cloakfiend

never mind, just dirty stl files from here.....for all lithopane fans. http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/ thats the price you pay when you get stuff free on the net! weird geometry that cura doesn't know what to do with. luckily cura has no problem with files from zbrush and max! i found a bit of white pla, but blue looks cooler me thinks.

hi folks, not done anything but zbrushing in a while with multiple objects and now ive done some supports for my lithopanes in 3dsmax and attached all elements, but when i print them it deletes where they intersect? everything is checked in the menu, do i need to uncheck something? union is checked and all that?

buy an ultimaker. lol.

Not sure mate. Im more of a creator than mechanic. Luckily i have only ultimakers. All i cam say is try and remeber the last fully working scenario. And go from there, crossing off one variable at a time. Did you update any firmware? That might change stuff? If everything was working at one point, just try to get back to that point and then try new things out. Lots of knowledgable people here but i can vouch Gr5 knows his stuff!

well if it looks better quality overall then i guess its worth pursuing a fix... ...or go back a version and wait for an even newer one to come out and just skip one out. don't worry about following the crowd.

So why not just go back to the version of Cura that worked well for you? What functionality does this newer one have that made you ditch the older one? Like i say to many people here, if it ain't broke don't fix it! Because you will be running into these problems a lot. Escpecially using software thats not designed specifically for your machine....a not Ultimaker. ...but also dont get angry. Some people tend to get angry when you advise them in good spirit not to upgrade, thinking they are somehow missing out using software that doesn't work for them anyway.....

well here are my lithopanes, transparent red didnt work at all, but blue looks nice! another thing i learnt here was that considering these were printed at 0.15mm layer height, after a light acetone brush, at 3mm the red didnt warp. and considering how delicate and thin it is that was a pleasant surprise and another reason to pure brush rather than dip.

here are some untouched agisoft scans. came out better than live subjects, but still a bit noisy! From 37 photos taken on my note 4 (as all new camera phones suck!) they all appear to be 8-12mp and have active and un-switch-offable noise reduction. its all since some api changed apparently. to makes peoples selfies smoother...ffs. for a camera apparently a 40mm lens is ideal so they say.

Ahh nice, I am also making Lithopones, but don't have any white! lol. Just a ton of transparent red! You might want to try to print hotter if you find them breaking or thicken them out a bit...

I've been doing more X-rated stuff, not sure who is going to see it apart from the people who commisioned it though. Such a shame. I may make a cheeky vase v2, or breasty vase, or a private area vase? lol. I spent hours taking apart agisoft scans. Its very irritating that it stacks scan data back to back rather than choosing the top level (as recap does) It makes capping and closing holes a real nightmare, not to mention crashing Zbrush a lot. There are many internal walls so the 3d proggie doesnt know which ones to cap and you just get vertex sex (total mess).

I'm expecting to see these ornaments Mr. Kman!

Im going to try other materials now and test other things out seeing as though i have a lot of samples around. Am interested in finally trying out some copper or bronzefill....and hitting it with some dremmel tips.

Thanks, and Yes mecha black primer looks nice on most things. Its durable and has a nice satin sheen.

I dont have any polyalchemy filament. But ill try it on some of my colorfabb samples i have out of curiosity!

It always does it to some extent when things change on the model then that can happen as a result of thermal cooling, but cura should not cut it like that.

Id say if you can see them in cura, then they are there. as the printer only does what cura tells it to do? I could be wrong though!

Tell me about it. I loved autodesks free phototogrametry model even the medium quality ones. But thet decided to screw the begginers looking into this scene and focusing more on drone scans. There really is nothing else out there unfortunately. A gap in the market. Loads of things have depth sensors, but where the hell is the software at a reasnoble price to utilise it. Catch 123 was better than agisoft for live subjects. The advantage agisoft has for me even though it sucks for faces, is that its local. And i dont need to have an internet connection. Looks like getting hold of an old kinect is the only other way. Or to get someone to write a programme for you! Lol. Such a shame. Shame on you autodesk! Im working on fixing up 2 scans at the mo, but its taking hours to manually add track points to all the images!

