anon4321

Do you develop software for a living? If you do in any commercial setting, you will know that often due to time and money, good enough is all you get to do.... Very often, it is difficult to add multithreading to existing code without refactoring it first. From the point of view of management, this is wasted time and money because it isn't adding features. If you say because it will make it faster, the response will be is it too slow to be usable now? If you honestly answer no, you won't be given the time to do what management sees as adding no value. Daid is reportedly working on something he calls Pink Unicorn which sounds like a complete rewrite of at least the Cura UI. I don't know if the slicer is being rewritten. There is a git branch named PinkUnicorn but I don't know if that is just changes to the interface to the new UI or if more of the core processing is being rewritten. He has recently been pulled to work on something else that I think isn't even software related. So people aren't dismissing multithreading arbitrarily. It's just the practical reality of commercial development that you don't always get to do what you want. Are you aware that the slicer is open source? If you want to tackle multithreading, the source is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine

The pitch is different. On page 33 of the instructions, you are given steps to update the firmware. Did you do those? I believe the new firmware will have the correct steps/mm for the new Z screw. Just make sure you select the Heated Bed (kit) when indicating what upgraded parts you have. https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/199/original/Heated_Bed_upgrade_kit_Assembly_Manual.pdf

See this post: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7728-marlin-firmware-update-went-wrong-now-no-connection-possible/?p=73100

George, sorry about the name mix up. Right Simon = Illuminarti = fbrc8.com Thanks for the printing info. I'll give it a try Unfortunately, the part will be about 125mm across so we will see how the adhesion goes. Have you tried hairspray on glass? That worked well for XT My self built bed is 240W so should be able to get to 100C without probems. I'll let you know how it works out.

Hey gr5, I'm thinking of getting some PA6 from George. Are there any special requirements? What temperature is it printed at? Speed? Layer thickness? Does it need something more than a heated bed to stick? What bed temperature should be used? I have a UM1 with self built heated bed.

Thanks for the feedback. IRobertI, it's funny that I overlook the simplest things!! I actually printed a smaller test version. I'll heat some PLA with boiling water and see what happens!

A friend asked me to print this peristaltic pump. http://tim.cexx.org/?p=1282 It's a pretty ingenious design. However, he wants to use it during brewing beer to circulate the wort. I don't know much about brewing but I do know the wort is heated and/or boiled. So the question is if we assume the wort is nearly 100c as it goes through the silicone tubing, will the PLA deform? Or more specifically, what physically happens to PLA at temps above (but near) the glass temperature? Certainly, in my experience, PLA needs to be at 170C before you can pull it out of the nozzle and like 180-190C before you can extrude it. So is Tg when the part will become soft? And how soft are Tg plus about 30C? If PLA isn't going to work, how about XT? Or ABS?

post models here youmagine.com

Wow, I've never seen so many bricked Arduinos If none of the stuff I suggested worked, I think you need a new Arduino. Very strange because I've never see a firmware update do this... Did you guys hook up the bed before flashing? Or after? Or more specifically, was the Arduino working after the bed was installed and connected? I wonder if the bed is frying the Arduinos some how.... Sorry I couldn't help. Hope you get it straightened out. The 2560 isn't terribly expensive, might be quicker to buy one elsewhere: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Arduino%20Mega%202560&sprefix=Ardui%2Caps Good luck.

Sorry see the expert settings on the expert menu. Based on the tip that pops up, spiralize might work for you.

OK so this is what I'm talking about.... I'm really not an expert so keep that in mind. That isn't "introduce(d) geometry". It's a vertical seam and possibly another issue that makes it worse such as an (over) extrusion issue that makes it worse. Wait until some others have a look at it. I think that the latest version of Cura has a new method if changing the starting position of the next layer so the seam is less noticeable. But don't quote me on that... Are you using 14.09? Also, is spiralize appropriate for this? (I'm not really sure what that does). See the advanced settings.

I think a lot of people would disagree. In fact, Cura is used by a lot of people that don't even have a UM made printer. I suggest you be more constructive and upload the model to a site like youmagine, detail your settings and ask if something can be done to fix the issues you see. There are a lot of people that know Cura and it's slicer inside and out and will probably be able to address your problem(s).

It's very usual for a firmware flash to leave the Arduino completely unusable. Two things to try: - Press and release the reset button while the timeout messages are being displayed in the IDE. - use a serial terminal program to connect to the Arduino trying these baud rates 57600, 115200 and 250000 again pressing and releasing the RESET. (8 data/one stop, no parity). Also, make sure the connection to the Arduino is as direct as possible, no hubs etc.... Just for your own information, they way the Arduino works is when the IDE wants to reflash the firmware, the programmer pulls DTR low. This causes the Arduino to reset. Upon reset, the Arduino runs it bootloader that briefly listens for commands to upload the firmware. If, in that brief time, the bootloader doesn't see commands to update the firmware, it jumps to the application part of the firmware. The bootloader code is protected to prevent it from being overwritten and "bricking" the Arduino. It can be updated by your need to do special things to do so. The short of it is that a normal firmware update doesn't usually kill the Arduino even if the application code locks up due to a bad condition (like Marlin will do if a bad TEMP is detected). When the Arduino is in the printer, something interferes with the reset sequence. Additionally, Cura seems to use a different timing for updating the printer. I never figured out either. Anyway, you really should be able to reflash with the IDE unless you electrically "smoked" the Arduino through a bad connection. Any lights blinking on the Arduino? Anything showing through a serial terminal?

Arlee, were you able to flash via the Arduino IDE but still not be able to connect via Cura?

