Torgeir

Hi rwig, I use to print mostly at 182 - 183 deg. C. No problem at all.. The winning print object at 3dexpo 2016 was made with an UM2 go! Printing at 183 deg. C. Have a look here. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/4057-winning-3dexpo-make-rook-print Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi Avery, Make sure your initial layer is set to 0.1, you can even set it 0.08.. This will reduce the first layer pressure and may help. Still using my printer with the original feeder unit, but using a belt reduction gear (1:2) and a "200 step" (1.8 deg) stepper motor. I've also mirrored the feeder unit. I've never had any feeding issue with this setup. Thanks. Torgeir. Edit: You can also try to increase the feeder current, should be about 1250 mA.

Hi ShailenP, What you confirm here, tell me that it is the relay K1 that is broken! You did not confirm that the heat bed or the nozzle heater is working. So conclusion is that there is no 24 VDC for the steppers or the heaters to work with. And yes, the motherboard is the same for the UM2 / UM2 extended version. PS. In the beginning of my 3D printing, I got a problem with this relay. I.E. when turning off the 3D printer -the off switch did not work, the printer was not possible to turn off. The problem was a hanged up K1 relay. As I tapped (with the hand hold part off a screwdriver, small one) lightly on the relay the printer turned off.. It can work the other way as well, not turning on when master switch is operated. However, the master switch alone also feed the 5VDC to the processor and logic control, so your PT100 temperature sensors will work in this case. Good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi. None of the steppers is moving.. Aha. That's something, -but the heater(nozzle?) and the sensor (temperature PT100?) is working, right?? Then there must be 24 VDC present? This 24 VDC is controlled by the only relay on this board, K1. So If one of the safety jumpers is missing (J16 or J17), the relay would not operate and do not deliver power to; Bed, Heater 1, Heater 2, All Stepper Motors and the connector for fan to cool this PCB (J20). Good Luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi, Strange this.. Could it be that X or Y is swapped with Z stop switch? Assuming the printer was OK. before nozzle swap (no issue like this before maintenance). Just my 5 p. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi ForTheFuture, There is a number of dealers for Ultimaker in US, but I'll know that gr5 is in here and selling the parts you're looking for, -also he give you very good support. See his site here: http://thegr5store.com/store/ Thanks. Torgeir. Edit. Ops. Did not see your reply Ultiarjan.. Sorry.

Hi Folks, Had the same thing happen when I printed the Benchy boat with my UM2 .. Only thing that's removed all of this was to turn off the heat bed and using glue. Try this and you'll have a premium print! It's the heat from both, -the bed and the nozzle. This often occur when printing detailed objects with overhang close to the bed bottom. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi rssorensen, I'll think it is the flat flange inside the "Olsson" block that's skewed, might be the Chinese block(?). Same thing for the nozzle, the flat part going into the "Olsson" block need to be right. Imagine a vertical line passing through the assembled unit (from the middle of the front filament and through the mouthpiece), the two flat flanges should be angled 90 degrees with this vertical line. This two flanges is the actual sealing between the nozzle and the heat block. Maybe the first nozzle had a skewed flat (?) -then the problem started. Good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Yes, right you are. In order to clean out long time accumulated "dried dirt" you might need an ultrasonic cleaner in order to dissolve such stuff. Sometimes using this/such cleaning process really will show you how bad this bearing actually was.. The dirt keep the slack/play hidden.. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi neotko, a) They should do it when they install new bearings on the printer, -unless they have special order with (previous) pre lubricated (with proper spindle oil) bearings with some limited time to keep in store before installed. This is a standard practice that I'll think everyone dealing with such thing know about. b) No, No, this is the oil that the bearing is inhibited in, an oil to protect against corrosion during storage. I'm just talking about a brand new bearing that you like to install on your printer if is fails. Such a new bearing need to be cleaned then lubricated with the recommended type of oil. And Yes, this is the same brand of oil as used on the upper bearing. (Roller bearing need to roll in real oil, it is the oil film that's protect against wear and tear. Grease cant be used in this small ball bearing types.) However, if your bearing is old -but not worn out and you like to put some new oil into it, this mention cleaning/drying method and re oiling is the one to be used as well. I'll do hope this clear out things. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi neotko, Think petersm is right, the two large Z-shafts connected to the bed platform are using two "double sliding bearing" in each with 4 lines of roller bearing separated 90 deg. This kind of bearing is of same type as used inside the "extruder" sliding along the two 6 mm shafts (X and Y). So there will be used oil for lubrication in here. For the Z-screw jack on the stepper motor, green grease only. I'll think I saw something about it as well, but can't remember where, anyway – those kind of bearing must have "spindle" oil. As I've such a bearing in "stock" , -here's a picture to see. Worth to mention, this is a brand new bearing out of a sealed bag.. The oil used for storing is a conservation oil and do not work very well with this oil. So you'll need to clean out this conservation oil by using White Spirit, move the bearing when dipped into so that the "agent" flow through the bearing in order to dissolve this conservation oil. When done, dry the bearing using an air gun with a moderate flow so you do not risk blowing away bearing parts.. After dried, enrich the bearing cambers with "spindle" oil. Due to the capillar effect, the right amount of oil will remain inside. But just do this just before you're installing a new bearing. This procedure is valid for all type of bearing of this type, unless otherwise is noted. Hope this clear out. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi Folks, May by I can help a little here.. This fan is connected to J14 on the main board right? And we're talking about the two cooling fans (each 12 VDC) connected in serial? Those fans are connected to a transistor (T1) BC817 and can handle absolute max current of 500 mA (milli Ampere). However, we've to stay below 200 mA here to be safe, as this transistor has no heat sink installed. This transistor is controlled by a PWM (pulse with modulated) signal from the main board. Ref. Main Board V.2.1.1 Good luck. Thanks. Torgeir. Edit: Forgot to mention the specs. on my fans, they are: 12 VDC and draw max 150 mA. Thx.

