Labern

Its bed leveling. just lower the front screws a little and it should be fine.

Make sure the olsson block is sitting parallel with the bottom alloy heat sink plate. You may need to drill out the hole in the alloy plate that the heater / temp sensor clamping screw goes into. The dimension on some blocks is out so the screw makes the OB sit on an angle.

I still have a 25w heater on the 3 machines I have with installed OB's. One has had the OB from the first batch ever sent. So it can work with the 25w heater but it would be better with the 35w.. I'm just waiting for the + kit set to be released as it should come with a 35w heater.

You will find your answers HERE

I was actually surprised with the OB that I received. Came in a cool like box with some instructions which I wasn't expecting. Yes at the time UM were preparing for the release of the UM2+ which comes out with a 35w heater. So it would have been ideal if one was added into the kit. But if I do look back at the info that was available when I first got my UM2 you can really see how much effort UM has put in and improved so far. There is always room for improvement but this is one reason why there is an Ideas section on the forum.

you may need to check the homing switch with a meter to make sure its actually switching. even though its clicking there maybe something wrong with it.

When you are putting the buildings together are you removing the joining walls to make it one solid model? Your Xray looks mainly white which means it has internal walls. it should look dark blue. what you can try is in the expert settings there is fix horrible with 4 different options. try selecting option B and try different combinations of them all to see if you can fix it. otherwise you will need to make sure your model only has the outer shell with no internal structure.

Firstly I would do a few Atomic pulls to make sure there is nothing blocking the nozzle. If it still prints bad after that it might be time for you to replace your PTFE coupler. Some versions of cura have the infill set higher speed then the outer layers so you see under extrusion there first. Looking at your green test block it looks as though it was printed to cold and the top bit that looks good is hotter due to less cooling time.

Yes plain water, WITH the use of an ultrasonic bath. Not much info as you say. it looks nice though but small build volume.

Its called the ooze shield which can be turned off under BASIC tab, DUAL EXTRUSION

Yes the black ring is the I2K wafer. It does go under the PTFE, I did not realise that is what you were referring to. Its another method to prolong the life of the PTFE and can withstand high temps without deforming. Its widely used and works very well.

The Spacer replaces the spring above the PTFE just like on the new UM2+ models. helps stop constant pressure from the spring, deforming the PTFE.

The Guide for the half turn back will only work if you are using the spring not the spacer. With the spacer you screw the coupler till the PTFE is firm against the spacer. not to tight that you put to much pressure on the PTFE but tight enough so there is no movement and everything sits tight against each other. When you do this make sure the steel coupler is not hitting the Olsson Block. there should be atleast 1mm cap between the steel coupler and the Olsson Block to make sure everything if sitting firm inside.

Yeah it looks under extruded a bit. Its not normally best just to increase the flow % as it might mask your issue. might be caused by a problem in your hotend or feeding path so this will need a good checking over first.

yes you can. Cura 1..99 supports it and I think you need the latest firmware. When you plug it in via USB it should auto recognize it. Well I know tinkerware comes up with the USB printing screen.

If this wall is .4 or under then it will be hard to get a nice finish in that section. 2 passes on a thin wall is best. You can set the nozzle size smaller then the actual nozzle size and still get good results down to 0.3mm I have gone smaller but its hard from that point to get the same results. if you are able to this and get 2 passes in this area then that would be good.

Just you using the 0.25mm nozzle takes time to get used to. You need to increase speed or drop temp a bit. But it seems amont has a issue of being supplied the wrong sized nozzles.

Now I understand the thin part that you have been explaining. Do you know the width of this area? Have you looked in layer view to make sure it prints every layer for that one section? If you print multiple items you need to put them as close together as possible to help stop getting the blobs.

Some people have printed new spacers to fix this. I don't think there is anything to worry about though. My prints have been just fine and I have the same issue. But it's good to try and fix it if possible. You might learn a thing or 2

Ultimaker actually provide a calibration card with the printers now for bed leveling.

Sounds promising. Looks like some items should print just fine.

Yeah but it can be print design dependant. A area where the fans airflow is deflected towards the nozzle long enough to cause the error. I had the same issue where it happened a few weeks after changing my fan shroud. Could be that the temp sensor is not sitting in a slightly different spot then before maybe. Or have you upgraded firmware recently?

Order the 35w heater and while you wait for it to arrive print with fans at around 75% maximum. Ultimately you would benefit with faster heat up times. Faster printing abilities and not have to worry about temp errors with 35w heater.

Sometimes the error happens if it starts printing a flat area which deflects the air flow towards the nozzle or heater block. I would really recommend either dropping the fan speed or getting a 35w heater.

Its an ok feature but only helps on a small amount situations. The problem is, When it slows down the material feeding is slower. this means the material absorbs more heat and has more thermal expansion. this tends to give fatter lines and can give blobs. Also you have a hot nozzle moving slowly, this can also overheat the part. If you have a small part and it start printing a already soft layer then this is also an issue. So the best way to solve the issue is to print 2 items. the print speed stays the same and the part has plenty of time to cool.