anon4321

Also, when you say solid, do you mean 100% infill, truly a solid block of plastic? You mentioned strength so I'm sure it is a concern. However, there is diminishing returns with dense infill. Depending on how you use the part, you might reduce print time by going with say 30-40% infill and increasing the wall thickness to 1.2mm, 1.6 or 2mm (make the thickness a multiple of the nozzle size which is 0.4mm). Even though the default 20% sounds low, you would be surprised by the strength of a part that is 80% hollow.

Tommyph, I think to make the changes by hand, get the source from: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin/archive/Marlin_v1.zip Find this line in Configuration.h and make sure the value is 1 for the #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1 If you have an SSR, you can enable PID mode for the bed by uncommenting this line (remove the leading //: //#define PIDTEMPBED Then you will need to use autotune to get a better set of PID parameters for the bed. Go into Cura, go to File -> Preferences and change the Printing window type to Pronterface UI and click OK. Now go to File-> Print. In the text box on the lower right, you can enter GCODE which is sent directly to the printer. Enter this command exactly as shown: M303 E-1 S70 C8 (change the value of S70 to be the temperature at which you will normally use the bed. S70 is 70C S60 would be 60C etc). The printer will heat the bed up to the selected temperature and then run through 8 cycles (the C8 parameter). Once the cycles are done, it will output a line saying something like use the last reported values. Do this by changing the P I and D values to the following command to those reported: M304 P1 I2 D3 Finally save the firmware settings by issuing: M500 or you can "burn" them in the firmware by editing Configuration.h and finding and changing these lines (the ones that start with #define DEFAULT_ ignore the ones with begin with //): #ifdef PIDTEMPBED //120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+) //from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, aggressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10) #define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00 #define DEFAULT_bedKi .023 #define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4 //120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+) //from pidautotune // #define DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1 // #define DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41 // #define DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16 // FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles. #endif // PIDTEMPBED Now when the bed reaches the set temperature, the PID mode will quickly pulse the power to the bed like 5 times a second and the temperature will be maintained very accurately. Make sure that you reconfigure Cura so that it allows you to control the bed by going to the Machine -> Machine Settings and checking the Heated Bed item. This will not only enable an input for the bed temp, but the Pronterface UI in the printing dialog will also graph the bed temperature. in addition to the nozzle temp. More info on PID autotune here: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

Tommyph, regarding the ulticontroller, try swapping the cables. where they connect to the controller shield. If that doesn't work, you might have not selected something correctly in Marlin Builder. To get back to a known working condition, flash the Ultimaker supplied firmware using the second method but selecting MarlinUltimaker-250000.hex in the resourcesfirmware subdirectory of the Cura installation directory. This will disable the heated bed but you can run through the instructions again or examine the config files in detail and hand edit. With this known good firmware, you should be able to get the controller working again but you might need to try the cables in both possible combinations. Having hacked the crap out of my printer and misconnecting these cables way too many times, I finally marked which cable goes in which socket. Regarding how I did it, yes, I tweaked the config files and uploaded via the Arduino IDE. I would just tell you the changes to make but I have merged upstream Marlin changes, have a lot of other customizations in it for a Z probe and I'm using a SSR running the bed in non bang-bang mode (which won't work with a normal mechanical relay)..

If I was correct in my last post, you should look into: http://ncplot.com/stickfont/stickfont.htm%20and%20the%20very%20last%20font%20on%20the%20page.

If I understand, this is what you DO NOT want correct? Because 1, it's not cursive and 2, it is "thick" even though it is an outline (even if it isn't filled) correct? You want the equivalent of taking a pen and writing in cursive but using a single pass of the print head in place of the pen, correct?

If I understand your question, you want to print cursive letters using only a single pass of the nozzle so the "stroke" is .4mm. Is that correct? Unless Daid has a utility to do this, one way to do it is to use any of the free engraving software (google text to gcode).. However, it isn't a complete solution. They generate gcode for 3 axis engravers or milling machines. 3D printers are actually 4 axes, the normal X, Y and Z of an engrave/mill plus E for the extruder material feed. Note this only works for one layer. So let's say you used one of the text to gcode utilities for an engraver/mill, you would set the Z to be the thickness of the layer say .1mm. The gcode would would have all the moves for the X, Y and Z. However, the E value would be missing. So you would a second process that reads the GCODE and calculates the amount of material to feed for the move and add it to the moves as the E value. You could probably do it in excel. What type of printer? UM1 or UM2 or other?

