Torgeir

Hi jonatanrullman, This is an undefined error type related to the printer firmware, try to update you printers firmware. From the picture I see that this is an UM2 or UM2+. There is some report about about this problems, so have a look into this thread: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/7968-error-stopped-heater-error/ You'll find your error type a bit down in this tread. Thanks Torgeir

Hi |Robert|, Sure agree with you here, -why I reacted on this value is simply because that over the years I've been replacing quite a number of PT100 (in the aviation) and all of them was found "open" I.E. measures infinitely high resistance, but ofc. a short may be possible as well. As the reading is quite close to the heater resistance, it's just makes me wonder because this is a brand new unit.. Happy New Year. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Tor, Sorry to break in here, but your measuring is kind of strange.. 12 Ohm is not right here, -but a bell is ringing.. This value is not very far from the expected resistance to be measure at the nozzle heater element wires. So try to measure the heater element and let us know this value. Kind of weird, but could those two wires have been swapped? The heater and the PT100? On the connector for the PT100 there should be two red wires connected to one pin and a transparent (or white) wire to the other pin? Sometimes there is only one red and one transparent on each pin at the nozzle temp sensor connector going to the main PCB (printed circuit board) Temp1 connector. As Robert said, there should be about 108 Ohm at room temperature from a PT100 sensor, so approx same resistance at the bed and nozzle sensor! Well, just my 2p.. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Ghostfather, Welcome in here. Have a look at this link about your problem. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, Forgot to mention the benefits of using Copper Paste in this way. 1) Improving heat transfer in between the components in the heat block. 2) Prevent seizure of nozzle, heater, PT100 etc. 3) Also serve as a "secondary sealing" of nozzle and "cold junction nut" (the steel nut attached to the heath block and coupler). If you use Copper paste this way, be careful and prevent adding this paste into the nozzle or inside the heat block. Another interesting thing to note is that; the copper paste is the second best heat transfers compound commercially available. The best one is “Silver pasta grease”, however this one start to loose the thermal conductivity at around (120 – 150) deg. C. and Copper go to about 300 deg. C (Celsius). For seizure typically (1000-1100( deg. Celsius! The thermal conductivity difference between those two is less than 5%. Price more than 10 times. In the Ultimaker 2 assembly manual at page 50; it is stated that the copper paste grease is used here to prevent corrosion. But to me it looks like the heath transfer between the “cold junction nut” and the “cold block” (the radiator and the upper/lo aluminum squares), is a second reason for using Copper paste in here. Attached page 50 from the Ultimaker 2 assembly manual: Thanks Torgeir.

Hi kbtwining, Welcome into the Ultimaker Community. You made a very good description of your problem and it seems to be a known problem.. After reading through your post, we'll be very interested to know how is your PLA filament behaving after 3 years of storage? Does it become brittle and break off with a "snap"? This is typically for old PLA that's been attracting some humidity over time. What's happen is that the PLA tend to break inside the bowden tube, but still will be feed all the way through the tube and to the extruder. However; between the end of the bowden tube and the coupler (the white Teflon adapter you see inside the spring at the extruder), there is a little gap and at this place the filament tend to hook up preventing anymore feeding. So, do not change anything but just have a new fresh roll of new PLA and do another try. PLA have to be stored in a "controlled" environment; humidity as lo as possible, normally less than 17% humidity and in darkness. However, this is another topic.. PLA can be renewed to some level, -but again another topics. Good Luck. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Folks, Congratulation with a new "home" Ultimaker! Much better Thanks. This topic about nozzles is interesting as this is one of the most important little detail of the printer.. As I'm using the original (25W) heater and PT100 sensor from the UM2 standard heath block on a OB with a 0.4mm nozzle. I noted some difference between the old and the new. The feeding speed was not that impressive. -So I used the copper grease on the nozzle thread in order to improve the heath transfer from the heath block to the nozzle. Also filled the two holes in the OB for the heater and the PT100 sensor. Then heated it up step by step, in order to clean off the volatile substances from the grease dripping of the block. Gradually increasing the temperature until 230 deg. Celsius. Also insulated the OB to avoid heath leak. After this treatment, the whole thing really improved much. I made a feeder test (the cylinder) and started printing at 205 deg. C. When the temp decreased 1 deg. C. during the printing, I increased the temp one more deg. C. At the very end of this print the heat block temp was 207 deg. Celsius. I'm using a standard UM2 feeder, belt geared 1:2, -but the BIG difference here is that I'm driving the filament on the inside of the looped filament. NOT on the outside of the filament as Ultimaker do it -and this little difference make a BIG reduction of the friction! All filaments with memorized roll up, -will improve feeding when feed from inside the filament loop. This mean to mirror the UM2 feeder and change rotation direction. Thanks. Torgeir

