shurik

OK, so let's post it here, too. Totally agree with all the previous critique of the new forum layout. To sum up, it is horrible in almost every aspect, except the beauty. That won't help, however. Since, new posts feed is on it's way back, among some more vital fixes, please add to the list the ability to restore the subscriptions to the topics from the old forum. At least that. Maybe, it will make the new place at least a bit more useful again. P.S. What's wrong with phpbb or vbulletin?

On the old forum I was following a number of topics of my interest. Is it possible to restore the old following settings at least? The "remember me" option doesn't work - for both IE and Chrome. Is it possible to see the newest messages in the topics that I want to get updated about on the 1st page of the forum? Where's chat? When someone does "like" to a post, there's no way to know who it was... Ohhh, I'm suffering trying to use the new forum... :(

My goodness, people! It's good you know to make 3D printers better than you make the forums. There are so many good, working, proven forum engines out there, why not to take one? Out of no other choice, I'll try to get used to the new format, but it gives me a hard time... :( BTW, are we getting the chat back?

Absolutely lovely! But why to use so high infill ratio? The shapes shown in the video can be printed with very little or no infill at all!

Hi donnyfl, It looks like the brim was printed OK, and the layers of the part were not. That's weird, indeed. Were the side fans operating already on the first layer? What filament brand do you use? Looking at the video, I still think that the glass can be slightly risen up by a tiny bit, carefully using the calibration screws. The paper sheet calibration is never perfect. I had the very same situation like on the latest video, and it was only the matter of the fine-tuning the calibration.

OK, saw it. Looks like the printhead is still a bit far from the glass, so the molten plastic doesn't make enough contact with the glass to stick on it. Is it possible perhaps to make a good zoom on the printhead while it moves on and starts printing? In any case, you may simply pull up the glass plate a bit towards the nozzle when it tries to print, and see what happens. If, all the sudden, the plastic starts to stick, then the theory is correct, and you will need to turn up the three leveling screws till the point the plastic sticks to the plate properly, without you having to pull it. BTW, I clean the plate before every print, otherwise the PLA doesn't stick well indeed.

Hi donnyfl, There were countless times the very same failure happen to me. Nowadays, it's a matter of 3 minutes to fix that. I echo yellowshark - the PLA doesn't need anything hotter than 60C. In your place, I would re-calibrate the bed and clean it up dry. My favorite - some cheap display cleaner wiped with soft cloth until the glass is pristine clear and clean. Then, the PLA sticks to the glass.

Blizz - that is lovely! Why would you need infill on those robots? Now to my latest prints - was trying the Colorfabb Bronzefill for the first time. Lovely stuff in general, I need to get to know how to post-process it. Tried to print my wife's sculpture, made from 123D Catch photos. Tried to polish it with my Dremel equipped with soft polishind disk. In general, it worked well. How do I get rid of the dark recessed areas? They are hard to reach with anything.

The top-right stretchlet got a very natural furry-cute look. What filament did you use for it?

My feline army, led by the General Ultimaker:

What filament do you use? It might be that the temperature is too cold for this printing speed From Marvin pic it looks like the bed might not be very well adjusted. BTW - did you try to print the extrusion test?

Not sure if it fits but ABS generally prints matte. Could that help?

Well, the title says it all. What glue can be used with the ninjaflex? Up until now, the standard superglue worked perfectly for PLA, but it seems like it can't do much with the ninjaflex. Any ideas?

Bonjour fxmouton, Did you change the material settings on the printer to PLA? The PLA pops because at 260C, it is too hot for it, so it literally boils which can lead to blockages in the printhead due to burnt plastic residue. I would check the settings and just in case, clean the nozzle. Cheers

Our town's Facebook group (Modiin) is holding a contest for the most honest cafe, providing the best meal for the least price. So I printed a 1st place prize for the winner. The coin says "1st place in Modiin is dear/expensive for me challenge". On the chest, there is our FB group's logo. Who said that UM2 cannot print in multiple colors?

..and if the thread is not enough, use 3DHubs.com.

Thanks! If you have used it and can recommend it, I'll give it a try. Cheers!

Had exactly the same problem, solved by the kind advise of Chrii. As he stated above - put a piece of cardboard on the glass, this will do the trick.

Thanks 3Dmaker4U! Will definitely check them. Would you mind to elaborate a bit, perhaps? Did you use their ABS, what kind, etc. :-)

What ABS source would you recommend in Europe? Not Colorfabb XT, just plain ABS.

May I suggest two more features to the list? Easy. Add Cartesian coordinates to the printbed. It will make the positioning much better when printing embedded texts or pictures, for example. The colored squares are already there, so it shouldn't be that much, should it? Maybe, more complicated one. Add a checkbox to allow Cura automatically thicken walls that are thinner than 0.4mm to the minimum of 0.4mm. This would prevent accidental holes in the models and will save a lot of re-design work where this work is possible at all. For me, both of the features would be very helpful. What do you think?

Made 49 photos of my wife, converted with 123D and printed. Well, that's the quality...

Well, even much cheaper Mojo prints with two materials. So yes, it is not impossible. However, for the RepRap-based designs I'm yet to see a consistent, reliable solution.

Aye. Without a doubt. Higher temperature may negate some of the quality issues but it has problems of its own. In any case, 220C for UM White should be OK. Just make sure you've cleaned the nozzle after this cheap Chinese junk.

What Didier said. Just to get to the root cause, try to increase the temperature and print slower - even 30-40mm/sec. If that goes well - the print head might need some cleaning - look for the "Atomic Method" to clean the head. Actually, performing it never hurts anyway.