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The F command in a G0 or G1 move sets the "feedrate" or mm/sec for all 4 axes. Once you set the feedrate it should stay that value for all future moves. It's best to control the max speed seperately with the marlin firmware. You can set the max velocity for Z and E independent of X,Y. So if you ask for a feedrate of 300mm/sec and leave it there, and then move Z axis or move E axis, Marlin will only move at the max velocity for that axis and not 300mm/sec. If you move 3 axes at the same time, the speed will be determined by the distance and max speed for each axis.

Make sure they are *smaller* than .4mm, lol! you want 28G (28 gauge) or smaller (29G, 30G are good): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Needle_gauge_comparison_chart I don't recommend going smaller than 30G as they just get more and more delicate. So stick with 28G,29G or 30G.

1) 180C is quite cold. try 220C. 2) Can you show the other side of the tardis? I'm confused as to what the problem is. But are you printing in mid-air maybe?

I agree. You do not need to change speed. You are already using glue. Your ONLY problem related to curling now is that you are printing too high off the bed. Two of us have mentioned this now. Leveling properly is really really important. The PLA should be SQUISHED into the glass somewhat.

In expert settings, set the two retraction values to 0. ESPECIALLY minimal extrusion. If you have this as low as 1mm, it still takes about 200mm of horizontal printing (at .1mm layers) before it has moved enough to retract. Just set these both to 0mm and you will be safer. edit: arrg. edited this 5 times. It's about 200mm. Math: 2.85 diameter versus .4mm diameter nozzle means 1mm extrusion of filament is (2.85/.4)^2 or 50X as much or 50mm of .4mm diameter extrusion. 50mm extrusion of .4mm at .1mm layer height should be about 50 / 0.1 (layer height) gvies you 500 dots of extrusion times about .4mm length of each dot gives you about 200mm extrusion.

@GBR1 - you have under-extrusion on your bottom most layer almost certainly due to your Z height. You have the lowest layer set to .3mm so it is trying to exude .3mm worth of filament when z=.3. When you levelled, if you used a piece of paper then your z=0 is probably actually: nozzle .1mm above the bed. Instead of z=0 means touching the bed. You can fix this by leveling a little closer (nozzle closer to bed), or by increasing flow by 33% for the first layer. This is important not just for the look but also to get good adhesion so your part doesn't get knocked off too easily or so your part doesn't warp so much when the PLA shrinks (for larger parts).

@aad - This is a hardware issue. I recommend talking to customer support. They will have you remove your larger cover under your UM2 and then re-route the 2 gray flat ribbon cables. Even just removing the cover may be enough - but talk to (or email) UM Support. You did use SD card, right? USB not officially supported because it is flakey.

I doubt there are buffer problems. you have me very confused. Initially I thought the printer was still moving around on the first layer but no plastic coming out (clogged nozzle, cold nozzle, or extruder ground up the filament) but now it sounds like maybe it just skips over part of the printing and jumps to the next layer before it finishes? Which is it?

Yes. That's it. Chamber at 50C. Can steppers handle this? Maybe. But only the steppers go outside - the belts stay where they are. I have not done this but others have and it's quick and easy.

champion - what country are you in - please update your profile. If it was me, and in USA, I would just order an arduino - $20 on ebay delivered rather than have one shipped from netherlands. UM Support is great and will likely ship you a free part - contact by phone (english) or email. They work roughly 9am to 5pm Mon-Fri Netherlands time. >but still says device malfunctioned and did not start. I think I got that error once but it still worked - I forget. I definitely got that error once but I forget what happened after. In device manager if you see a COM port then note the value e.g. COM3, COM12, etc. Then run Cura and specify that com port in the cura settings. Try to re-install the firmware (make sure it is UM Original and not UM2).

I'm still a novice. Before the UM2 came out, experts recommend 70C and that is what I used with UM1. My understanding is if you only care about sticking - 60C is plenty. But if you have curling at the edges - this is a warping effect due to shrinkage, then you need to add "brim" feature in Cura and also 70C is better. The "glass" temperature for PLA is around 55-65C (depending on color and brand of PLA): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid#Chemical_and_physical_properties and if you can keep the bottom 5mm of your part above 65C then you won't get much lifting because it is too soft to pull up. I think this is why the new Cura keeps the fan off for much more than 1 layer now. Just make sure the bed cools to 50C before removing your part.

Usually it's better to push them through than to take the bowden off. Each time you take the bowden off you are in danger of scraping/damaging it with the thin metal blades that hold it in place.

Having the motors stick out the sides of the UM makes for more things to bump into and your motors mean you have to position the UM farther away from any walls and it's uglier. And the short belts work fine for me. If you transport your UM often you will be glad the motors are out of the way. However I've been thinking of moving mine to the outside (but still using the belts). It requires no extra hardware, no holes drilled, just swap the X,Y direction bits in software (or in hardware jumpers).

Photo please.

mac or pc? Try another machine maybe? I've had trouble connecting before - but it was fine after I power cycled the arduino. When you open device manager and plug in the usb to the arduino it should power up the arduino in that moment and the device manager listing should change after a few seconds. Does it add the new device in the list of unknown usb devices or in the list of COM devices?