Hi Mike, Great and make sure that there is no short or suspected connection inside the new extruder unit, as this is very rare that it is just happen like that.. The new board looks right.. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Neotko, Long time no see.. Your observation is sure correct, the diodes decrease the power to the stepper coils (the heat created on the diode pack). So there is always a kind of "drawback" when we make correction for single issues. There is a third - way to overcome such a problem we see in this setup, if we want to have the best result here.. This is to move the drivers as close as possible to the steppers in order to avoid such a high "harmonic ringing" in the stepper feeder wires. However, the driver have to be separated from the stepper to avoid the heath from the stepper motor. (This is not very easy to do on the UM2 versions.) The long feeder wires, especially on the extended versions, create additional inductance to the whole circuit and make this problem worse. Edit: To relocate the drivers increase complexity and ofc. the price, but there is room and possibility on an Ultimaker for sure.. I was thinking of moving the mother board high up on the back side of the printer (an ext ver) in order to decrease the feeder length, but never did. Hmm. Maybe I'll try this, but later on.. Anyway, very interesting topic, keep up the good work. Regards Torgeir.

Ops. forgot to mention that the 5V regulator is U6 and the type is: A4403GEUTR-T. Torgeir.

Hi Mike, Just some toughs, since your computer have been working for quite some time, I'll suggest there might be a faulty wiring inside your new extruder as the hot end cooling fan is directly wired to +5VDC without any fuse. Maybe there is a short all the time and the protection circuit would not turn on because of a constant short. So, try to unplug the 5 V fan (J34) and try to power the printer up.. Anyway, we have the full wiring for this card (V2.1.1) and I'm using the same one as you. Here is a direct link to this PCB. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Mike, Check TP76 or TP77, this is the VCC/2 voltage that should be switched 24 VDC and present when the printer on/off switch is on. Edit. If this voltage is present, your 5VDC regulator might be faulty. If there is no voltage present at those test points, your printer on/off switch might be faulty. Good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi Zeki, Just been looking into your posting here and noticed you've got lots of good advices here. As I've got a «similar» printer as you have, I'll have noticed a few issues to comment. But first, the feeder stepper motors used in UM2 and UM2+ is different and the main difference is the number of steps per rev (360 deg.). UM2 use a 400 step/rev. stepper motor and UM2+ use a 200 step/rev. stepper motor. If the filament have heavy marks (dented), then, how much tension is your feeder set to? Normally it should be between the lo pressure mark and half mark setting (the middle is about max I'm using). The tension indicator is located on the right side of your feeder unit, locking into shaft (the old type). The upper position of the mark, is the lo tension, turning the umbraco (hex) screw counterclockwise increase pressure.. Heavy markings, takes a lot of the torque from the stepper motor.. As you now manage to have the heath bed properly adjusted, actually very close to the bed, this will increase the feeder pressure somehow, especially when making the initial layer. So for an UM2, reduce the speed for the initial layer to 15 mm/sec. This will reduce the torque your feeder have to cope with and should helps a lot here. Another thing to mention, is the temperature for the nozzle when using PLA, -well «normally» I'll never go higher than 204 Degrees Celsius. My best prints is usually done at about 186 deg. C. and at 30 mm/s print speed. Assuming you bought this printer second hand(?), -so if nothing can improve, you might consider go for a full upgrade kit to have an UM2+.. Will almost be as a brand new printer. Edit: Just wrote this, when I'm saw you mail just arrived.. This could just be some remains partly blocking your nozzle, or a squezed coupler (the insulator block) on top of the extruder block. For the nozzle to clear, try the “atomic-metod” and see if this clear the nozzle you might do it several times.. Here is how: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19510-how-to-apply-atomic-method It is very important to follow this methode as it is described! The coupler have to be replaced. Anyway, good luck. Thanks. Torgeir

Hi Lies, Absolutely you'll need to upgrade the firmware to make the motor change direction - as well. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Silures, When you are using your multi meter as shown, you are measuring between one power wire for the heat bed and one sensor wire from the PT100 temp sensor. The voltage you see here is normal, but have no meaning for our use.. Actually there should be no voltage present to the heat bed as your PT100 temp sensor is not working correctly! When measuring the heat bed power, you have to measure between the two gray wires. When measuring the PT100 sensor you measure between the two black wires. Your printer should never been powered when doing this measuring as we do not measure voltage, but resistance. So, disconnect the bed temp sensor when measuring resistance (as gr5 adviced), (no power on the printer) and measure on your bed between the two terminal points where the two black wires are connected. If you find the resistance to be between (108-112) ohm your PT100 is probably OK. Next point to measure is at the connector (still unconnected to the main PCB). As you already have swapped temp 1 and temp 3, we know that your bed temp sensor is out of tolerance. Carry out the above test, using the setting on your multi meter as shown on the added picture. Then measure at the connector using needle or wire links from arduino kits etc. Here is the first picture of your multi meter indicating the correct setting for measuring resistance. Here is a picture of how to measure a PT100 temp sensor at the connector. Zoom in to see the two other places might be used.. Note: When measuring resistance, connect red and black pin together and check that the resistance is 0 ohm or very close to zero! When those to pin is disconnected from each other the reading is normally OL (open line). Good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi Lance, I'm very sorry to hear this. As I've read trough your description of the failure, this must be a kind of slow heating (restricted current) that is detected over "some time" by the firmware that stop the program due to a heater failure. Could this be the power wires for the heat bed, connection at the bed terminal or at the main PCB. If there is such a failure there is always some sign of overheating where the failure occur. Color change, brownish burnt etc. Also look at the feeder cables, if there is an interrupted connection along the cable some place you will see this easily. Since this occur at a certain level of height, the failure might be in the bed power feeder. Look at the strain relief at the bed as the wire tend to break here or, at the other place where the wire also may bend in the inner left corner. The error code / observation is just the same in both cases. Hope you find the problem and good luck. Thanks. Torgeir