From - http://arduino.cc/en/guide/macOSX: Select the serial device of the Arduino board from the Tools > Serial Port menu. On the Mac, this should be something with /dev/tty.usbmodem (for the Uno or Mega 2560) or /dev/tty.usbserial (for older boards) in it.

Did you try this? ... "you will need to flash through the Arduino IDE. If you have to fall back to the Arduino IDE, follow this information: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6008-ultimaker-dead-after-installing-heated-bed/?p=70324 to build the basic firmware. NOTE however you don't need to rebuild the firmware for the bed so stop before that point. Once you reinstall the Arduino in the printer and the basic firmware is running, you should be able to use Cura to flash the correct firmware noted above. Good luck."

I'm definitely not an expert and only have a UM1 but to me it looks like the circles aren't touching and that indicates a problem. When cooled, the print should be on piece and not come about into threads easily. I would do the test and let the print cool then carefully remove it. Then measure it's thickness with calipers. It should be the same as the layer height in the script. If the thickness is too high, twist the bed screws such that the bed moves up towards the nozzle and retest. If the thickness is about the same as the layer height then you have under-extrusion. With the calipers, measure the width of the filament in various locations and orientations (rotate the calipers around the filament) and average the results. Then set that average as the filament diameter in the printer and retest. If the current setting is about the same as what you measured, you'll need to wait for others to help as you have an issue with the feeder or nozzle which are too different from the UM1 for me to help. If that is the case, I suggest you start a new thread.

See the utility in this thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5951-calibration-utility-leveling-ringsgcode/ It generates gcode that prints rings for leveling the build platform and should help you understand how the E value is calculated.

Hmmm, both the M108 and M101 are probably not appropriate for the UM2. Disclaimer: I have a UM1 so my info could be wrong. I believe the E values on the UM2 in ultigcode are in mm3. this makes it easier to calculate than the UM1 as the printer firmware adjusts the feed rate based in the filament size setting in the firmware. So to calculate the E value, you take the nozzle diameter and assume that will be the line width times the height of the layer times the line length. So for your first move from 0,0 to X0.025189008959740775 Y0.022321046299000193, the length value is square root of (delta X squared plus delta Y squared) or if my maths is right 0.03365583575334315261683035076938 times .4 for the nozzle times your layer height which looks to be 0.2mm from the above gcode or 0.002692

In my experience, you will need to remove the Arduino from the printer. Then try flashing through Cura. If that doesn't work, you will need to flash through the Arduino IDE. If you have to fall back to the Arduino IDE, follow this information: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6008-ultimaker-dead-after-installing-heated-bed/?p=70324%20to%20build%20the%20basic%20firmware.%20%C2%A0NOTE%20however%20you%20don to build the basic firmware. NOTE however you don't need to rebuild the firmware for the bed so stop before that point. Once you reinstall the Arduino in the printer and the basic firmware is running, you should be able to use Cura to flash the correct firmware noted above. Good luck.

Actually, most of the printer will run fine @ 24V. The three things that have problems with 24V are the regulator as you have discovered, the heater in the hotend and the 12V material cooling fan. Most likely the heater will be OK and you can even modify the firmware to limit the PWM to the heater so it isn't overloadde at the possible loss if power regulation resolution. The fan can easily be replaced with a 24V version like http://www.amazon.com/Brushless-Cooling-40x40x10mm-Sleeve-bearing-Skywalking/dp/B00BIZC6K8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412877186&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=Skywalking+4010+11+blade%C2%A0 (check the size, can't remember if the UM1 is using a 40mm or 50mm fan, skywalking makes both sizes in 12 and 24v).

In my experience, you will need to remove the Arduino from the printer. Then try flashing through Cura. If that doesn't work, you will need to flash through the Arduino IDE. If you have to fall back to the Arduino IDE, follow this information: <a data-ipb="nomediaparse" data-cke-saved-href="http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6008-ultimaker-dead-after-installing-heated-bed/?p=70324%20to%20build%20the%20basic%20firmware.%20%C2%A0NOTE%20however%20you%20don" href="http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6008-ultimaker-dead-after-installing-heated-bed/?p=70324%20to%20build%20the%20basic%20firmware.%20%C2%A0NOTE%20however%20you%20don" t%20need%20to%20rebuild%20the%20firmware%20for%20the%20bed%20so%20stop%20before%20that%20point.%20%c2%a0%20once%20you%20reinstall%20the%20arduino%20in%20the%20printer%20and%20the%20basic%20firmware%20is%20running,%20you%20should%20be%20able%20to%20use%20cura%20to%20flash%20the%20correct%20firmware%20noted%20above."="">http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6008-ultimaker-dead-after-installing-heated-bed/?p=70324 to build the basic firmware. NOTE however you don't need to rebuild the firmware for the bed so stop before that point. Once you reinstall the Arduino in the printer and the basic firmware is running, you should be able to use Cura to flash the correct firmware noted above. Good luck.

LOL, I accidentally reported my own post! Anyway, meant to add that the Pronterface UI also allows you to move the axes as well as feed material.

Go to File -> Preferences and change the printing window type to Pronterface. You can use the Pronterface UI to set the extruder and bed temp if so equipped.

To be honest, I've seen a lot fewer complaints about support of the past couple months. In the past, I've had my problems with UM support. I will tell you that I believe they will make things right whenever they can. They don't seem to be the type of company that would screw a customer out of money.... Anyway, send whatever information you have such as the exact amount and date/time to SanderVG using the personal messenger on these boards. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/423-sandervg/ He has helped me and others with a number of orders