Labern

Some of the OLD UM2's had different heights for the black parts. I guess this way it makes sure everything would fit. Normally when you change bearings its also good to change the shafts otherwise new bearings end up being used on warn or damaged shafts.

Many reasons It needs thin oil as they have sintered bearings which are porous and absorb the thin oil. If grease is used then they will gum up. Dust will also stick to the grease and make it worse. The axis move fast and grease will put to much strain on them, where the x axis just rotates a small amount.

Have you tried putting a few drops of oil in the bowden tube or using a oiler on the filament? you also need to print really slow like 10mm/s

This is a very OLD and unstable version of beta and would recommend that you don't use this version.

To answer you question, The printer is driven down. you could make it so it will stay up but its better to design a mount where it doesn't move with the build plate. This way its always looking at the business end where you can see any problems with the hotend. Ones that move with the plate on tall prints, you cant see the hot end very well.

You need to use really thin oil like sewing machine oil or 3 in one oil To get it free and moving again the best method is to wet a cloth in the sewing machine oil and wipe the shafts. move the head around and repeat. The new oil on the cloth will soften and help remove the old oil and will re-lube it at the same time. Just keep changing to a clean piece of cloth every time you wipe it.

@Giogiogio4 check what I2K you got as the one you linked to is the wrong size. As neotko points out there is one for 1.75 from the gr5 store.

Oh, didn't realize that they had one

Oh and if you are using the 1.75mm kit then you cant use the i2K as this is for 2.85mm filament only. You will end up with a pocket in between the PTFE coupler and Heaterblock which will give you heaps of issues

This could be the filament coming off the feeder wheel. As the filament is smaller and more flexible it could be bending inside the feeder and coming off the idler roller or hobbled feeder driver. Then when you press the leaver it straightens up and then keeps gonig

PLA is a lot stronger then ABS and has better layer adhesion. You can get high temp PLA's and colorfabb are soon to release a high temp filament. I currently use nGen which has a glass transition temp of 85deg. For printing your nuts and bolts I would suggest printing a few at once as to prevent overheating. with ABS you don't want much fan or even no fan. lowering the minimum layer time can have a negative effect sometimes so for small parts its normally better to print more then one and bigger parts you can print a small tower next to the model.

I would say the Bondtech will be stronger then the UM one. The Bondtech sits external of the machine. Not an issue for some but can be for others who move there printer around a lot. You need to adjust the steps as they are different then the UM ones. there are instructions for this but if others want it more seamless then the UM option you just install the + firmware. I am guessing the UM one is plenty strong enough and haven't seen anyone with issues yet. Robert also reported that prints are heavier then with the old feeder. In saying this, People with the Bondtech are also happy with their purchase. For me the upgrade kit is a good option as you also get a metal fan shroud. Long term i think this is better then the printed ones. Spring replacement which will be more stable long term then a printed one. Better PT100 and replacements for those finger slicing clips.

The test block is good with no issues. The difference in color is due to heat related issues. When the print starts off it prints slow then speeds up. As it prints slow it can overhear the material. The lines higher up are when it finishes printing the rectangle and is only printing the towers. As these layers are only printing two smaller things there is less cooling time so it ends up a bit hotter again.

nGen Also prints really nice with no fan or fan on low. So would be good to do a strength test with lower fan %

Your printer should have also come with the square test block. How does that look? That small defect could be from anything and may not be a printer problem. I don't know why you cant use it.

That's ok. Glad it worked well for you. It's a handy tool to have for different things. All the best in you're custom build. Post some pics once it's up and running.

I wonder how well vapor polishing natural Pla works.

Yeah. It's the 32 rolls I won in the time lapse contest. Can't wait to try some of them out.

Well seeing it holds material information and defines internals (as I understand it) plus other benefits then it's obviously the way to go. The next step is for design software companies to alow you to export your drawings into this format. This could take some time. Another thing is how easy is it to edit a 3MF and convert files to 3MF using 3rd party applications. Stl is not so nice to work with in these cases.

Do you have pictures? It's featured in the prints section

wow what a rip off. So you are paying for your own prize then. I wonder if they also accept bribes to loose so you don't have to pay the winners fee.

what competition is it? Link?

This is the first I have seen of it but it says out of stock.

Look at what I just found on my door step! Wohoo

Great, hope it works out well this time