Hi Markus, When looking at this first layer of PVA (the second extruder) it seems to be to high above the bed. I.E. it is not squeezed to the bed, I'd assume it should look a little "flatten out" looking. The skirt (PVA) looks to be "kind" of good, -so could it be something about height "now and then" different when switching head to number two? Anyway, good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Thanks Krys, really helps. Regards Torgeir.

Hi krys, Happy new year. Well, I never did a flow test like you did, neither the high temp 300 deg. C! I do have a little bulging in the front of the shroud, assuming this is due to the very close heat block. I'm only using absorbent of "glass fiber" as insulation, that's work well at all the other places but not in the front. Maybe I should try with the Kapton tape you're using.. Did you use infill when printed Labern's shroud? Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi Folks, Very interesting. I would remove both cores and investigate closely inside with a good flash light. If you just hold the cover lightly toward the position where it stop, you might be able to see the problem here. Also, as there is a fan inside the cover, -is this one installed right? Study the hinges to see there is no "sudden stop/hard stop" that's preventing a free swing in. Maybe the taped cover is just used as a transport protection. Well, just my 5 p. Good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi krys, I would say, Laberns shroud is very much better. So how; it has a better "fluid dynamic" design hence delivering more flow, also the "pressure center" is "right" in the middle of the nozzle and here the flow go downward. As it is printed with a 3D printer, the layer lines improve the air flow.. The weight is only 9.5 gram (no infill), the very old shroud weight is 24.1 gram and the "new +" shroud is about 16 gram. The very good thing about Laberns shroud is that how much better printing overhang is improved. And finally, it does not make vibrating noise due to high energy short stepping. IMHO. Anything that is reducing the extruder assembly weight is well invested. Next may be to "gun drill" the two 6 mm shafts that is part of the "extruder assy" weight. Oh. yes I've been using Laberns shroud for about half a year now. So I'll say, again; Thank you Labern, well done! Here's two test pictures (SLA) showing overhang (macro picture), printed with 70 micron 183 deg. C. 60 deg. C heat bed. The first one with top and bottom layer and the second one without top an bottom layer. Just wall and infill. With, ofc. Olsson block and Laberns shroud. You'll find info about model and more here: http://archive.fabacademy.org/2016/greenfablab/students/13/Week5.html And the pictures: Here's the "normal" print. And here's the print without top and bottom layers. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi Folks, I've looked at this in a few days. Could this be a too large Y setting (normally should be 223) in Cura defining the size of the bed? Assuming a to large defined bed, so when the printer go to the fwd start point it will try to go this extra step and hit the hard stop a number of times? This may explain why it can continue printing and print an object Ok. ? Just a thought.. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi rwig, Welcome in here and happy new year! The first thing to do before installing a new filament is to cut it with a 45 deg. angle. Well, not any 45 deg. angle, but the one leaving a tip on the outer side of the filament curve! Ok., hers a picture. Not the best picture, but look at the shadow then you'll see what I mean. Beware, you have a feeder installed on the left hand side (never seen this version?), anyway you see how the cut should be. If you do this, there should be no problem. So to the last screw you could not remove; -well this is the last screw and trying to remove this screw without supporting (holding the stepper motor inside cabinet to avoid it to falling down) may lead to this problem, but not likely.. Put the 3 screws back in and try this; Normally you can remove it easily by holding on the feeder with the left hand and pulling the filament with the right hand (some hard) firmly right out of the feeder, even if it is "grinded some" it should come out. (An alternate method to remove filament piece of PLA (?) trapped in the feeder is to release the feeder roller by using a plastic rod, but we might come back to this if needed..) Here is two detail pictures of the feeder unit with filament (and stepper motor); Filament cuted the right way beside the feeder unit. Next, is with the filament installed and visible cut direction after passing the feeder and normally here inside the bowden tube. Ok., good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi Ursuppe, Well, a little hard question to answer, -however, a faulty power supply can make such thing happen-.. Even a spike in the main can do this during startup and give you all kind of strange messages or sensor reading.. So, a reset can be a good thing to do and it also tell you some "strange" things just happened. Just ignore this first one, but do notice in case it happen again. Thanks. Torgeir.

