Titus

Layer 10 and 11, with settings: 0.1mm layer height 0.8 shell 0.8 bot/top 15% infill printspeed 80mm/s temp 220 for first 4 layers, tweak at 4th layer to 200 brim(20 lines) 0.4 nozzle 45mm/s retraction over 4.5mm travel 200mm/s The rest is standard Dunno what is going on :?

@Sander My brims, as promised:

Wow, this set of items has the most freaky slicing I've ever seen. I've seen sub optimal slicing and some strange pathing, but this is next level. Back to the portecard file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274570/#files Just before the thin lines start, it goes freaky: I wonder if these files can be redesigned in such a way to prevent all of this from happening. These objects should be able to roll out of the printer in way less time if these strange things weren't there.

But why is it making diagonal lines, rather than parallel lines along the edge? Also related: Take the portecart file as example: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274570/#files It contains thin strips to hold cards up. In my opinion a double shell with 0% infill should be enough, but the thicker part to the left needs the infill to support the overhang of the top layers. Now, the thin strips have useless infill/travel things as can be seen here: Increasing print time yet again. Is there a way to decrease print time here?

Well that's the thing, I can't get the brim of without cutting/tearing and sanding it off. It's fused with the object. Objects printed without brim had better first layer quality(or atleast edges), but with bigger objects, warped edges. I'll take a picture to explain when my next object comes out. Though now you mention it, I had the same problem with rafts. The object would just be fused with the raft, unless I increased the airgap with a factor of like 3. Causing a very ugly first layer, but effective raft.

So I have another question regarding a model/Cura. Take a look at this screenshot It's a blue line madness. It's making very tiny movements diagonally and traveling to a new spot. Why would it do this rather than making long continued lines. Or why not a double pass for the shell and then the infill as usual? I also believe that the long printing time is due to this. And that it should be able to do it more efficiently!

I believe Colorfabb's XT is the most certified material as it has FDA approval. Not sure about the nylon and PET materials out there though. And the difference between foodsafe and living cellsafe is also quite extensive I'd say.

Damn, I figured out why I always hated brims. I was printing them at a too low temperature to stick to the bed... Though I still can't remove them nicely :(

@PeggyB, I tried to open it in the free basic netfabb software and I tried to do an default repair and export it, but that didn;t load either. Could you point out what I'm doing wrong, or what the correct steps should be? I think "redrawing this" could be the best solution yeah

I believe Colorfabb did extensive testing with regards to safety and micro particle 'pollution' and that they published the results that their PLA/PVA and XT were way safer than ABS etc. Though I'm not sure if they did this for glowfill and special filaments, although I'm sure they did. Given this observation of our printheads, I'm not sure what to do, what settings to change in order to compensate. I wonder if this can explain the recent feeling that my printer was performing suboptimal. I'll have to swap to the new nozzle to verify though.

Zou de 5V regulator er ook uitgeknalt zijn op je arduino zelf ?

Een wijs man zei mij ooit: seconde lijm werkt prima. En sindsdien zit mijn Z met seconde lijm vast Weet niet in hoeverre het gevaarlijk/slecht is though, maar zolang het hitte geleid dan lucht en niet vloeibaar wordt is het inprincipe beter dan niets.

Holy cow! I just checked my nozzle with a replacement nozzle next to it, and from the looks of it the diameter is significantly larger, and the shoulder is also way bigger then the new part. That being said, this nozzle is in use for a month or 2, perhaps 3 and has not been printing glowfill exclusively(also a lot of bronzefill and some other colorfabb colours). But this is quite an issue, if diameters start changing and shoulders start growing

Ik gok inderdaad dat de L7812cv is geknapt. Als ik het wel heb klapt hij de veilige kant op, namelijk geen stroom meer ipv kortsluiting. Er was iemand op het forum die de regulator had vervangen door een andere (betere) waardoor hij ook 19V voedingen kon gebruiken. Wat precies de gevolgen waren kan ik me niet meer herinneren, maar kijk hier even: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7462-power-supply-for-ultimaker-1/?hl=%2Bvoltage+%2Bregulator&do=findComment&comment=69893 Mocht je nog meer vragen hebben, of Engels een probleem zijn, laat het dan even weten

Sander, ik kan er helaas toch niet bij zijn :( (Ter kennisgeving voor de schatting van gasten.) In iedergeval heel veel plezier! Ik gok dat het weer een mooie, interactieve sessie wordt! Ik hoop dat er documentatie online wordt gezet met tips/tricks zodat ik het zelf kan proberen te doen Verder was ik benieuwd of jullie ook nog toelichten welke grootte waarvoor handig is/de gevolgen er van.

Yeah! I knew your avatar picture, but not your on the forums!

@ gr5, I think I did indeed meant Zacceleration instead of steps. If not these area's, where do you think improvements can be achieved?

