anon4321

I think what they really should do is sort of abstract the speed in the gcode from the actual speed. The gcode should really contain a speed "level" or "type". The slicer would generate the type (for example, first layer extrude or first layer travel") and then the operator would set the speed appropriate for the printer and material in the firmware just like temperature and filament size. However, that would require more radical change than the filament size. For volumetric, the slicer just assumes a nominal filament size such that a feed of 1 represents 1 cubic mm. There is a magical filament width that produces this and I forget that value. (oh it's 1.1283791670955125738961589031215)

I believe that UltiGcode and the volumetric enhancements in Marlin were done to reduce the machine specifics in the gcode so that the gcode is "portable" to different machines and filaments. If you think about it, the volumetric versions of gcode just describe the object without respect to the machine. You can take the gcode to another machine using different size and type of filament and temperature. The only thing it doesn't address 100% is the movement speed as that is "baked in" to the gcode. While you can change the speed on the machine that doesn't give you complete control. You can vary the speed overall but you might want to have the first layer at one speed and the others at a faster speed which you might not be able achieve with a simple multiplier unless you actively dial in the speed.

Hmmm, those are some interesting ideas. Keep them coming! I have considered pins but going all the way through. That has the problem of ruining the smooth outside. But you got me thinking. Let say I take a small piece of metal and bend the ends up such that the "ears" are a little wider than the track width. Then, in a jig, I could place two parallel pieces of filament. Then heat the metal crossbar and press it into the jig (which would have an alignment pin in the center and a matching hole on the crossbar) such that the filament melts onto it. The ears could have a hole in them so some filament melts through forming a little rivet. Hmmm, would need to test that.... Need to get some small bearings...

I've also considered using a hot glue gun to melt a bit of filament to "weld" the rail to the cross bar/holder....

So I've become fascinated with model roller coasters and marble runs/coasters. CoasterDynamics makes some awesome sets. Or rather they did. Like this one: I would buy it if I could find it and if it wasn't like $500USD. I'm mean I'm fascinated but not that fascinated. So I was sitting there replacing some filament thinking if I could find some kind of round relatively hard but still flexible material for the tracks, I could print the rest and use small diameter PVC pipe for the larger parts of the structure. Twirling a piece of filament I broke off to to get a better end to the filament on the spool to feed into the printer, I kept thinking what could I use?!??!! Then it hit me, I could use pencils whittled down ... No WAIT !!!! The filament !!!! It's perfect! 2.85 PLA is hard but flexible and very consistent in diameter. The only problem is that looping coasters have wheels that run on at least 3 sides of the rail. This means the filament needs to be mounted as a rail using less than 90 degrees of the circumference I can't figure out a way to "clasp" the filament using < 90 degrees. Anyone have any ideas? Is there a way to "weld" PLA? Is there another way of mechanically attaching it? Glue?

Maybe this is well known but I've never seen it noted. As most know, when the COM port of a UMO is opened, the firmware resets which causes it to lose the current state. This resets things like the temp settings, position and other similar values. In my case, I have the leveling probe enabled in the firmware and a reset means that you need home and reprobe. This becomes a real pain if you abort a print because you forgot to set something like the fill, shell or just about anything. It turns out that you can leave the print window open, go back to the main window and change values and move things around and in my case generally screw things up ;-). Then wait until the progress bar completes indicating the GCODE has been regenerated. Then click print in the main window, either using the button in the UI or the file -> print option. Now clicking print in the print window will use the new GCODE all while remaining connected to the printer and avoiding the reset. Now the feature request: A simple popup when you click print in the print window that warns you that the GCODE you are printing doesn't match the recently generated GCODE. The popup could even had buttons to continue or use the new GCODE. This would help in the situation where you just switch back to the print window and not click print or use file->print in the main window.

