test, set the fan to 0% and temp to 200C. Watch the temperature curve. After it settles, turn the fan on to 50%. See if it starts to oscillate or swing randomly. Then set fan to 100% and watch again. Another common problem is the cable and connector. AFter the above test, while head is at 200C push it around to the 4 corners several times. Pause in each corner to see if the temperature changes suddenly. If it does you have bad wiring above the head.

You didn't answer my question but I can infer it from the fact that you turned on support *and* the top surface looks good. You need to do #1-6 in my post above. Also: 7) Turn off support 8) Rotate the spoon 180 in Cura so that the flat part faces down.

If you got rid of those holes it would probably look better as Cura wouldn't have to go back so many times and fill in the gaps it didn't get yet. But I assume that's not an option. You could also make the suface - not flat. Maybe make it curved? Add some interesting line patterns to it? Or hexagons or some cool pattern? Also you can put the surface you want to look best on the bottom, set the temp very high e.g. 240C for the first layer and increase flow to 130% for the first layer. Then when first layer is done put everything back to normal. Cura isn't perfect but it gets better every month.

True - most of the advice is for the UM1 but the advice is almost identical. Someone already posted the 10 best ways. I've posted 10 good ways. I don't want to do it every day. Sorry. Did you try bristle from a brush while hot? Another nice way posted this week... Remove the bowden tube from either end (not both ends) preferably the head end. Push the PLA in while at 180C. Then cool to 90C exactly. Wait about 2 minutes. Then pull hard on the PLA. The PLA will be *almost* solid and will pull out gunk and dirt and ABS with it. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times or until the clog is gone. Then replace the bowden tube back on.

There's only a picture of the spoon. Not the settings. Is this the orientation you printed in? You should definitely flip it over if so - you want the spoon facing down. This should fix a large portion of your issues. Turn off support if you have it on - you probably don't need brim either (although if the part lifts off the bed while printing, turn brim back on. Regarding retraction: There are 6 retraction related settings: 1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality 2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm. 3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0mm. I hate this setting right now. 4) In expert settings you can set "combing" on or off - it shouldn't make a huge difference for this part. Lately turning this "off" seems better in the current version of Cura but in the next version it might be best to turn it back on. 5,6) On the printer, you can control retraction there also Leave the retraction speed alone but change the retraction amount from 4.5mm to 5.5mm.

Yes. When you put the 12V on the fan, was it still attached to the print head? Or did you remove it? Did you apply 12V at the print head or underneath the UM?

So either slow down your print, or print with thinner layers (less plastic) or raise the temperature. Or if the quality is good enough don't worry about it. If it does the click often on the *first* layer it's not a problem. It may mean the bed is slightly too high. But if it does it on the other layers it means you are underextruding.

Note that the extruder motor may fall when you remove the 4 screws. Not a big deal really but if it does you will have to remove that back left cover. Maybe before removing the last screw you can put something down inside the cover to hold the motor. A ruler maybe?

I got those pics from this post: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3046-i-have-an-ultimaker-2-for-a-week-what-do-you-want-to-know/?p=22592

Spiralize is a very special setting and can make a print much better or much worse. It is intended for vases and cups that have no holes in the sides. What you have we call "strings". We don't call them blobs. "blobs" is something else that you will get to see later There are 6 retraction related settings: 1) Make sure retraction is checked on basic/quality 2) In expert settings set minimum travel to 0mm or at least something small like 1mm. 3) In expert settings set "minimal extrusion..." to 0mm. I hate this setting right now. 4) In expert settings you can set "combing" on or off - it shouldn't make a huge difference for this part. Lately turning this "off" seems better in the current version of Cura but in the next version it might be best to turn it back on. 5,6) On the printer, you can control retraction there also Leave the retraction speed alone but change the retraction amount from 4.5mm to 5.5mm.

The extra fast "click" where it goes backwards suddenly (but not then forwards the same amount) is when the stepper motor doesn't have enough power and it slips. If you are getting a few clicks occasionally it should be fine but if you are getting them this often then you have too much pressure in your nozzle and you will get underextrusion. You can ignore this but if you want beautiful prints you need to either raise the temperature (make the PLA more like honey and less like toothpaste) or slow down the print speed (to give more time to get all that plastic through the tiny nozzle.

The problem is probably not the power supply. If it was it would have shut down. Instead it is likely in the wiring or most likely in the solder joints on the bed. Read this thread/topic here which includes photos: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3745-had-a-problem-with-my-um2-heated-bed

Maybe when you put 12V on the wires you fixed something? Loose wire?

I don't know for sure but it should be fine. This is a relatively mature technology.

I see that your SD card issues have been resolved in another thread and that Sander is sending you a new cable.

That's normal. It is the same way on my machine. I think that is for if Ultimaker ever sells a "dual nozzle" upgrade. I think it will go to "temp2".

There are 10 ways to fix this. Use google to search these groups and you will learn much. The above two methods combined may be enough.

So you have a makerbot also? Were the red trees on the makerbot and the green trees on the ultimaker? Both look incredibly similar in quality - for example both have trouble with the ring on top.

Most of the problems with the SD card are fixed if you move the ribbon cables just a little bit. Remove the larger cover on the bottom of the UM2. There are 2 gray flat cables in the corner. Try moving them away from each other maybe and try leaving the cover off. See if that helps.

Ce modèle a trop de facs pour Cura (1,9 millions polygones). J'ai utilisé ce pour réduire les polygones. http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab J'ai posté le résultat ici pour vous. 100.000 polygones. http://gr5.org/cayman_small.stl

This is strange - illuminarti did a print with tens of thousands of retractions and it came out great. I think you need to open up that feeder but beware that the stepper may fall down and you may have to remove the white metal left rear cover to get it all back together.

:eek: You need to tighten that tiny screw on the part you pulled out. You will probably have to remove the white metal stepper motor cover in the left rear so you can see the motor. You have to remove those 4 screws that hold the filament cover but when you do the motor may fall. You have to slide that part back on and tighten it very very tight. Tighter than you might think. Remove the blue filament before you slide it back in. Then you have to get it all back together which may be difficult without removing the white metal motor cover.

If that doesn't work check the other end of the cable. It goes into the larger box on the underside. That is held in by only 2 screws.

1125C? or 112C or 115C? Let's see - I'm guessing this is a thermistor as that is very common with heated beds. There are two ways to hook up a thermistor: One way an open goes to 5V, the other way it goes to 0V. Either way, an open is similar to very high resistance and thermistors get higher resistance when they are cold. So if it was +1125C then that implies a short in the wiring. The two wires are probably touching where they are exposed (where there is no insulation). I don't think you need a multimeter. Just turn it off, remove the bed, remove the connector and look at the 4 wires. The 5 screws to remove are shown in the photo above. There's a picture of the 4 wires here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3735-a-fix-for-ultimaker-2-heated-bed-not-working/