Labern

There is always going to be some slip. Doesn't matter what feeder you are using. The amount of slip will change though and like nallath said it can be material dependant. It's how much do you compensate for the amount of slip? If you adjust the temp then this will adjust the amount of pressure then this will adjust the amount of slip in the drive wheel. That's why I am also interested in measuring the pressure. But you can't do this on small prints or ones with heaps of retractions as the value will constantly change. If the temp is accurate and the amount of slip it constant then the prints will be good. We used to achieve this by using driven material rolls with taper control. This way the feeder resistance from the roll side would stay constant. The new PT100 will also help keep the pressure at a constant and the rest is a matter of software.

you may want to slow it down a bit. Like 50mm/s or even 40mm/s

It could be but if it was installed properly then it should be fine if its only a couple of weeks old. What print speeds and layer heights are you trying to print with?

Yes. I find nGen a whole lot nicer to print with and gives nice strong results with good appearance. You also don't get the brown burnt bit coming off in your print like you do with XT

It looks like it still has 6 hours print time so must be a big model

Having a bit of new grease will loose any dry bits and help with cleaning. You can hold a cloth on the screw near the build plate and raise the build plate with the other hand. This will make the screw rotate and help in wiping inside the threads. You can then use a clean piece of cloth and do the same underneath. Then apply a small amount of new grease. I think your problem maybe with the linear bearings on the 2 guide shafts. Do not grease these but you can test them to see if one is causing your issue. You need to remove the cover and unscrew the bearing from the build plate. then slide just the bearing up and down the shaft to see if there are tight spots. To change the bearings you unscrew the black plate underneath the machine and slide the rod out. then you can remove the bearing.

Love it. This is something that i have wanted to do. Have you noticed a difference between different material types?

Try printing at 220 or 230

You initial layer thickness should be about 0.3 not 0.0 That travel speed is really low. should be about 200mm/s What temps and print speed are you using? And photo of the print?

The motor is a different model and I'm not sure how the specs compare. But the gearing alone provides more torque so yes you should be able to push the filament at lower temps. Robert has also mentioned that the printed parts are slightly heavier than with the old feeder which means it's extruding slightly more.

Yes it is compatible with all UM2's and works very well, it's now included in the new + printers. There is and installation guide Here Yes you have to use resellers now sadly.

What temp and speeds are you trying to print with? What is the result of your current attempts? Remember that it's try to push twice the amount of plastic through the nozzle as a 0.1mm layer so you need to print slower of hotter or both.

I have printed at 130deg on the original feeder. How low do you want to go?

I would love to enter the competition but I have so much work to do at the moment I'm not sure if I could make it.

If you can build one within a month and print some of the parts I'm pretty sure you will win the UM2+ upgrade kit

You can buy a hot end pack that has a temp sensor and PTFE coupler, nozzle and others. If you don't have one the I would suggest getting a olsson block or even the new UM2 upgrade kit.

Got to finish my current project first.

I think the best thing would be to have heaps of different top section options. So normal plastic extruder Laser engraver Paste extruder and other cool ones. If the cables are hard fixed and plug in when you change the top it you make it super easy to swap over. You can then have different gantry types depending on what is required by the application.

The PTFE effects PLA more then ABS. I would think that it will need replacing with that many hours of printing with ABS if you want to use PLA. You will also need to do a lot of atomic pulls to make sure all the abs is cleared from the nozzle before using PLA. If you don't do atomic pulls the at the lower pla temps it won't clear naturally.

I was able to add 2.85 Glowfill to my cart.

Maybe, except a Glowfill 2.85. Colorfabb dont sell it anymore :( It is still listed on their website with 2.85 as an option. Have they actually stopped selling it though?

It's 24v All this information can be found in the ultimaker github.

The gearing stops the motor heat heating up the hobbled drive wheel so it doesn't soften the filament as its feeding. This can cause grinding with the old feeder. As its geared it can apply more force on the filament. Yes the motor has less steps but the gearing makes up for it. You shouldn't get the motor skipping back like the old one.

The new ones are meant to be easier to open and remove the glass without slicing your fingers to shreds like the old ones

fans on 50% or lower Its not a very easy filament to print with and I have stopped using it because of these issues. Bed temp needs to be quite height as well. It needs to stay quite warm while printing for the layers to have strong adhesion.