Hi again.. Too bad that internet is not very good right here. Lost 90 percent of the mail.. So see you sometime next week. Torgeir.

Hi Silures, As I've had to go to Ireland, there was no way to answer in here.. Well, you see the power of this site, lots of help in here.

Hi Silures, This is kind of strange as you said you measure 20 V at the heat bed.. Cause the whole printing program normally stop and there should not be any voltage present at the terminal point were the two grey wires are connected. Well, unless there is some other firmware allowing this (?) -but doubt in this matter. If you use the resistance function of your multi meter, does it show close to 0 ohm when the measuring pins are shorted? Further, across the two terminal screws (use the pins directly on the two screw for the temp sensor), here the resistance should be around (108-110*) ohm in room temperature? (*)Edited The problem with the PT100 sensor have often been located to the terminal contact point. Those two black wires are kind of tiny, so strip the insulation twice as long as needed then twist each of the wires a litte and fold it back so the length of bare wire is correct. The idea of this is to obtain more of area into the clamping and make the conduction better at this point. Same can actually be done for the two power wires, yes in this case -only on the board with screw terminals. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi birdy100, It does not matter as the whole heath bed is floating. I.E. None of the two connector terminals for the heath bed are connected to ground. Same is true for the PT100 temp sensor on the heath bed, where the two black wires are connected. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi Silures, Well, what happened when you swapped the connectors Temp1 and Temp3? If the failure swapped from Temp3 to Temp1, you have a faulty wiring for bed temperature! So, If this is true, it should be very simple to confirm by using an ohm meter. Note; if there is an intermittent failure in this wiring, the failure may come on an go off as the bed is riced or lowered. This due to an intermittent contact when the wiring is moving due to bed height level changes. If nothing changed, you have some failure in the firmware (telling there is a bed temp error) or that there is a real hardware failure on your main PCB. The statement of this check will tell us what part of the system we'll find the error / the failure. So what happened? Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi nerdwarrior, You should change this Terminal Block. Here is a picture I made from the terminal block to see the connector lip in half way closed position. The material in here is Tin plated Copper. Maybe we can see this lip if you turn the screw clockwise to lift the lip. Did the wires for the heat bed show any sign of overheated, burnt black etc.? If you touch (trying to heat) the PT100 resistor with your finger, there should not be any big jump in the reading - maybe 1 ohm "more", this cause the aluminium plate is connected to the resistor. Here is the P/N number of the used Terminal Block: MKDS 1/ 4-3,81 SMD And here is where you find them: http://www.tme.eu/gb/details/mkds1_4-3.81smd/pcb-terminal-blocks/phoenix-contact/mkds-1-4-381-smd-bk-1727256/ OK., good luck. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Silures, Welcome in here. This error indicate that there is an error with the PT100 as the resistance is out of tolerance. And this is the only errors that immediately end the printing program.. The right thing to do here is to measure the PT100 resistance from the connector located at the main PCB "TEMP3". Remove this connector and measure the resistance on this connector (should be around 108 ohm at room temperature (22 deg C)). You could also swap the two connectors TEMP1 and TEMP3 to see the failure will swap from "heat bed sensor" to "temp sensor". This wiring from the hear bed to the PCB should last very long, but in some cases they break or suffer for intermittent contact at the heat bed connector. Go to this place to find more info about the system, also download the UM2 manual to find more information if needed. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/160-error-messages Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi Lance, Here is some pictures of the process. This is the first error I've got. Here is the faulty relay K1. Faulty relay removed from PCB, solder to be removed from mounting holes. New relay installed beside the heating outputs, 3 ea. The stepper motor output drivers, 5 ea -and all seven receive power from K1! This picture is made just before the PCB cover is installed. (Note, there is no brownish color around the stepper drivers due to heat, could this be due to the two fan installed?) This last picture show the two brands of relay I found, including the Arduino 2 relay module holding same types of relay as installed on the PCB I have in my printer. OK., this was all and good luck. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi xenon, Have a close inspection to the "led wiring" going around the corners to the upper horizontal led strip. Make sure there is no contact toward the pulleys or shafts. Another weak point might be where the led wiring is routed through the hole in the fwd left corner (toward the bottom located PCB). Good luck. Thanks, Torgeir.