Tommyph, we are discussing this problem on another thread. See my post and the couple posted before it to ensure you have the same problem. If so, try what I describe: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6008-ultimaker-dead-after-installing-heated-bed/?p=70324

Add some more photos of the wires where they change colors and where you have added junctions. I have the same heated bed. The two sensor wires on the connector on the bed are the middle pair but the colors of the wires on my bed are completely different. Make sure the two center wires are what you have connected to the two outer pins on the sensor input. For now, you should disconnect power to the bed and the lines to the relay until you get the temperature reading correctly. When you power the printer on, the bed should read around room temp / 21C. EDIT: Resistors aren't polarized so they can be connected in either direction. The resistor looks correct. Also, I looked closer at the wring from the heated bed output to the relay and it looks correct. The control side of the relay is polarized and the way you have it connected is correct. Does the LED on the relay light up when you try to preheat the bed?

OK, it is going to get a little technical here. I have only had success in recovering from the worng firmware flash by removing the Arduino from the printer. Let's make sure you have the right source. Download this zip file: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin/archive/Marlin_v1.zip and extract the Marlin-Marlin_v1 directory from it. Make sure you have the latest version of the Arduino IDE (I have 1.0.5 and I think 1.0.6 is out, either will work). Get it from here if needed: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Start the Arduino IDE and go to the file menu and click open. Find where you extracted the Marlin-Marlin_v1 directory above and go into the Marlin directory. In the Marlin directory, select Marlin.pde This will open a new window for the pde. You can close the original window (not sure why it does that). Go to the Tools menu, select Board and choose the "Arduino Mega 2560 or Mega ADK" item. On the same Tools menu, go to Serial Port and select the serial to which your printer is connected. Now go to the Sketch menu and click Verify / Compile. You should get a message like: Binary sketch size: 109,480 bytes (of a 258,048 byte maximum) Now go to the File menu and choose Upload. It will recompile again and flash the firmware to the printer. Now reinstall the Arduino into the printer and make sure it is working. So now we need to get your bed working. Go to MarlinBuilder and select all the options required. I didn't use this so it is up to you to determine what options and values should be used. However, it seems like you should select Basic Ultimaker + heated bed (100k relay) + Ulticontroller and click build it. Now download these files to give you two options.... Configuration.h Configuration_adv.h HEX File So use ONE of the following options to get the firmware onto the printer. 1. This is the hardest way but it makes sure your firmware is the latest. MarlinBuilder may not have the latest source. Make sure the Arduino IDE is closed. Copy Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h you downloaded from Marlin Builder to the Marlin directory in the Marlin-Marlin_v1 directory you extracted above. This should OVERWRITE the two files of the same name. Open the Arduino IDE as described above and perform the Verify. You will get an error. The files from MarlinBuilder are a little out-of-date and the version string isn't complete. When the error occurs, the IDE will highlight the line. It should be the first one below: lcd_implementation_draw_line(1, PSTR(VERSION_BASE)); lcd_implementation_draw_line(2, PSTR(VERSION_PROFILE)); Comment these lines by placing a slash slash in front like: //lcd_implementation_draw_line(1, PSTR(VERSION_BASE)); //lcd_implementation_draw_line(2, PSTR(VERSION_PROFILE)); Now it should verify without error. Continue to upload as described above. 2. This is the easy way but the firmware produced by MarlinBuilder might be out of date. Install the latest version of Cura and run it or if you have it install already, run it and go to the Expert menu and select Run first run wizard. In the first run wizard select Ultimaker Original then make sure extruder drive upgrade is checked AND check the Heated printer bed (self built). HOWEVER, skip the firmware upgrade. And skip the checks and just click finish in the bed leveling wizard. Now in Cura with the printer connected, go to the Machine menu and select Install custom firmware.... do NOT install the default firmware. Select the hex file you downloaded from Marlin Builder. Good luck.

Sander, Daid posted in another thread that 1.5.4 and up work. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7445-ultimaker-original-heated-bed-upgrade/?p=69555

Ahhhh was that a closed chamber upgrade I saw in the first video? Weird though that it looked like something closes on top of the printer.... how does that work with a bowden? Or is the upgrade an on head extruder + chamber?!?!!? Discuss...

