anon4321

you need to rebuild the firmware. See pins.h

No picture was attached. Please upload one. Check that the fan underneath the printer is running.

I went with the full misumi solution, rods, bushings (25mm) and couplers. I also switched to direct drive and GT2 belts plus the twisterblocks. Everything is very smooth and positioning seems very precise. Oh and I updated to the UM heated bed kit.

There are solutions for this using cheap single board computers like a raspberry pi http://octoprint.org/ it even supports video via webcams

Jonny, Did you ever install the LTBC rods? The coating on the ones I'm using is slowly wearing off. Have you experienced the same? Should I care?

Where are you located? UM has expanded their distributors and most have the bed upgrade in stock. Brought one from MakerShed and it was shipped the next business day. http://www.makershed.com/products/ultimaker-original-heated-bed-upgrade-kit Awesome upgrade BTW....

For future reference, if you rename/remove current_profile.ini in the Cura directory under the Cura installation directory, Cura will regenerate it with the original start/end gcode. On my system. this file is: C:Program Files (x86)Cura_14.07Curacurrent_profile.ini NOTE THAT THIS RESETS ALL YOUR SETTINGS TOO.

Since you aren't cutting new threads just chasing the existing ones, you don't need a top quality set. You only need a 6mm tap and die, the t-handle and the die holder. Check auto parts stores, they might have them. Just be sure you get the right size, 6mm per the nozzle doc. You might be tempted to not buy the t-handle and the die holder but they are important to getting the threads started square.

You can get parts from UM. They aren't particularly cheap and when you add shipping and waiting, it's a PITA. I think the constant heating and cooling of the block and related components makes them soft or slightly distorted. Add in the fact that the threads will most likely have PLA in them and cross threading them is a likely occurrence. I had a similar issue when I broke down the entire thing and couldn't get the isolator tube threaded back into the PEEK part straight regardless how much I tried. I even boogered the part of the tube that threads into the alu block using pliers to steady the part while trying to get it to thread back in straight. Of course those parts were backordered (and might be still be BO'ed). Since you are hard pressed to do any more damage, I suggest you go to Home Depot or similar store and get something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Metric-Tap-and-Die-Set-17-Piece-DWA1450/204787392 I think the 5 or 6mm tap and die was the one that cleaned up the tube and PEEK insulator. If you haven't used a tap or die, google around. In the case of existing threads, if you can, start the tap on the reverse side and it should start pretty easily. Be careful since it will very easily cut a new set of threads making the situation worse. When it starts cutting/fixing and you feel resistance, go a quarter turn into the resistance and then a half turn back. This breaks up what is being cut in the hole. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK THE TAP. Then use the same size die on the nozzle threads being careful to start perfectly perpendicular and into the existing threads such that you aren't cutting new threads. Do the same thing, 1/4 into the resistance and then 1/2 back. It is unlikely you will break the die. This says it's a 6MM thread: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal/blob/master/1054_Nozzle_0.4mm/B1054-A2P-A.PDF?raw=true If you can't make the existing parts work, you need to determine what you need to replace ... If you had to completely rebuild the filament path in the extruder, you would need these parts: https://www.ultimaker.com/products/nozzle https://www.ultimaker.com/products/peek-isolator https://www.ultimaker.com/products/isolator-tube https://www.ultimaker.com/products/heater-block https://www.ultimaker.com/products/isolator-coupler In my experience, either the heater or temp sensor will stick in the alu block so - https://www.ultimaker.com/products/heater-cartridge https://www.ultimaker.com/products/thermocouple-sensor

Yes, give it a go.

Remove the nozzle from the alu block. Reverse out the filament. Cut a clean end to the filament on an angle and feed it back in without the nozzle in place and with the head cool. Ensure that the filament feeds easily without the nozzle. It should come all the way out. If it does, there is no reason why it shouldn't extrude assuming your temp sensor is reading accurately If it doesn't then something above the alu block is messed up. This could be the PEEK insulator or the Teflon coupler or even possibly the tube is crammed too hard into the telflon coupler that the end of the tube is pinched. You can see the parts here on page 46: https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/240/original/Ultimaker_Original_assembly_manual_v1.1.pdf One way to get the bowden tube out is to remove the nuts holding the fan on then loosen the four large screws about 3/16th of an inch pulling the alu plate down. This reduces the preload on the tube. Remove the clip and push down on the retainer. While keeping pressure on the retainer, pull the tube out. Reversing this process, preloads the bowden tube so that it is pushing back on the retainer looking it in place.. See the instructions above. BTW the melted filament in the nozzle is normal. The one with the burnt filament might be saved by super heating it over a gas burner or blowtorch. Be careful with a torch, I've only down this with a gas stove and I don't think it can get brass hot enough to melt. The filament, particularly if it is PLA will burn out. The nozzle will become black but keep heating it and all the crap will burn off and you will end up with a dull brass finish When held up to a bright light, you should be able to see through the .4mm hole.

