pm_dude

You can use all the version individually. You can also move them where you want since they are running completely independently. There could be stuff failing in the uninstall.

Having the settings on the machine is a great advantage. You should use the UM2 for what it's good at in my opinion. Since you can tweak them during the print and based on the material it give you more control and less settings to put in the gcode.

Did you look at the pictures before posting them? They are all out of focus. I explained already why the antenna look bad.

The part slice but it takes a while. Its still junk in the end and not printable. The model is doubled, half is with inverted normals and the polygons are all exploded. In other word your into a lot of work to get that model to work properly. If you look at it in XRay mode you will see that its almost all white. that mean that a lot of faces are overlapping.

Are you referring to the heat coming from the heated bed? If its thin maybe it could make it warp a little but since the fan create a flow (might be off on first layer) it should stay at a pretty low temp. Worst case a little section of aluminum sheet or beer can could be enough to block it.

Do the change filament procedure (from the um2 controller, Material->Change) - Remove the filament - Inspect the filament that was in the bowden tube to make sure the filament is not squashed or grinded. If it is cut it that part away. - Cut the tip at an angle. This will help the filament not get stuck at the opening of the nozzle. - Feed the filament in again. During the filament change procedure you should see the filament come out of the nozzle before ending the process. Good luck

Awesome. I'm happy 3DLac worked for HT! @Markus, your idea for the print head seems quite large. Also try keeping a good gap in z to clear the glass clips otherwise you will greatly reduce the your build size. I'm looking forward to see some more . I use this one and it touches the glass clips a little. It could be my nozzle being too tight fit. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-base-um2

Some more info here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8993-globular-final-10mm/

Thanks yellowshark. What printer have the tests made with? I'll do some on my side as well and show my results here. Here is some doc on the subject. Not as detailed as your comments. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#pillowing

You could also print the letters in a different color and glue them afterward

I have a few writings in Sharpie marker and the ink seems to penetrate the layers and stay there. I have not tried to remove the writings per say so I cannot tell if its really permanent or not. You might just need to let it dry a little more before starting to touch it.

For this print you need no support. The supports for the hand are the only one that are needed so turn off the supports touching the buildplate. I would like to see a shot of the base of the ears as they will show most of the effect of having good fan cooling. (Watch out with the focus. You better stay further from the object to get good focus) If we compare with the old pictures you posted its getting better (ignoring the hand issue) Try the same print with lower temps. Try at 210C, 200C and 190C-195C. The colder you will print the better overhang will get and the less strings you will get too. The top antenna are bad because you need to use cool head lift option or print more than one at the time. You can see some more info here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8993-globular-final-10mm/

Hi Jeff, Check the travel speed in the advanced tab. I thing the default is 150mm/s which is not that fast. I usually set it to 200mm/s but reduce acceleration on the x/y motors on my UM2. The UM2 can go up to 300mm/s so that's why its that high.

Usually its pretty easy to talk about the changes in mind before doing them if the goal is to push them in the main branch. Otherwise you do something for yourself and then propose it. I have plenty of things I want to look into and while talking about it first, in some cases, Daid told me in which version it use to exist.

it was merged today. Wait for the next RC

yes

OMG http://www.razerzone.com/cortex/stream

Good news. Support for single layer view with 15.01 RC6 can be found here: https://github.com/pmsimard/Cura/commit/0fc81665a174d94d828d594fef31d1f8b6aa591a Daid merged the change in the main version too. Thanks @drayson, I've tested something to show the individual steps of the layer but it wont work properly without some important changes but its doable.

If you know the teflon piece is deformed you can drill it.

Hi furball, I had the same issue at the beginning The problem is that the minimum layer time will not be respected if the printer as to slow down less than the min print speed. That value is set in the expert settings -> Cool -> Minimum speed. That value is 10mm/s by default I think. So regardless the the min layer time you put it will not go slower than that speed. This causes the hot nozzle to melt the plastic in place. If you enable the Cool head lift option just under the minimum speed you will notice 2 things: - The head will lift and move away from the model whenever the min layer time cannot be respected. - In Layer view you will see the blue toolpath showing the head lift but also the layers will be in dashed form instead of being in tick paths. So you can: - use cool head lift which will cause some small strings that are usually quite easy to remove - print more than one version at the time - add a tower next to your print to allow the print to cool more - add a blob of geometry next to the object at the layer you start needing it so it cover the layer time. This is what I usually do. See the box on the tip?

Are you sure there is only one object in there? Seems odd to me. Is this the one? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:71968

Can you post a picture of the latest shroud just to see? From the previous pictures I see under extrusion or small holes on the shell. If these are holes they could be caused by the head movement between the inner shell and the outer shell. They are usually bigger the bigger the layer height . At 0.1mm layers you shouldn't see them. If its under extrusion the next comment will make it worst. At 0.1mm layers and 30mm/s you could easily print at 200C or even less. What filament brand do you use? Some could require higher or lower temp. I also see a lot of stringing (drips of plastic caused by retraction). Stringing happen more when the nozzle is hot but depending on the speed it may be needed. If you print hot you may want to play with a few retraction parameters and also with travel speed. Higher travel speed will spend less time moving without printing. Longer retractions should help reduce the strings. The fans at 255 = 100%. Fans will have an impact on

The main board is Arduino if I'm not mistaking. It should be fairly simple to find the good one.

You could have an issue in the nozzle or teflon insulator. Partial clog, deformed insulator, damaged bowden tube... You might want to consider starting another topic and detail your issues and your tests so far with a few pictures or print settings.

Sorry I mean the knurl nut. The metal cylinder that sticks out of the stepper motor that pushes the filament in the bowden tupe.