Just to let you know I've been trying Agisoft Photoscan, with VERY poor results. Recap was way better. Agisoft just produces meshes with way more noise and distortion in comparison, and you need to help it a lot, adding points and markers. Don't pay for this programme if you intend to use it casually, as you will be very disappointed. Have a play in the free 31 day trial and then chuck it. I have no other options but to use it as a base as I am not aware of any other programmes the I can use offline. I may try recap one more time, but it will be through gritted teeth. Their subscription model sucks ass big time. I really think it is a total rip off. 100 pound for 100 credits? what a joke. that like 8 scans. At best. with under 50 photos each. Autodesk is pretty much a pyramid scheme now. avoid at all costs.

Needle files are last or almost last when the power tools have done their bit. Its not being lazy, its valuing your time! You preffer relaxing to sanding......who doesnt? only liars!

I now always use tools for all the major stuff, its what tools are for after all. It saves so much time. Then a bit of fixing up and straight to the acetone. After that another once over with light sanding to fix problem areas and its done. Thd dremel can only really be used on larger areas but the round burrs seemed fine to me and didnt melt, only the thin one. But ive had a tiny drill melt pla after it heated up very quickly. Forget about using anything with a needle tip on it, pla it will instantly melt, from my experience anyway. Needle files are where its at in my opinion, so damn good. You just need to understand how to make the most out of them. Great for keeping surfaces flat and not uneven as hand sanding might do.

Yeah i use a dremel 4000 not even on the lowest setting but don't press down, let it rumble on the top and you'll be ok, the smaller the tip the quicker it melts. Thats why if you use a big 'burr'?, it wont melt. The needle thin small ones melted immediately. dont sit in the same spot as well. I went a bit heavy on the super glue as filler and poor modelling meant that this model is bumpy because I didn't model it with hard edges and rushed it because I couldn't be bothered to hard edge it so the faces aren't actually flat. Ill fix it up a bit but seeing as its a destroyed Unicron ill leave the damage to the face. My copper solution is contaminated and cant plate again till i replenish it and find some new reliable source to buy it from. ebay is sketchy and the folks who sold it to me admitted they were miss-sold the copper from the factory, whether thats true or not is irrelevant to me its ruined my setup completely. I said I would give negative reviews to them. we'll see, it was only £18 but i've already bought new copper for £12. Best to get it direct from factories as offcuts rather than resellers not knowing what they are selling. Some pics before final plate. dont know why they come up as portrait?

Lol, thats the next stage, but i put superglue on already by mistake!

Hi again, so here is my Unicron WIP sculpt that has more of a moustache as the other one i made didn't and it bothered me after seeing it in old comics and cartoons. Easily solved in an hour or so, followed by 18 more, lol. I also recently purchased some burring tools which i must say work great in removing layer lines on bottom surfaces, and between thin and hard to get to areas. Pics below. the titanium ones are awesome (the bigger ones) the small ones are also great, but just coated metal as opposed to actual shaped metal. You just need to be careful with the small ones as they will just melt the plastic real fast if you keep going without a break. big surfaces are easy and quick yo clean up. Doing that by hand would be a royal pain. Ill just fill the rest of the gaps in with superglue and sand it down to get a glass finish. One of his moustaches broke off, or I broke it off, doesn't matter, but superglue and activator are my new best friends! I highly recommend it, but its real nasty stuff so be very careful dont get the spray, get the pen, that way you can draw it on wherever you want and add it on later as well. I find superglue much easier to control than filler, and it sands better too without any tiny holes that filler often has, and it also doesn't react to liquids or paint that filler has issues with. Not sure why support was not generated for the left horn, as it suffered s a result and is a bit flat on the bottom. So just having the support there does make a difference even if it does not quite touch! good to know.

Thats good to know. As i have a mac laptop too with no mouse. The navigation in cura is not ideal, but its like zbrush. Its ok once you get the hang of it. I only have ctrl, shift, alt and space on my wacom tablet so those keys and a mouse/pen/touchpad is all you should need. Id rather prioritise alternate functions in support generation or other stuff in cura rather than rotation personally. But thats because i figured out the interface.

I use a wacom and have finally figured out how to finally zoom in an out and pan using the pen so rotation or anything else is no longer a problem. Using shift and ctrl with pen clicks (mouse clicks) gives me all the control i need now. Not sure if that will work for non wacom users but should do?