@gr5, but how can you check when you get get an order through 3Dhubs, or someone comes to you with a model? Ofcourse there is a line between law and ethics, but I'm just curious about the entire industry etc. I think there was a different topic somewhere about monetizing 3D designing etc that contained interesting thoughts about 1 time prints infrastruction

This just made my day http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10718/#made

Dear all, So I encountered a model that Cura didn't like. In fact, Cura started freezing and crashing :( It loads, but the slicer freezes. I can look at the model(and it looks strange, with all the irregularities along the boarders, rather than a smooth wall). But as soon as I enter layer view, it shows 1 at the slider and nothing on the screen... It's this model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:309993 I tried to open it in meshmixer, and there it was full of blue and red lines. I tried to make it solid, but that obviously closed wrong spots. Also I tried some other options without the desired effects. I feel silly for not being able to solve this myself, but do you guys have any tips for functions I might have missed, or (free) software that can help me out? Not only making it sliceable, but if possible also with smoother walls for better print quality. Thanks!

Yeah @Woofy, but I think the question, or the debate, is, does it relate to the model, or copies of the model? If it's posted as CC-Attribution-Share Alike for example, I'd say you can put it up on your own website and let people download it from there, as long as you share it with the original uploaders name and share it under CC-ATR-SA also. And you could sell prints. But what if it is posted as Non-Commercial. Obviously, just like all CC licenses, you can't pass it off as your own and ask money for a download of the model. But, can you print one and sell that print? You are printing a free model, and asking money for the filament cost/time you put into it right? Or does NC really mean, no money involved. So what happens with 3D hub, people upload a file they want printed. They pick the model, you don't. You get payed for the service, not the model. Or even further, some friends asks if you would print this CC-NC model for him for a couple of bucks. Yes or no? Can't you argue that you let him borrow the printer for a couple of hours for those bucks and that he did it himself. Or let him borrow the printer, and your expertise and knowledge to print it. It being the same situation as just selling prints right? It's difficult, people want to make money with 3D printers, whether as a hobby through things like 3Dhubs and family/friends. Others go into services for like print at stands at venues for companies. Others might have a little 3D printed shop. I've always find this extremely hard because you could argue both ways. Heck, you could even argue that the print you made of a CC-NC model, that you didn't sell, but used to advertise your services, i.e. showing off what kind of cool things your printer can make, isn't allowed under NC license...

I've been printing with glowfill too a lot lately. But I haven't seen anything like this on my UMO. I'll check when I'm at home though.

Dear Community, I've been printing for a while know and things are going pretty well. Quite some nice things have come out of my UMO. That being said, I have the feeling I'm still working sub optimal. I can't really explain why, but I have the feeling things should be printed faster or neater. From the occasional first layer problems to over/under extrusion and various other problems. Being someone who likes to tweak and update things, both hardware and software, I thought it would be nice to compile a list of calibrate-able things and optimize my printer, compiling each step into a possible list/guide for other people. Background info: I usually print with 0.2 or 0.1 layer heights, 0.8 shell and 1.2 top/bot(to ensure it's really closed well) and 15-20% infill. The temperature is mainly 210C and for Doodle3D prints 230C Speed vary from 50-100 mm/s. Travel speed is 200 mm/s, though I could reach more if I oil every week. Some things I was thinking about: 1) Zsteps: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/02/the-myth-of-z-speed/ 2) Esteps: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1647-extruder-calibration/ 3) Temperature: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6774-pid-autotune-kpkikd/ I should be able to do these things since there is enough/some documentation. Though I'll try to compile all the useful stuff in 1 document. Note that these are settings related tweaks, I already did a hardware tweak a while ago with aligning everything etc. Remaining questions -Is there also a way to calibrate X and Y? -Are there other settings such as jerk that are calibrate-able? Other things I want to improve but not sure what to get/print: -More silent fans(while still efficient) (or duals) -A different fan shroud(/dual fan shrouds) -Get my dampers installed without having the backlash issues I once had, since I want my machine to be more silent. -Start experimenting with larger nozzle diameters than 0.4mm What do you think of this? Any tips, things I missed?

Actually, this filament from Colorfabb proved to be very mat. Someone showed it to us on an Ulti-evening: http://colorfabb.com/bluish-white#.VF9Y7J9Z2Ao He made an opera mask from it(something like this http://www.pxleyes.com/images/contests/masks-3/fullsize/Opera-mask-50aae5997b1c1_hires.jpg ) But it looked so sweet and mat. He's on the forums here too somewhere.

I don't have the best printer available :(? UMO rocks! Oh well, exams are done. Finally some time to do other stuff, like wait until nightfall to finally make awesome pictures of my coolest print up to date Tease tease, guess what!