ultiarjan

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two#!design-information

sounds strange to me, don't think its normal for z lift to move the nozzle inwards by 4 mm or so ... I think its a cura issue ??

Ha ha.... include PI and try again ....

Just tried how far I could take this Took a solid test file, print at 0 infill, 1 wall, 0.2 layer. Have a 0.6 nozzle mounted atm. First tried tricking cura into 1.2 mm nozzle & wall (note: if my math is correct 1.2 is 400% more volume than 0.6 ...) started at 30mm/s, turned up speed to 125% and 150% (>10mm3/s), extrusion is no problem at all, printed at 230c, which is to hot. The actual wall printed is around 1.2 mm, I call it a succes. Then tried 0.6 nozzle, tricked cura into 1.6 nozzle/wall, 25 mm/s speed. (8mm3/s) Started at 230 celcius, moved down to 215 c, extrusion was never a problem, lower temp shows better quality. Actual wall thickness printed was around 1.5 mm (so a bit less than the set 1.6) *** not related to this test, but cura created a small bulge at the point of the zseam, does this also at 0.6 nozzle setting, so unrelated to this test. Anybody an idea why ??

Voor mij is de cura tijd best een goede indicatie. Goed genoeg. De tijd op de printer zit er vaak erg naast maar dat maakt me eigenlijk niks uit...

thats strange.... did you check if the wings completed in cura/layer view ?

I use it for nozzle cleaning, using the 'atomic method'

Robert, again a very nice job !!! With some of the current available sources put toghether the needed info is getting more and more complete, it almost reads like a book Chapter1 > introduction https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/36/original/Ultimaker_2_User_Manual_V1.08.pdf chapter2 > printing http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7467-a-few-tips-for-getting-better-prints/?p=69766 chapter3 > troubleshooting http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6574-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide/?p=60739 chapter4 > maintenance & repair https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf addendum > alphabetical list of terminology explained TBD With regards to maintenance & repair it could be helpfull to have a few specific guides for stuff like cleaning the nozzle, replacing the teflon part etc... Would it be a good idea to pin a list like above to the "WELCOME" part of this forum ? A few remarks on the printing guide; - could be an idea to explain a bit more on removing the print from the glass (to leave it a bit longer for cooling after the machine tells you the cooling is done) -why do you (just like the user manual) tell people to use glue?, think you could mention that for many materials you can print perfect on just the clean glass.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/ this link has grown to about 40 pages now...., but you'll find all you need in it ... basically the best thing is to print yourself a better feeder ...

Ahh.ok i thought you had a leak at the top of the heatingblock....

arghh that seems like a big leak ... any idea what has caused it ?

BaasB > I think it looks fantastic! can you tell us a little more on you paint technique ?

First print slower... your settings: Layer 0.25 / speed 100 result in 0.25 x 0.4 × 100 = 10 mm3/s. This is to fast for a decent quality.(0.4 = um2 nozzle size) Try 0.1 layer and 50 speed... And always check layer view in cura before printing. Are the walls build in layer view? and to get a feel for speed, try printing this test; http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

I would advice to start with PLA, as it's the most easy and clean material to work with. Maybe later you can try Colorfabb XT. You don't need many special tools, just a decent set of torx screwdrivers (think you need at least a T5 and T8) for dismanteling the heating unit. For spare parts it's depending on how bad it is to not have your machine available... for normal use I would say just buy the "hot end pack" and maybe a few extra "PTFE couplers". If you really can't affort any downtime you'll have to buy 2 machines In general the printer is easy to take appart and maintain, it's a big plus for the Ultimaker compared to many other machines. and about the blue tape, you dont need it IMHO; http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7433-crazy-stuck/?p=69578

I never use anything on the heated glas, no glue, spray... nothing, print only PLA and XT. Key is to keep the glas clean. I wash every so many weeks with some hand soap under warm running water. In 99% of the time my prints pop of after the bed is cooled, but you need to wait a little longer after the printer tells you its ok to remove your stuff!! for XT sometimes even till cooled to 20 celcius. I use this thing for removing the small line printed at the beginning of a print, key is not to touch the glas with your hands ... almost never happens that I have to use it to remove a part. For very small parts the adhesion can be a problem, in this case I use a brim.

Im curious what you come up with.... let us know...

Did a little street photography in London the day after the 3d printshow ......

Blizz> always good to know who to contact when running out of spare parts

As you see the quality is specially lower on the rounded parts. Think the 0.6 is specially usefull for larger furniture parts or more functional parts .... but all in all not to bad... Printed with 0.6 nozzle, 0.2 layer, 50 speed (50x0.2x0.6 = 6mm3/s), while I would normally print high quality at 35x0.1x0.4=1.4mm3/s... And on top this was the last part of fillament on the reel, so very curved ... As a negative, if you need a certain infill to be able to create decent top layers, you'r waisting a lot more fillament with the 0.6 nozzle ....

sound like a smart plan to me ..... welcome !

Doing a test print now of a well known thingiverse elephant, scaled to 15 cm.. in my normal setting 0.1 > 15,5 hours, now 4,5 hours .... I'm curious how it will turn out...

real easy and fast (if you don't have to change the heater unit as i had to do). but ..... I think you can only do it a few times and throw away your nozzle, the setscrew is really easy to damage... this thing is just not made for regular changing....

I did it :-P Drilled my old UM2 nozzle to 0.6. First cleaned it out with a gasburner, then just put the nozzle in a workbench and drilled out by handheld dremel .... Very easy no problem at all, don't put any pressure, just let the dremel do the work (just seconds) and the inside shape of the nozzle will guide the drill to the centre ... Did no sanding or cleaning, just heated again with the gasburner and pushed some PLA through for cleaning of any metal parts .... Also had to replace my heating unit (broke the housing some time ago), this was a bit of a pain, getting the wire in the black sleeve again (I was smart enough to attach a wire to the old one before pulling out, and used the wire again for pulling in the new cable).. Unfortunately I don't think you can change the nozzle frequently, to be honest i'm really starting to dislike the design, specially the small setscrew in the nozzle is extremely easy damaged... First test is very good if you ask me ... Spiral cilinder, 0.6 wal, started at 3 mm3/s moving up to, 6, 9, 10.5, up to 12 mm3/s no problem with extrusion at all. And this at 210 celsius....

gr5/george > twitter: @gr5org

gr5 > Your research/feeder tweet made be curious ..... whats the news on this topic ? any news on an update for the UM2 feeder ? Besides this there seems to be little upexpected news ? just the heated bed for the original ?