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Everything posted by krys

  1. Hi to all! Hi Neotko! Great ! that would damper well the bed vibrations and I hope that will improve your print results Hi @Gudo, Are you sharing (or willing to share) your bed stabilizer publicly and/or are you planning to sell kits? I would be interested in getting/making one too, if @neotko says it improves prints. I have M6 threaded rod so I do not mind making it. Thanks and Happy New Year!
  2. You guys lost me a bit there. Me = nozzle neophyte. I get that the 3DSolex nozzles are different than E3D ones. But is that what the UM2(+)/Upgrade Kit ships with as stock? Or are the JET RSB nozzles further different than what Ultimaker ships, even though they look the same? (I get that the Matchless stuff is a whole different thing.) I guess I also wonder that's the difference between the UM3 AA & BB cores and how do they map on to my UM2/Olson Block brain. This is a bit off topic, but if I want good PVA capability, I would like to have a clear(er) understanding. Plus a quick fo
  3. Hi foehnsturm, Looks excellent! So I guess this means you have PVA working and adhering successfully. And tips for PVA on the UM2(+) (i.e. *not* UM3)? Thanks.
  4. You know, I have seen some nice magnet-based project on Thingiverse and YouMagine. Maybe it's time to make some magnetic (and dual-printed) gifts for family and friends!
  5. Hi @SyntaxTerror, (I love your handle, BTW!) I am interested in taking you up on your offer. I will PM you and we can hammer out the details. Thanks very much! You are very kind!
  6. I just saw this paragraph! I missed it first time. D'oh! If the magnets are press-fit, then the difference between 6.0 (+/- 0.1) and 6.35 (+/-) is huge. In which case I would suggest having version that accommodate North American people. If it is hard to locally get metric magnets in Canada, which is officially a metric country, just think of how difficult it would be for Americans. Then again, they have more scientists, so who knows, but still... If the magnets are glue-on, then designing for imperial would cover all bases, I would imagine. @SyntaxTerror has offered to hook me up, whi
  7. Hi @foehnsturm, Two questions about the magnets: In Canada it is harder to find exact metric sizes for magnets (or anything else it seems! :() than imperial/American/standard/whatever. My math says 1/4 inch is 6.35mm and 1/8 inch is 3.175mm. Would 6.35mm x 3.175mm magnets fit your design? Are they close enough for tolerances, etc.? ... Or should I actually push for precise metric dimensions. Also, how important is the quality of the magnets. Your link, for example says N45. Would N35 be okay or too weak maybe? Would N48 be okay or too strong maybe? I don't know magnets or your toler
  8. Oooh! So true! Only used it once so far, but it really saved by butt.
  9. Hi gang, You know what got me to switch to TinkerGnome's firmware? Burn-in on the OLED screen (UM2)! This is how I learned that OLEDs, like old CRTs and unlike the LCDs we are all used to, *do*, in fact, get burn in and ghost images. OLED TVs can have this issue too, apparently. ThinkerGnome's firmware helps in two ways: 1) You can lower the screen brightness, and 2) you can have the screen blank after a while, i.e. a screen saver. That is what made me change. But having changed, I love it for all the other benefits. Better menus, more stats, more control, etc. My only (minor) gripes
  10. Hi @Artiz, I don't exactly know. I bought some unbranded polycarbonate on a weird white spool when I first got my printer and before PC-Max or any of these other branded ones existed. I do not know where it comes from or who made it, so I call it generic. The place where I bought it does not even carry it anymore. Later, PC-ABS, PC-Max and ... there is another PC-something, were created. I assume they have been more specially formulated for easier 3D printing, since they have lower temperature requirements, etc. So, if the new ones are easier to print and behave differently, then succes
