ultiarjan

think 14.09 is not an RC, and it's on the main cura downloadpage of the UM site .. just installed 14.09.1RC2 and also here the strange move to the inside http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7488-trick-cura-to-change-print-path/?p=70060%20)%20on%20a%200%25%20infill%20part%20is%20still%20there. on a 0% infill part is still there.

just checked the UM download page, there it is... so I just installed 14.09 and checked the same model again, the unneccesary move to the inside is still there .... when I clicked "check for update" in cura 14.07 It told me I had thre latest version...

just tried to update to 14.09 but cura tells me 14.07 is the latest version .... seems they took down 14.09 .... so I can't test the same model in 14.09.

It may be more then just Z-scar, looks like what I had here; http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7488-trick-cura-to-change-print-path/?p=70060 Anyhow, I like CURA a lot, even though it may not be 100% perfect ... but what software is?

I would advice not to use the standard feeder for this. When you pull the fillament out a long strand of plastics will often stay behind in your bowden, or worse you end up with bits of plastic in your feeder. It's (IMHO) way better to use a feeder you can open and clean ... here's some links .... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two https://www.youmagine.com/designs/and-another-um2-feeder-design

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2 Its the v6.rev1. I used xt. But others on this forum used pla apparently without problems...

I think you could have worse addictions

no worries, I'm glad you share your testing..... I'll be waiting patiently :-P anyhow I'm still in doubt between your idea (probably the easiest) and a full metal E3D (better at high temperatures). still trying to figure out if anybody has experience with Colorfabb XT and a full metal E3D.... I'll post the question in a XT thread...

I think it's nice to try to minimize the need for additional parts, but it seems like a good idea to just adapt this fan bracket to your needs. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2#!design-information just lower it 4.4 mm and make the hole for the nozzle a bit larger, as long as you'r using a single nozzle its a good idea anyhow (IMHO)... Any change you'll share the complete drawing, including the way you changed the setscrew so I can find a machineshop to make one for me?

can you change the settings on the pictures (public?) I can't open large versions.

net over een lengte van 1 meter gechecked helemaal ok, zo +/- 2.82 en ook goed rond.

Best solution is to avoid overhang by changing the orientation you print the object in. Rotate in cad or in cura. Think this is a good option in your case. Otherwise you need to use support... but this will always be a less nice surface...

Yes. I think it does. Did a before and after ultibot... with this fan setup the right ear was clearly better... this thing is more symmetrical. And its more silent. Had some vibration noise on the metal one.. could not realy get some screws fixed properly... but ill save it ofcourse incase we someday get a dual nozzle setup

Tried the same trick with colorfabb XT, at 250 celcius... disaster, the 140% flow was to much.... caused a big leak at the top of the heaterblock... took at least and hour to clean (burner) and rebuild. Think with XT a much higher temp is needed to get a waterproof bottom using a high flowrate. Tried later with homebrand (10 euro less vs UM/Colorfabb) PLA from "makerpoint.nl", worked perfect again. nice waterproof. This cheaper material is from a dutch producer and a bit softer than regular PLA, just like the colorfabb stuff.

TIP; Vandaag bij Makerpoint (makerpoint.nl) in Arnhem geweest, rol huismerk PLA gekocht om eens te proberen. Het materiaal is vergelijkbaar met dat van Colorfabb (iets zachter dan normaal PLA) en is van Nederlands fabrikaat. De spoelen waar het op zit zijn van hetzelfde merk als ook gebruikt bij het Ultimaker PLA rood.... Voor zover ik kan beoordelen na 2 prints is het goed spul, en zo'n 10 euro goedkoper dan colorfabb pla... wel een beperktere keus in kleuren ....

Not an gcode expert... but you can use spiralize from the expert settings in cura to get what you want.... maybe create some using this function .. check first in layer view if its what you want. Then you can also study the generated gcode created by cura..

Anders >> if you can get a few more produced (or a next version if you do some more testing) I like to try it myself (would pay for it ofcourse) I'm sure more people here like to get one ..... next question for me is how a setup like this compares vs. a full metal E3D ... is it true a full metal E3D gives more problems with PLA? Getting rid of the teflon would sure help with printing at temperatures required by colorfab XT... does anybody have experience with XT on a full metal E3D ?

Arhhggg it's to late... reading again... you made your own block... i'm interested...

Im trying to understand what you did. You put in a e3d. But kept the original teflon part and not an all metal e3d? Can you share a picture without the metal cover? Love to hear more of your result...agree the setscrew in the original block is a disaster... and love to be able to switch nozzles easy... did the heater and sensor fit or did you have to drill to size?

I found a way to also print the bottom waterproof .... just lower the wallthickness and increase the material flow. so when printing with a 0.6 nozzle, and walls of 1.4 mm, just set the wall to 1mm and overextrude using material flow. this test turned out very nice. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/vase-the-wall nozzle size & wall thickness 1mm, flow 140% Used UM PLA, speed 30, layer 0.2, temp 215, fan 40%, bed 60 celcius.

Yes. Very easy when you use a feeder you can open (like robert's, or my version). Just pull out the fillament when pausing and push the new fillament in...

if your UM2 is just 2 months I would raise a tiked at UM support, I would think they send you a new heater element or have some smart test to check your electronics ....

And this is probably helpfull: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

I would first check the cable connection of the heater cartridge. This is a direct cable without connectors to the electronics board. Take of the cover at the bottom, 2 bolts. Its 2 white cables, you'll see the marking on the board.

no idea if they a hiring.... but you can always try ... http://uk.linkedin.com/pub/paul-croft/1b/94b/b6b