Titus

Hm, can't believe I missed that. You are right! It's probably the green stuff that caused the problem. Best is to clean the flat silver rods thoroughly(this is going to be tough) and apply a light sewing oil.

Look at shifted layers/leaning prints: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide It's a pulley that is not tight enough somewhere

Keep us posted(I want a thumbler )

I always experienced objects being stuck to the raft. I tried increasing the airgap to like .5 which worked, but did result in low quality first layers.

Ik snap het Sander Komt er weer een video reportage/tutorial? Ik heb volgens mij namelijk nog wel een extra nozzle liggen, maar mis de precieze know-how/tools vrees ik.

with much more effort(or a rock thumbler) you can get really really shiny though. It's just a matter of more effort :(

It looks like a bros chocolate bar

Ik weet niet of ik er kan zijn :( Zou het mogelijk zijn er een voor mij uit te boren en aan iemand mee te geven die "in de buurt" woont/ op te sturen?

A little whipe with acceton should burn through ABS quite easy right? I'm a PLA user, so I'm not sure though.

Actually when I woke up, and started coming to sense(my roommates were in the hall knocking on the door asking if I was alright), the first thing I saw was whitish stuff everywhere, and I thought, "what the hell, how did all that glowfill spill out my printer? What the hell, I wasn't even printing right?"

It actually printed without that much warping There's one part that kinda got to much local heat I believe, it snapped out :(

I bought this one for like 30e http://f00.inventorspot.com/images/75335A.jpg It folds out into http://l.westfalia.eu/medien/scaled_pix/600/600/000/000/000/000/002/564/48.jpg Has 2 lamps and "a tripod" Has been used to create quite neat scenes: https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/1796561_1580365062182354_1124942338593446147_n.jpg?oh=d2bdb791bbb072def8f61f465d38320c&oe=54F5C253 http://i.imgur.com/SvrNuZW.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NI1am8N.jpg

@Jonny, that would be a hilarious hack But this could be seriously useful too, before starting a print, making sure you have material coming out the nozzle, and that it is level

Nice, ik zat er ook al een keer te denken aan om dat hoekje er uit te halen, kan je ook mooi je nozzle "afvegen" om schoon een print te starten. @Ignace, dit kan ook worden gebruikt voor "serie" productie waarbij je bijv een afmeting of instelling veranderd, om zo 10 kopieën te maken met andere eigenschappen voor een test. Serie productie staat niet meteen haaks op de uniekheid van een print. Ook dat gebruikers iets kunnen ontwerpen, naar de printer sturen, en dat hij het vorige eraf duwt voordat de nieuwe print gestart wordt kan handig zijn. Zo kunnen printers zonder personeel mensen zelf unieke dingen laten printen

I was thinking of drilling my nozzle out the day before yesterday Not sure if I can be there though, perhaps I can make it without my UMO. From .5 to 1.2 thats quite a big range! Do you guys have advice on what size could be useful in what kind of applications? How are you going to drill them out? What will happen to the "shoulder" as Joris calls it, the surface of the nozzle tip? And will you also change that?

Miraculously my amplifier and monitor were caught between the wall and frame. One of my latest prints that I still wanted to polish and show broke though :( Many interesting reasons as to how this could happen, mainly build up stress in the glass, either during production, transport, assembly, use or likely a combination. I'm so glad my printer wasn't (that) near: the chair intercepted the glass.

An unexpected alarm when power napping: http://i.imgur.com/jNrFnXd.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7ILshve.jpg It shattered spontaneously....

Interesting, I always thought it was the cooling of the bottom layer that shrinks and pops off. Managed to get 3 layers brim arround it, although they kinda let go of the build plate. Printing now, fingers crossed.

Just a quick question, I really need to start this print. What would happen if you uncheck print solid bottom. It would start with the infill precentage. Would that warp less/ And would it still be glueable?

The stirling engine is pretty cool yeah! Welcome I walked by the shoot so I saw what they were doing and making, but not that it was (partially). Perhaps it's a idea to contact PMB(the lab/workshop) @ Industrial Design too, they have UM's for these kind of (and bachelor) projects. Who knows what kind of interesting projects other students are working on. If you stop by in Delft, let me know Also Sander (A), when is the post about the next ulti-evening coming online. I was just thinking of the topic when I saw this post:

Anyone with even greater ambitions? What could our Ulti-Drone do?

In other news, @Sander @Ultimaker, check this out, a flying AED drone with sweet UM2 coverage @ 2:31

I'm printing the Mk 44 from Destiny, but this thing is something else http://www.myminifactory.com/object/thunderlord-from-destiny-3108

To prevent warping, I was thinking, would this work? It's 45 degrees...

Whats the noise level like in comparison to the old fans?