Labern

15.04 you can change the gap between the model and the support but not support roof density. Cura 1.99 is very good and the support provides very clean results.

It looks 2 hot

I did but can't remember. I did not record all the details. I will be switching back to it later some time. Just print a few small towers and play around with them. Your setting will be a bit different then mine as you have the +

It won't be getting the + kit and it has been said that UM won't sell and heated bed for it. I will be getting a plus kit for mine and adapting it anyway. The 3Dsolex heated bed works very well and along with the Olsson Block it has turned it into my favorite machine. I can print a lot faster on it then my other UM2 with the same quality.

Have you tried using ABS slurry? You can print off some pucks in the same color as you print and use acetone to cover the bed in a thin slurry.

Check all the speeds in cura. Make sure they are all the same. The infill might be set to a faster speed then the inner and outer walls. I normally print the robot at 30mm/s And have temp at 190deg. 3 walls thick and 0.1 layer height.

In onshape you can transfer the ownership to anyone with an account but people without an account can still view it. You can have unlimited amount of public drawings upto 5gb ( sounds small but is actually heaps.)

Needs glue and I normally set the bed to 85 or 90Deg

I have used GrabCad and Onshape. Onshape is good where you have the owner of the project and many other people that can view and edit the drawings all at the same time. You just share the access to all people involved in the project to allow access to view and edit all drawings, It then shows who edited the design and what they have done. Its something that would work really well for this kind of setup but you need people familiar with the software or willing to learn how to use it.

I used a drill bit but you could use a needle file.

Ok. Yes I have had one that had burrs where the securing screw goes through. this was stopping them from going all the way in and the burrs had to be removed with a drill bit.

That's no good. Have you been able to get it to work? Is it just the PT100 censor that wont fit? or the heater as well?

Another thing to consider is adoptions of the projects to different machines. Like the tool changer. It was first started on UMO, Then another user adapted it to work on UM2. There will need to be a branch so the info can be gathered for the different machines. Also highlighting requests for certain knowledge would be good. so people with that knowledge can see areas that they can chip in to help. Sometimes its hard to get people to help you on a project as they may have their own projects or different end result.

There was a batch problem a while back. To test it you cut 1m off the roll and tape it every 200mm or so in a straight line. leave it over night and the next day if its broken at the tape joins then its a bad roll. if this is the case then It may print but about 20deg cooler. or heat it in the oven at 70deg for 30mins or put it in a pot with hot water and then let it dry.

The PT100's can be very different from one to another. This is the reason why it has been improved in the UM2+ If I remember correctly, Gr5 test's his before he sends them out. So either social a UM2+ sensors or 2 tested ones from Gr5 may help with consistency. Not sure about the feeder. Maybe bowden tube? Alignment issue with heater block?

Filters can be important when looking for a post but you cant remember the actual words used. You can narrow down the results by only searching in one forum topic and time range etc

Yeah you kinda need to blend Github, Wiki, and instructables together. What ever you do, can you do it fast cos I need someone that knows programming for my project

Cura has a feature called Alternate extra wall that is used between infill and external walls to give better cohesion. Maybe for dual print there could be a feature to use this in between both parts. For your tool changer just have one head that squirts glue between the 2 materials

I have printed with the 0.25mm nozzle at 0.04 regularly and quite successfully.

I think its a great idea. Some of the great ideas and builds get lost in the hackers section once people stop commenting on them. But new comers don't get to see it as its to far down the list. If some of these are captured in a way that people can easily see interesting projects that they can do to their printers if would be great. I don't know much about the website software you would use but developing a project can be difficult in the forum platform. you just end up with pages of comments that you have to fish through to get the relevant information that you need to implement it.

Your speeds can cause heaps of problems. Make them all the same. This way the temp can be controlled properly.

I wonder how many people who are strong on open source buy programs like Simplify3D. Having to buy something to get these features because of Licences and patents seems a bit against the open source system. I'm sure someone in the community who is capable to make a workaround to get this to work could provide some sort of solution.

Just attach the bow to the top of the print head as its printing.

I will try them all in a drip test and vapor polish test to compare. Will post results later.

The 2+ has a stronger feeder to be able to push it at lower temps. but yes also more accurate temp sensor also.