Not in the US but... http://www.ebay.com/itm/161314219856

I find that cat and dog hair strengthen the print like the fiberglass in resin... when it doesn't jam the nozzle... which it always does... :-P

I would wait to see what UM annouces in the next two weeks or so. However, I purchased this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123 but I'm not sure Jason is selling them any longer. He is on here has Jason_HK

I think you will find the PLA sticks well to glass around that 60C temp (70C for me, maybe my sensor reads high) without any additional help like glue. However, if it doesn't, I've found hairspray works almost too well and is less messy if you remove the glass and dust it with the hairspray OFF the printer. You might want to consider Colorfabb XT in place of ABS. Seems like ABS really requires a heated chamber for all but the smallest prints. However, this is only what I have read as I haven't tried it yet (ABS). XT is very ABS like although I suspect it is a little less brittle. XT prints easily. However, on glass, I've found that hairspray is required to get the part to stick well. I was having some success without hairspray at 72C or a little higher but hairspray really sticks it to the point that you might not need a heated bed.

He might not be selling them any longer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

To answer your other questions, another manufacturer of these (this one looks almost as if they rebranded his) recommends printing on Kapton to help protect the bed surface from damage should the nozzle jam into it. As for PLA, I think the general recommendation is 60C. I find 70C better but I print on borosilicate glass (recommend you get some). Start with 60 and go higher if the part doesn't stick or lower if it sticks but you notice the edges near the bed bow in.

It's not cheap but you could use an encoder such as the one below. You just need some friction drive and a pinch roller on the filament. It produces 1024 pulses per rotation. If you made a wheel with some friction material around it that in total was 20 mm in diameter, each pulse would represent about .06mm of material feed. Because it is quadrature, it will tell you what direction the material is moving. Probably a very good way of detecting out-of-filament or a jam. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11102 If you were really tricky, you could have a second arduino monitor the step and direction pins of the E driver and use the output from the encoder to detect when the material stops feeding for whatever reason....

As I mentioned, I too use Moi3D. It is pretty easy to use. My only issue is that specifying dimensions during operations seem to be lower priority than "point and click". I think this is do to the focus on creative/organic modeling and not mechanical modeling. However, it can be done and it does support the functionality required for 3D CAD.

May I ask: - What version of E3D? V6? - What mount did you use? - Assuming you used the UMO's block, heater and temp sensor, what fan duct are you using? - What material do you typically print? - What are your retract settings?

You can see the voltage points at the bottom of this image to the left. Carefully measure between 5V and GND and VIN which comes off the 12V regulator and GND.

The shield has a 12V regulator on it. The 12V is fed to the Arduino and the Arduino passes it through a 5V regulator which is passed back up to the ulticontroller and the drivers. Your printer is acting like the 5V supply is overloaded. Note that when the USB is plugged in, it adds additional 5V power which might be why you see the behavior change. Two things it might be: the ulticontroller is bad and shorting something or one of the regulators is bad causing the 5V line to sag. The ulticontroller draws a lot from the 5V line. Unless you have another printer to which you can connect the controller to test it, you should get a meter and check the 5V line with and without the controller connected.

Those are the numbers I find work well. Some say cooler on the bed like 60. One of the mods here did adhesion tests are various temps and concluded that 60 was ideal. I found 70 works better for me. Maybe my bed runs cooler than reported.

I'm going from memory here but it is actually the reverse. Any true homing of the Z axis will erase the leveling information with "true" meaning something like the G28 command. If you want to "virtually" home the printer, you need to use a move command like G1 Z0 to preserve the leveling data. This also means you need to change the start/end gcode so that it doesn't perform a G28 on the z axis. Also note that I *believe* that if the stepper drivers are put to sleep do to idle timeout, the leveling information is reset. Look through the firmware source for the vector used and find the places it is reset. So the start sequence before you print should always be: temp related codes, make sure the codes are such that the printer waits for the set temperature. G28 G29 then G1s for the actual printing. Using this sequence, you should find that the starting distance to the bed should be pretty consistent. However, if it is too high or too low, you can adjust the offset between the probe and nozzle either by adjusting the values in the firmware, or if you have the ulticontroller there will be a subitem under the tune menu (I believe) that lets you change the Z offset. The M206 MAY also work for this but I've never tried it.

MOI 3D, It's OK and relatively cheap ($300US), better for organic models. Otherwise, the free version of DesignSpark Mechanical. On the plus side, it's free and is good for more mechanical designs. However, it is missing some things like loft/blend, you need to use a hack to edit STEP files and it will sometimes refuse to do things like make or remove rounds/bevels.... http://moi3d.com/ http://www.rs-online.com/designspark/electronics/eng/page/mechanical