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S'il vous plaît ajoutez un espace après la période avant de traduire! S'il vous plaît ajoutez un espace après la période avant de traduire! S'il vous plaît ajoutez un espace après la période avant de traduire!

The UM1 has the same screw head ON EVERYTHING. Too bad they couldn't do that with the um2. I think the screwdriver that comes with it fits quite a few things - for example the screws that hold the panels together perhaps?

I think people get the voucher only if the original schedule was delayed by an additional 2 weeks due to some missing/defective part where they had to halt shipments for a week or two. I think this only happened to a small number of people. But I don't really know. So if you get it within 8 weeks of when you ordered it you are probably not getting a voucher - but hey - I really don't know the details.

I strongly recommend you read about these tests before you do anything: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2532-prevent-ringing-wobbly-surface-after-sharp-corners/ I recommend doing what that guy did and leaving your jerk a lone and cutting acceleration time in half. It will probably only increase your print time by 10% since your parts are so large (long straight lines compared to say a UM robot). M201 X3000 Y3000 Just add that at the end of your "start" gcode. It sets max accel to 3000mm/sec/sec.

I did just what you are asking once by hand - I hand edited the gcode and just deleted the upper layers that I didn't want.

Your UM2 should have come with a screwdriver for that. It's a very very nice one. It should be in the same bag as with the blue roll of tape and the green grease (for your Z screw). Look for these items. If you are sure you didn't get a screwdriver write a support ticket.

I see the problem - your printer is upside down. (just kidding). The slower you print, the less pressure build up you get in the nozzle, and the less stringing issues you have. Also colder temps help because the filament flows like toothpaste instead of honey but this also requires slower printing. For something like this print consider 20mm/sec, .1mm layers, and 195C or even 190C (it's hard to say as every different color and manufacturer has different viscosity at 190C). And like Illuminarti said - do the settings he recommends or you might not be getting retraction where you need it. Also consider printing this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157

However I recommend setting both of those minimums to 0. Even if you set the minimum extrusion before retraction to 1mm of filament, this translates to quite a bit more printing of .4mm .1mm thick filament - I forget the numbers now but I think it's something like 70mm printing.

Get wider blue tape. And this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 That's it. Don't get a heated bed. Don't print feet. Don't change the fan shroud (especially that!) as you are likely to make it worse. Do fix the electronics fan if it is noisy.

I don't like cool head lift - it tends to make vertical strings. I wish there was a sideways head pause. The best looking result solution is to print a tower (or print two items) next to your print. I set my minimum speed to 0. Never had a problem with it. I think it was more for the old ultimaker V1 print head which was updated over a year ago.

It is rare to reach the end of the coil. Cura tells you how many meters you need for each print.

If it wasn't shipped by 4pm europe time (morning usa time) then it won't get shipped until Monday likely. You can check DHL to see if it was shipped if you have your ultimaker "R" number. Just replace this link with your R number: www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking/shippers_reference.shtml?shipperReference=R000000000&fromDayValue=01&fromMonthValue=12&fromYearValue=2013&toDayValue=30&toMonthValue=12&toYearValue=2013&accountNumber=&countryCodeIndex=&countryCode=

You post on a Friday night at 10pm in europe. What do you expect? You will not get any answers until Monday I'm sure.

I get the red graphs - angle determines print time. There are 2 angles so you have a 2d map of print time. Green graph - I guess material changes due to amount of support material? But why is green graph x axis from 0 to 26? and not 0 to 90? don't understand purple either I guess. Blue graph I assume is the amount of object that has angles over a certain value? 45 degrees? Based on orientation? Or something else?

Interesting. Other's have said that the print head won't turn on until it reaches a temperature above 5C. This has to do with the electronics that report the temp which can't measure temperatures at 0C or colder so it's tough to tell the difference between a failure and temps at or below 0C. I don't know about the new build plate temp sensor on the UM2 - I don't know what technology it uses but I had assumed it was a different technology that can read lower temperatures. I just don't know. But there may be an arbitrary limit of 5C for that as well.