  11. I see, cool! I'll go bug @Valcrow when the time comes. Thanks very much!
  12. Excellent! Very nice! So, mixing old and new = harder but cheaper. Using new and new means money but easier. Well, I am not afraid of hard. But I also really like the new feeder from the + kit. So if I can get the parts, I might go that way. Not sure I want to buy a whole other upgrade kit though. It is kind of expensive! Then again having a second Olsson block would be good too. ... I guess I will shop for parts and weigh my options. If explanations and a BOM are coming, then I will wait for those. I have other things to keep me occupied for now. Thanks very much for the feedbac
  13. I see. Well, you are sitting on a gold mine, I believe. Maybe Ultimaker can make and sell an experimental kit for you or something. Anyway, I did do the UM2+ upgrade, so I have all the old parts laying around anyway. And I already use TinkerGnome's firmware, so.... Hmm... This seems doable. Now you have the old hamster running in my head! I will have to cue this up after my backlog of prints and solving polycarbonate adhesion, but I think I am going to try this. One question then: If I make the modification, but want to print non-dual, normal prints. Are there any extra difficultie
  14. Man, I am totally drooling over this dual head setup! I am willing to throw money at anyone that makes this a buyable product/upgrade. I can haz upgradez? I know it takes time to make that kind of thing happen, but the wait is killing me! Then again, I do not want a rushed/half-baked product either. Damn it, I need patience ... or better yet, a time machine! Anyway, I am super impressed! Great Job @foehnsturm! You are a 3D printing rock star!
  15. Hi there. I have had that issue in the past too. But that was when Cura had the infill speed set too high (80m/s). Per forum suggestions, I lowered the infill speed and things worked fine after that. But if you are already print with all speeds slower (40mm/s) and still getting that result, then I do not know. Could it be the filament? What if you try a different filament and see what happens? Different materials, and even different brands can behave differently. Maybe also try hotter and/or slower until you can find new baseline working settings? Just some thoughts. Hope it helps.
  16. Yeah, I am in a similar boat. 5000hrs printing, quite a bit more just "on". ThinkerGnome's firmware both lets me reduce the brightness of the display and has the screen blanking. I appreciate both very much. Though, it is weird to see the printer printing with the lights and screen off. Seems like it is possessed or something!
  17. Hi folks, I also have this issue. It did some research on it and it seems that OLEDs are subject to burn-in. ... like old CRTS, and unlink LCDs! :( Some people, in the context of OLED TVs say that if you turn all the pixels on max and leave it for a long time, you can at least burn all the pixels to the same level and hide the ghosting. (Sounds dangerous to me!) But you cannot actually fix the problem once you have it. I was quite surprised that no one else has mentioned it until now. (not even me!) :( Thanks flowalistik! For me it occurred because I will put on 5 or 6 hour prints ove
  18. Hi gr5, Thanks for the feedback. I do already have an acrylic front plate, and I have been recently working on top covers. I found a couple cardboard boxes that fit very well (one from my new Siglent function generator and one from Amazon). They definitely help with ABS, so I assume they will with PC too. I also just (yesterday) found a plastic box (for storing papers) that fits really exceptionally well too, and is more sealed, so I am going to play with that. I did not think about preheating and letting it sit for a bit, though. That is a great idea! So, thanks very much!
  19. Hi there, I have am UM2+ with an I2K and TinkerGnome firmware. I am playing with polycarbonate filament. Not Polymaker, not PC-ABS, the plain old classic polycarb. This means I am struggling with bed adhesion and warping. I've done searching in the forum and looked on reprap.org, but I would like to know: Does anyone have a "one true ultimate super duper solution" to polycarbonate bed adhesion and warping? Or even something that mostly works? Should I just go with Buildtak or Wolfbite, or is there something better/cheaper/easier? I am currently hovering around the settings of 300 C h
  20. I saw a wile back that the guys at Adafruit.com have done tumbling and put up a guide: https://learn.adafruit.com/copperfill-filament/ See the Usage and Tips pages. It seems they also made their own tumbler: https://blog.adafruit.com/2015/07/16/affordable-rock-tumbler-3dthursday-3dprinting/ I have not tried any of this yet, but I hope this helps.
  21. Oh, and I just saw this, if it helps: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18249-creating-m6-thread
  22. Hi gang, I don't know Fusion360, but I did do some metric threading stuff last year that you might be interested in. I used openSCAD. The results are at: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/openscad-metric-nut-bolt-threads-library And the tread about it is at: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5548-experiment-with-threads (the bottom of page 2 is where things are working and there are images). I have not touched it since, but I hope it helps or is of interest.
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