Got up to an hour with not error. I touched the braided cable and lifted it slightly and then got the ER02 error. Hi justinkd, I'll assume we're talking about the cable going from the bed and into the left inner corner? This is actually the one that will fail after some "thousand" printing hour, but very much depend of how it is routed. The weak points is close to the heat bed, or just in the left corner. If your cable loom move mostly at those two places, they likely tend to break just here. Intermittent on off "contacts" is typical for this issues. This cable loom should bend evenly over the length, strain relieved in the corner and at the heat bed. Good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi DeathMachine, Oh yes, I've been using this setup all the time since I built my printer. When I did so, I installed the feeder unit as the designer meant it to be installed, with the knurled wheel toward the inside of the filament loop. I've never had any problem with the feeder! As there was complains about to lo torque at the feeder, I just installed a 1.8 deg. stepper motor (200 step/rev) (At that time I did not have a 400 step/rev stepper). So I used a belt gear with 2 pulleyes (1:2 ratio) and same belt as used for the X/Y steppers (the short belt). This to avoid to many different parts and to lift the feeder a little bit higher (can use shorter bowden tube, if you want = less friction). By doing this, I was able to use exactly same firmware as the original UM2 with better torque for the feeder and avoiding a "heated" knurled feeder wheel. Today I can lift and lock up the roller and feed the filament easily all the way to the extruder using the original UM2 feeder unit. Yes, this original feeder unit is good! Here's the little test print that Wizard bought up for us to use. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409 I've just used standard adjustments with lo temp at nozzle 0.25, 70 micron at 183 deg. C., so here's a little stringing and some opening in the top layer. But overhang and angles is perfect, those printers is great! Happy printing and New Year! Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi Robert, What a great write up, thanks a lot.. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi DeathMachine, No, you are not alone for sure! I'm using the old firmware from 15.04.6 and this is the best match for an UM2 IMHO.. If I want a predictable print, I'm using Cura 15.04.6 period. I'm also using S3D, but mostly for monitoring the "gcode files" (the model) as this really give you a true picture of what to expect. Sorry, but the new versions have to many issues, so I'll wait until all this is some stabilized. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi justinkd, Welcome in here! We'll need to know the kind of printer (Ultimaker?) you have in order to give an advice about this. But basically, you swapped and confirmed a difference, so next thing to check is the wiring from the connector (on main board side) to the attachment screw at your heat bed. This just to verify that the wiring itself is good. Then you have to check from the screw at the heat bed, the resistance of the PT100 thermistor (if this is the type used in your printer), if it is PT100 - there should be a resistance around 110 Ohm (around 20 deg. C). If you have the green colored screw terminal, make sure that the wire size is high enough to fill up so you have good clamping when tightening the screw. But do not over tightening here. In this green connector block, the upper half and lo part is not connected together.. The lo part inside here is connected to the thermistor. Lastly, you can even measure the thermistor resistance directly on the heat bed PCB, across the resistor itself in order to verify. Well, just some general things. Thanks. Torgeir.