Labern

Look in layer view to see if the lines are continuous or broken up. If the are continuous the you may have under extrusion. Could be caused by printing to fast or blocked nozzle so something else. If it's broken up then you need to design slightly thicker walls as Eldrick says. You can also check x-ray mode to see if there are any red areas which are problems with the model.

You are lucky that you can get it, does it give you the white residue, and does it warp like acetone.? I have a friend who is a doctor, i may have to ask him, lol. No white residue. You end up with a really smooth shiny part. It remainds i little sticky so you need to leave it to fully harden overnight. have to be careful at the temp you vapor polish at as its can warp if to high. I know you are more used to dipping but I haven't tried that. I think it will melt it to much.

I thought the same. Even read it on the net that it's illegal but couldn't find any law against it so just went and asked.

Use spiralize to stop bobbing etc. Can you not rotate the item so the large bit is at the bottom?

I brought chloroform from the local chemist. They didn't ask any questions but they had to order it in for me. It makes the print supper smooth and shiny unlike acetone on Pla.

The heater and temp sensor are both in the heater block. The temp sensor is measuring the block and relaying the information so the heater applies enough heat to keep it at that temp. But the screw in nozzle protrudes out of that block and as different materials have different thermal heat transfer properties the actual temp inside the end of the nozzle can be completely different to what the temp sensor is reading in the heater block.

i can measure current also next time. Will get a second probe to measure externally. The body temp is measured and kept stable by the PT100 When UM release the kit it would be good to use the new more accurate PT100 Can see why E3D moved to the hardened steel as it has a lot better thermal properties then the stainless. but I will try carbon fiber with the Olsson Special soon to see how it goes as its better still.

It is using a 25w heater, Not that the wattage matters as its not under load and its controlled by the PT100. My PT100 must be reading a bit off but its consistently off and the results still show the inconsistencies between the different material types. I even retested the different nozzles and came up with the same readings. The results are showing the thermal properties between the different material types. I left it for about 5mins. I waited for any fluctuations to stop and for it to settle at a consistent temp. The temp was measured with an external k type temp probe which i made sure was sitting at the end of the nozzle every time. The stainless had by far the slowest reaction time to any temp changes. I will test with the fans on full as soon as my 35w heater arrives as it is now the standard wattage. I will also do another check with out fans to see if any effect has taken place.

Yes even experienced users find XT difficult to print with. It not my most favorite material and now prefer nGen. There seems to be something wrong with your material profiles. You my need to do a firmware update as there was a problem with the original firmware on the + machines that effected the temp.

Hey, Good to see you here. They are some good results you have there. The UM2+ is a great machine. One thing that may have got you confused with the conflicting results in your searches is XT and PLA/PHA are actually 2 completely different materials that require 2 very different settings.

Just some added info to compare nozzle temp differences. Yes my heater block PT100 is not accurate but the test still shows the thermal differences between the different nozzle types.

So I finally got around to testing all the different nozzles. There is a massive difference between the different types except the Olsson special and brass is pretty much the same.

I designed This one to be quite compact but also runs on bearing as a added benefit.

Sounds great. I would love to test these and compare them against the other hard nozzles I have. Count me in.

I'm also getting no notifications for some posts but seeing them in the forum unread filter. Its also not directing me to the unread posts. When using the unread filter in the forum can we have the option to individually mark topics read? Can we also have the option to preview the unread posts? and select the amount of previews? This can be handy for people who regularly view the forum and means we dont have to wait to pages to open all the time.

Where I worked we tried Thermal pastes and copper pastes and copper anti-seize grease. Didn't matter what we used it ended up drying out causing issues working in about the same temp ranges. So we settled with using nothing at all. The oil tends to migrate away leaving the soap in the copper anti-seize. this is ok for bolts but it looses its benefits for temp sensors. I also remember a few posts of people here who couldn't get their sensors out after using the thermal paste.

Just mark you own post

Thermal grease. Copper paste can also dry out at high temps over long periods but not as bad.

I don't recommend it as it goes hard over time and you wont be able to get the sensor out easily. If you do ever remove the sensor then you have to remove all the grease as the dried up remains end up as a thermal insulator. Its normally for heat sinks that have flat surfaces where it is not a problem.

Looks very nice. I should give that a try.

Did you notice that the hex has been machined off the nozzle so its completely round. This way the ring has better heat transfer. If you leave the hex on the nozzle the ring will only touch in a few small spots. only way to get around this is to use a old nozzle to panel beat the ring to match

The only problem I see with attaching something on the outside of the nozzle is XT-CF20 tends to stick and build up on the nozzle as its printing. If something else is attached it could make an even bigger mess.

That's an interesting idea. I may test the temp differences on the 4 different types of nozzles tonight. See how they compare. May even print a test piece if I get time.

The heat transfer is really bad so the tip remains quite cold especially with fans. I used the stainless which was not very successful. Have a hardened steel and olsson new one but yet to try either on carbon.

I thought the jet nozzles are stainless steel which is not good for XT-CF20 Where the E3d ones are hardened steel which has better heat transfer.