Cool didn't know they had them. I'm going to order one too!

Sounds more and more like a partially clogged nozzle. Get the printer up to temperature and unlatch the pressure arm and see how much pressure it takes to extrude... Also check out the atomic cleaning method which is basically allowing the filament to cool down to near glass temperature and then pulling it back out. https://www.google.com/webhp?#q=site:umforum.ultimaker.com+atomic+cleaning+method Also note that proper leveling is critical to prevent grinding on the first layer. Too little distance from the nozzle to the bed will prevent extruding and build up pressure until the feeder can't feed any more filament.

Oh and one last thing. Sometimes depending on the material, one of the factors above was temporary such as temp and speed but it caused grinding. This causes the knurled bolt to be packed with ground material which made additional grinding/slippage more likely at only slightly too cold or slightly too fast printing.

I've found the UMO feeder to be fairly reliable. If you are getting chewing, it could be due to a few reasons: Printing too cold Printing too fast Printing too cold and fast. Filament might be too large. Measure with calipers, needs to be 2.85 or thereabouts. If it is more than 3mm, it can jam. Measure it at different spots as well as at different angles around the filament in case the filament is oval. Nozzle could be partially clogged. The plastic insulating elements in the nozzle are deformed from too much heat. The feeder pressure is too high squishing the filament into more of an oval and the oval shape at it's widest part is wider than 3mm. If the feeder pressure is too low. In my experience, it has been too cold or too fast or both and occasionally it has been a clogged nozzle.

The MakerBot video was painful to watch... Basically, it sounds like an awesome printer if it ... you know... printed. On bit of feedback to UM is you guys have to get your customer support to the same quality of your printers. It's very damaging to your brand and product.

The UM kit is expensive but your should consider it. First, it's more ridged than the plywood bed apparently by a good bit. This means leveling is more consistent. Second, as long as you don't have a dual extruder set up , it only requires one power supply which is included in the kit. Thirdly, it converts the printer to 3 point leveling, Finally, it is supported in the official firmware from UM. I don't own it. I have one of HK's beds. However, I'm seriously considering converting the the UM kit while possibly using HK's bed (it uses more power and therefore heats faster but that means I need to keep the second PS).

Yeah, I wish you had access to do this to a UM1. I'd send you money as soon as possible. I wish I had access to a mill.

Did you have to do any machining on the bearing holders?

That is very cool. You are obviously experienced at foundry work. However, for others interested in foundry stuff, I found this guy on youtube that is a former metal shop teacher. He does a lot of machining but also foundry work. He's has a lot of lathes and mills in his workshop. He has a series on casting a small steam engine. I believe in later videos, he does the machining for the steam engine. Here is part one, you can find the other parts on his channel:

Did you upgrade with the UM made heated bed or a custom self built one? I believe the firmware you mentioned in git is for the UM made bed which comes with a different Z stepper and screw. If you build a custom heated bed than you should know two things... The mm per steps is 200 * 8 / 3 because the UM original without the bed upgrade has a screw with a 3 mm pitch, a stepper with 200 steps per rev and it is run in 8 microstepping mode. The second is that the UM made bed uses a PT100 temp sensor which your bed probably doesn't use. Flashing the UM firmware for the UM made bed onto a printer with a custom built bed and a different temp sensor causes problems in the firmware with MAXTEMP or MINTEMP errors and may make updating the firmware difficult.

Cool, did you cast it yourself? Like with sand and a furnace? Actually, the UM2 bed is considered to be pretty good. In fact, the UMO bed upgrade kit is very similar to the UM2 bed and is considered to be a worthy upgrade. And when you say glued together, I assume you mean the pattern and not the bed itself.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Print-yourself-with-a-Kinect/

The one thing missing from DSM is loft or blending. That's actually the reason why I purchased MOI 3D. If you are unfamiliar with those terms, it the process by which you draw 2D shapes and blend between them.

For your organic stuff, check out MOI 3d. they have a 30 day trial and it costs I think about $400 US you can do mechanical things in it too but its more oriented towards organic models. Also check out DesignSpark Mechanical for mechanical things.