It should be. I have windows 7 though. Please put a space after your period before translating as without the space, google gets confused: "bien.J'ai" = mal "bien. J'ai" = bon Were the fans blowing or sucking? If you are sure that the fans are blowing (not sucking) then try lowering the temp to 200 on the top layer (or all layers) and you also should lower the speed a little - maybe 30mm/sec. Si le ulticontrolleur a la vitesse à 100% et Cura a été fixé à 50mm/sec alors il se déplace à 50mm/sec. Si vous modifiez la vitesse à 200%, il sera alors le double de la vitesse de cura de sorte qu'il sera 100mm/sec. Si vous modifiez la vitesse de 50%, il sera la moitié de la vitesse de cura à 25mm/sec.

My UM1 belts are much looser than I would have expected belts should be. I get good quality. I have heard that tight belts cause high friction and may cause other problems.

1) After slicing did you look at the stool in layer view? 2) What? does it just sit there? Is the printer quiet? No steppers moving? Are fans still running? It sounds like you lost power to everything but the arduino maybe? Does this "pause" take one or two seconds? Or does it last for many minutes?

The belts go through a "block". It sounds like the 2 X blocks on the front and back side are not lined up. Either that or the 2 Y blocks aren't lined up. You can open up these blocks - I haven't done it yet - I'm not sure how you do it but it should be pretty simple. Inside there is a belt tightening mechanism and some way to let the belt slip. You can either let the belt slip through so that the axis is now lined up... Or alternatively you can loosen the set screws on the two pulleys on one of the sides and you can then move the belt on one side without the other. Get everything nice and square and lined up and then tighten those set screws tight. Tighten them very very very tight. Else they will slip.

MB2 acceleration settings must be very very low with its heavy heavy print head. This explains a lot, thanks.

@etienne - UM1 or UM2?

I often print only 3 or 4 layers and abort the print. Then measure the actual size and go back to the cad and adjust.

Much discussion here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3418-um2-extrusion-rates/ But no, M907 as in: M907 Z255 is full current THIS IS WRONG - 255 WILL DO 255MA M907 Z166 is default (1.3 amps) ALSO WRONG - USE Z1300 TO GET 1.3A Actually I think M908 will work also: M908 P2 S127 (or maybe P3???) should set Z to 1.0 amps Now I tested these commands a while back as you can see in the link above but they didn't work. But Daid said he would enable this feature in a future version of Marlin so maybe these work now.

My quick summary. If "jerk" is zero then it's simple - every line segment would start from a stop, accelerate to max velocity, maintain that velocity as long as possible and then decelerate to 0 at the last possible moment so that it ends the segment with a deceleration ramp. But in practice it doesn't come to a complete stop at each segment so it's similar but starting at a particular velocity, ramping up, maintaining max speed (if it gets there) and then decelerating to be at the proper next vertex speed when it gets to that vertex. The "jerk" setting is not zero. The jerk setting is not the official definition of jerk but similar. It sets the velocity at the vertexes where any two line segments come together - the idea is that for a circle of 20 line segments the change in angle is minor and you shouldn't have to come to a complete stop 20 times. So it calculates the "delta" velocity vector from one instant before the vertex to one instant afterwards and keeps that delta below the jerk value. So if jerk is 20mm/sec (default i think) and two vertexes are in a straight line you can go unlimited speed from one vertex to the next. If the vertexes are a 90 degree corner then the minimum speed at the vertex will be sqrt(2)*20 or 28mm/sec. The more gradual the change in direction the faster you are allowed to go. The worst case - 180 degree change in direction implies max speed at vertex at 10mm/sec. Now you have to calculate all these max speeds 16 segments ahead and work backwards to "now" and figure out what your max speed is along the whole path.

I said it already - but consider assembling the Z stage now with the parts you have.