For a large part you don't really need the side fans as each layer has plenty of time to cool before you start the next. So I suppose you could steal the connector for one of the side fans and use it for the rear fan. But note that if you disconnect one side fan, then neither will work as they are in series like the old Christmas tree light bulbs such that if one is broken they all go out. The rear fan normally comes on the instant you turn on power - even before the lights come on.

Also check "fix horrible" "A" checkbox.

I recommend maybe power cycling your printer Arduino before printing. Like Illuminarti says, it's probably remembering the position where you last printed and backing back up to the beginning with the extruder and doesn't know that that filament is gone now.

Well you can't include the enitre piXdiameter area because the UM prints in straight lines and you can't include the area you just printed. And you probably shouldn't include the area up ahead that you will be printing soon. So I think it's more like two hXn rectangular openings or 2 x h x n instead of 3.14 x h x n. But there is "more" resistance near the edges - I don't know what this effect is called. Anyway I agree that by the time you are at .1mm layers, printing more than nozzle width is going to be tough and so you have to print slow or just don't do it.

You just turn it. It has a plus-shaped slot so you can use a small phillips screwdriver. It's pretty obvious when you take the ulticontroller apart. But I wouldn't do this until you are sure the arduino is working through the USB.

I recommend the defaults: .4mm nozzle, 15% overlap, 20% infill. 50% overlap is okay, but I like 15%. 100% infill is too much. Better to set the shell to 30mm. That does 100% infill but with a safer pattern. .65mm nozzle - not sure how that will come out. I never tried it. It *should* work as long as you print very slow. But .4mm makes more sense. But I also have problems getting parts designed by other people to fit.

If you set nozzle width to .8 instead of .4 it changes several things. One thing is it outputs twice as much plastic (e.g. 200% flow). Another is it spaces the lines farther apart (.8mm apart instead of .4mm apart). A third thing is that it moves the head further from the edges when printing. You probably don't care about this but let me explain anyway: if you print a 10mm cube with .4mm nozzle, then it actually prints the cube .2mm smaller on all 4 sides to account for the radius of the nozzle. So the path of the gcodes will be 9.6mm by 9.6mm resulting hopefully in a 10mmX10mm cube. Same for interior holes and all edges - the head is moved towards the solid part of the part by .2mm. If you set nozzle to larger values it compensates further. Anyway, you could try increasing flow but not increasing nozzle size if you want. What do you mean by "not fitting"? Parts can be out of tolerance for many reasons. The biggest reason is shrinkage but there are other issues. Pictures? Usually if I make a part with important tolerances, I often just print the first layer, then measure the important distances, and then go back to CAD and adjust the model and print again. There is no simple formula to fixing these distances but the more you design and build the more often you can get it right the first time. You can even remove the "elephants foot" by printing the bottom few layers with a chamfer. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamfer

If the head is .2mm above the layer below and you are extruding at 100% then there is just enough room for a .4mm wide bead. But if you try to extrude 200% flow or .8mm worth of plastic for a .4mm bead then you have to squeeze that plastic out through a .2mm crack which means higher pressures in the nozzle. The plastic has to go through a .4mm hole, and than an additional resistance getting out through the .2mm crack on either side. Typically on my first layer both my UMs won't output more than a .4mm wide bead no matter how much pressure there is. This is more true if the first layer is only .1mm above the print bed. This tells me you need quite a bit more pressure to get that .8mm wide trace over a .4mm wide trace. If you are printing with .1mm layers it's much worse (much higher pressures).

Those voltages are good (19V and 12V) just the way you said. You can buy a new arduino quite inexpensive. $18 including shipping in USA. That's something like 12 euros. But first I would do more testing - you need the arduino driver installed. You can get it by installing Cura as the Cura installer also installs the arduino usb driver. You don't need power to the arduino as it can get it's power through the USB. Do any lights light up when you plug in the arduino? Do they flash/blink? Does your computer make the "usb sound" when you plug in the arduino? (the same sound as when you plug in a camera or iphone or any other usb device). Do you have windows or mac? The other issue "fading to blue" may be unrelated - the ulticontroller has a potentiometer that you can turn to fix this usually. It's easy to spot but you have to take all the wood off first.

Read the post 2 posts up please. The build plate is VERY simple. 1) Is it reading the correct temperature? Because the problem could be with the thermocouple which reads back the temperature. Room temp is around 25C so if it is reading 200C then that's the problem. 2) More likely it's reading 25C but not heating up so the wiring is probably bad. Like Robert said, check the wires at the build plate. If you have a volt meter, it should get to a significant voltage when turned on - something like 12V or 19V or 24V? 3) If this doesn't resolve the problem (if there is no voltage or if the wiring seems good and tight - not loose like Richards, then put your UM on it's side and remove the larger bottom cover. It's only 2 bolts. Very easy. The heated bed wires go where it says "heated bed" on the circuit board on the bottom of the board in this picture.