ultiarjan

I don't even bother about the notifications in YouMagine anymore, just leave them in there, to much work deleting them...

keep in mind you don't want to use PLA for stuff you expose to the sun or other heat, it will deform easily ... I once made a car phone holder out of PLA.... It did not survive the first sunny day ...

Korneel, I agree with most of your mail, but the sparepart cost of a makerbot are a trilion times higher .... We should al be very happy that the UM2 is easy to maintain by ourself. I do think UM should indeed be more clear on the skills needed to keep the machine running over time... I have not tried it myself, and don't plan to but some stuff like the teflon parts are available for cheap on aliexpress.com/ ... I have no idea of the quality .....

Eta on my fuel3d is at best somewhere in november... but ill share my results when i get it.

You can also use 1 fibre of a metal anti rust brush from the diy shop.... and some people got acupuncture needles from ebay...

I like it ! really like the on-board video footage ..

I like the stats on thingiverse a lot, I also have 1 peak like that... On functionality youmagine is soooooo far behind. I also like to look at my statistics in terms of "conversion rate" some stuff gets looked at a lot, other stuff is downloaded relatively more... not that I ever do anything with it, just make stuff for myself ... Which of your designs was featured?

I would not mind "radical solutions" for my UM2 .... prefferably make the dual nozzles easy swappable ... I'll be happy to get rid of the block/nozzle combi.

Colorfabb PLA/PHA is good, I use it a lot. And you might want to try the colorfabb XT as an alternative for ABS (also better heat resistant).

************** BEND MEASUREMENTS (zoom in on diagram picture - the center picture with the checkerboard pattern under the part) should be made with the red line in diagram over the edge of a table or counter (use sharp edge table) and the blue arrow indicates where to measure vertical deflection ************** maybe I'm stupid ... but I don't see the pic with red line / blue arrow ....

ik maak het glas gewoon eens per paar weken schoon met warm water en zeep, wel zeer goed afspoelen en drogen... gebruik voor PLA en XT geen lijm, wel voor Bronzefill.

For indication I just measure the lenght of the compressed spring. I agree with the need for quick change, and on top an open design for easy cleaning is very handy (but maybe commercially not possible due to CE / Safety...) When I designed this one https://www.youmagine.com/designs/and-another-um2-feeder-design I also started with a small piece of tube at the bottom like you did, but decided to replace it by a hole with just a big opening at the bottom for less friction.. Using this feeder up to now without any problems, still happy with it..

I ordered one of these .... http://www.fuel-3d.com/

Electronics cooling?? There is no active cooling on the electronics of the um2...

Hi GR0101 (now your famous we all know you read binary :-P ) I Like the simplicity of your setup, I tried a test before which is to much hassle for others to join. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6117-diy-material-testing-machine/ Maybe we can standardise your bend/break test so anyone who feels like it can share his/her results here. If you share the test files & cura settings and maybe add a little bulge in the testpart design so we all clamp it at the same point. I like to test at least the following; Ultimaker PLA colorfabb PLA/PHA colorfabb XT colorfabb XT Color Think it would be good to print at a fixed speed, and something like 3 different printing temperatures per material. Maybe min/middle/max advised temperature of the supplier.

And depending on the source of the stl you can also kindly ask the designer to supply a step file.... you can always ask.

When you print 0,2mm layer - 80mm/s, it's 0,2 x 80 x 0.4 (nozzle) = 6.4 mm3/s. To get an idea how fast this is you can print this test; http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

Probably also depends on your quality of post-processing, if thats good you can just focus on minimizing overhang and don't care where the seems are. When I see stuf like this (pussykrew), I know there's a lot to learn on postprocessing this stuff is also printed in multiple parts. http://niochnioszki.net/xxx/index.php/sculptures/3dprints/

For pla & XT i print directly on heated glass, if its small stuff i use a brim. I do use glue for colorfabb bronzefill, tried a few times but could not get this to stick to clean glass.

he's talking about the flat part on the extrusion side of the nozzle, the area around the extrusion hole touching the model being made.

The bottom is not waterproof, the walls are, 1.4mm on a 0.6 nozzle is pushing it to much for this... lines are not 100% matching, but the sides are very good. The bottom leaking is easy solved with a little PVC glue on the inside. Maybe I'll try sanding my 0.6 nozzle a little to make the "shoulder" a bit wider.. I would also like to experiment more with even bigger nozzle sizes.... but the UM2 is just not very practical for swapping nozzles ....

answer already in the YouMagine comments ...

I Like to give Eriks design a try, what do I need in terms of software changes? what is the HEX file that comes with his files ?

Just did a big vase, 0.6 nozzle (drilled out UM2) cura set to 1.4 nozzle & wall. Spiralise. Real nice and fast result. Like the 1.4 mm walls in one go very much ! (actual size turned out to be around 1.3) Started a litlle to hot, but at 205c quality is real nice.

mailed you the file, it's just the simpelest basic shape .... solid from DSM, printed with no top/bottom, 0 infill.