Hey Herman, So if I understand the situation, you have a UMO to which you've added a custom heated bed (not purchased from Ultimaker) and when you upgraded to Cura 14.9, you also flashed the firmware that came with 14.9. If this is correct, it's the wrong firmware. To my knowledge, Cura does NOT come with firmware that supports anything other than the heated bed upgrade that comes from Ultimaker. The UM bed upgrade uses a different temp sensor for the bed (I believe it is a PT100). It is probably incompatible with what you probably have which most likely is a 100k thermistor. You should follow GR5's information on using http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ making sure you select the correct sensor for the bed and reflash with the firmware it generates. Good luck.

Never had layer problems. Maybe you need to print hotter? I think I usually use 245-250. However, that is with the uncolored stuff. The colored versions might have a different requirement.

As as someone mentioned, for bowden tubes, the measurements would need to be tracked for the length of the path between the sensor and the extruder. I think jams have ruined many more prints that changes in filament width. My filament width solution is to buy filament from a good supplier.

I think this would be of more value then the width measuring device.

Yes, those are 5V pins and can't sink/source a lot of current so you will need some kind of high capacity drive like a MOSFET / transistor depending on what you are driving like http://www.instructables.com/id/Connecting-a-12V-Relay-to-Arduino/

Strange that it does that. If I were you, I would look at using one of the unused I/O pins and manipulate it via M42 Just know that some pins are "protected". Typically, they are the ones in use.

I've also purchased from http://www.protoparadigm.com/ based on recommendations in other threads. No problem with the order and it printed well. If you need specialty stuff, ping Illuminarti http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/341-illuminarti/ He runs fbrc8.com and also works with UM as one of the US partners for assembling and shipping the printers to US customers.

Include a roll of XT in your order. Use some hairspray to get it to stick. Otherwise it prints like PLA but at a hotter temperature (try 245-250). Good for things that are exposed to more heat: http://www.printedsolid.com/shop/175-3/xt-amphora/

I don't understand. PrintedSolid IS located in DE (or NJ, I believe they shipped my order from NJ). The filament that was recommended was Colorfabb for which PrintedSolid is a US distributor of Colorfabb.... From their home page - PrintedSolid is a 3D Printing company based out of Newark, Delaware and http://www.printedsolid.com/colorfabb-3d-printing-filament-now-available-in-the-usa/ No problems when I ordered from them, shipping was quick.

LOL, just looked at my account and my order from Feb for the printer which I received many months ago says "Ready".

I wouldn't read much into the status the online system shows. Your printer could have been shipped. I had two orders that never went beyond "Ready" even though they have been completed.

XT sticks well with hairspray. I used AquaNet Professional Hairspray Extra Super Hold UPC: 67990-60011 In the humidity, my hair also stays in place ;-)

http://hackaday.com/2014/10/28/make-flexible-pcbs-with-your-3d-printer/

I would say three things matter. Filament diameter needs to be 2.85mm and good shops will note the actual size of their 3 mm filament. Second is the diameter needs to be consistent and good shops will spec it to you usually +- .05mm. Third is quality. Probably if you don't meet the first two the quality won't matter as it will jam. If you meet the first two, the third is subjective and depends on a lot lot temp, humidity what you are printing, how fast etc. filament from well known, respected sources will be more consistent. So iI would say yes it matters...

Didier has the most common causes. In rare cases, the extruder driver overheats and shuts down briefly. If that is the case, you either need better cooling for the driver or reduce the driver current.

See also DSM (better for mechanical shapes, free): http://www.rs-online.com/designspark/electronics/eng/page/mechanical Or MOI 3d (better for organic shapes, 30 day trial, about $400 US): http://moi3d.com/

You should also try twist the leads for the fan. Alternately, if you can find a large ceramic or otherwise non-polarized capacitor, soldering it across the fan output on the main board might help. I did this mod and it seem to help but haven't had time to look at the PWM on an o-scope to see if it changes the PWM rise/fall time. The cap in theory should slow the rise/fall time. The faster the rise/fall time, the high the frequencies generated and the more likely they will interfere with the tc amp.

Is the new platform rigid? Is the glass secure? Something is appears to be shifting during your print.

What extruder temperature are you using? Try a higher temperature and/or lower speed.