Smithy

PVA gets soft very quickly in higher humidity. So store it always in a bag or box and when you do longer prints consider to buy a DryBox or something like that.

When you increase the number of wall count to a high number (i.e. 99) then only walls are printed and it should look like the blue one.

Ja das stimmt, die sind langlebiger als die alten.

Humidity and temperature could have an effect on the print quality and also on the material itself. But when you say it is always on the same spot it is unlikely that it is the reason. On the other hand when the spot is for example an overhang or a more complicated part to print on your object, then it could have an effect.

Gerne 😉

Doch, da werden auch die äiußeren Abmessungen verändert. Ob du die Düsen einfach umstellen kannst, hängt vom Druckerprofil ab. Ich habe keinen Ender, daher kann ich das nicht sagen. ABER, es ist egal, denn du kannst einfach die Linienbreite ändern z.B. auf 0.25 wenn du eine 0.25er Düse dann drinnen hast und es ist der gleiche Effekt. Aber ehrlich wenn du den Flieger mit 0.25er Düse druckst, wird das eine Ewigkeit dauern. Ich würde da wirklich hoch skalieren oder spielt dich mit der Horz. Expansion, muss ja nicht gleich 1mm sein, vielleicht reicht auch schon weniger.

I was in the same situation last year and I got the best result with normal soap and I tried before some sprays and other things. Acteone is too aggresive and will probably damage the finish and IPA is mostly not able to remove the dirt.

You can abort the print from the printer itself, not from Cura. I don't know the menu name out of my head, but there are only 2 menus, in one of them there is the possibility to abort.

Na wenn du mit "schweren" Gerät anrückst, dann wäre es besser gleich das ganze Objekt zu skalieren, das kannst du links in der Menüleiste machen. Mit Horizintal Expansion erreichst du zwar ähnliches, aber nur in X/Y Richtung und nicht nach Z d.h. dein Flieger ist dann etwas niedrig für größere Flugpassagiere 🙂

Du kannst nur versuchen in Cura die Option "Print thin walls" zu aktivieren, wie die Option im deutschen Cura heisst musst du schauen. Ob das wirklich hilft ist fraglich, kommt darauf an wie dünn die Flügelspitzen sind. Aber es kann auch sein, dass es gar nicht druckbar ist, zumindest nicht mit der 0.4er Düse.

I also think the feeder is fine. The reason for a clicking noise from the feeder is mostly a clogged nozzle. The feeder tries to move the filament forward, but can't and then the gear wheel slips trough. When you swap the cores, be sure to use the AA print core. The BB core is for PVA material only. But normally the load process extrudes until you confirm it or a timeout occurs (if you forgot to confirm) but during this time it extrudes a lot of material.

Try another print core if you have one left. If not or if it is working with an other print core, you nozzle is probably clogged and needs some cleaning. Check out the instructions on the UM website how to clean your print core or follow the instructions from the printer menu.

Ahh BB Core, das habe ich übersehen. Ja dann ist auch schon klar, woher die Warnung kommt.

It doesn't stop extruding after such a short time. It stops when you don't press confirm but you have another problem. So check it the print core is clean and not clogged. Do some hot/cold pulls as described on the UM website. Check your feeder, is it clean and is the feeder tension marker in the middle position? During the load, did you hear some clicking noise coming from the feeder? If you want to do a quick test, unload the print core and use another one, just to see if it is the core or the feeder.

Agreed, you will need the parts in the kit anyway someday 🙂

No, but there is a plugin in the marketplace which is called custom supports. I haven't tried it, but it should do what you want.

Hallo Wenn ich das richtig verstanden habe, dann willst du 2 unabhängige Modelle drucken, nur halt mit unterschiedlichen Materialien, richtig? Das würde ich nicht empfehlen, da bist du besser dran, wenn du eines nach dem anderen druckst. Die Fehlermeldung mit dem Profil wird deshalb kommen, weil Cura meint, dass die beiden Filamente nicht zusammenpassen und bietet dir deswegen keine weiteren Profile mehr an. Cura geht nicht davon aus, dass die beiden unabhängig sind.

It is too late but your website link says: Compatible with Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker 2 Extended, Ultimaker 2 Extended+, Ultimaker 2 Go, Ultimaker 2+ So they should fit and on the picture they look good for me.

So you get an error, which one? Check if the two wires (red/white) are suited well and if the connector on the back of the printhead is connected. Maybe reconnected it to be sure.

Great to hear that you are back in business. I am just curious, but I think you have just unplugged the power cable and the printer was still switched on that the capacitor was able to discharge right?

In the past I bought a lot of Colorfabb, but then tried Filamentum and they are also great, have nice colours and are much cheaper than Colorfabb. So if I need new spools I will buy probably Filamentum.

No, the brands I usually buy, Colorfabb, Extrudr, Fillamentum, 3DJake have both sizes available.

No, the PT100 of the hot end should be connected to Temp 1 Temp 2 is not used. Temp 3 is for the heated bed.

Shock! 😲 So you moved the connector from pin to pin until the error was gone? Probably not good..... Check this thread and check if everything is connected as it should.

The two side fans are the cooling fans for the printed part, this is important but it is not the root cause for your problems. The cooling fans are also off for the first layer normally. How much cooling fans you use depends on the material and shape of your model. For PLA you can use 100%, for ABS much less to get a better layer bonding.