Smithy

Hmm? network is not available for the UM2 so this is not the reason. Have you added the printer as an UM2+ Extended? Can you post a screenshot of your machine settings page like mine above? Which Cura version do you use?

Yes, but when these 15 devices are capable to handle the new configuration than it is still not good for the UM3 when it can't handle it. Compare step by step what you have changes from the settings. Also the SSID itself can make problems. I had a device which was not able the handle the SSID name.

I doesn't mean that you need to configure that on the UM3, but on your router. I guess you use now different settings than with the old router. Or some defaults on the new router are different.

But anyway, printing via USB is not the best solution, because you permanently stream the gcode to the printer. When something happens on your computer your printer stops and the job failed. So even if it is annoying to handle the sd card, it is the best and safest solution.

But why do you think it is not the router when it was working before? You probably use now other encryptions or different settings. So I would carefully compare the wifi settings with the old router. Using 2.4GHz and normal WPA2 encryption should work.

That reminds me of the Gardena / HDMI adapter 🤣

You have Marlin as GCode flavour, believe me.... 😀

You can manually edit the gcode file or play with the post processing plugins and do a search/replace.

Check in Cura in the printer settings if you have Marlin as GCode flavor. This is important to set the temperature in Cura, otherwise you have to configure the material in the printer itself.

Filament/material itself, some cheap filaments are brittle.

Great, the printer looks like a new one! Have fun with it, it is a fantastic printer....

Can have several reasons. Do you use one of the default profiles in Cura? What about your feeder, is it clean and the wheel not worn out? How old is your Bowden tube? Is your middle fan, in the print head working? What about your filament? Is it a new one or have you already printed with the white one? I would try to print a model with just the default profile and another filament to see what happens.

Wichtig bei ABS ist, dass du keinen Bauteillüfter verwendest, also Cooling abstellen. Ansonsten würde ich zurück zum Default Profil, das funktioniert und wenn du damit keine Layerhaftung bekommst, dann mit der Temperatur etwas rauf. Welches ABS Material ist das? Es gibt welche die sind sehr einfach zu drucken wie das UM ABS und dann gibt es welche, die lassen sich fast gar nicht vernünftig drucken.

Updating the firmware is generally safe, but nobody can ensure 100% that nothing happens. But if something happens, most of these issues can be easily resolved by the user itself, like restarting or like this case, leave the printer switched off overnight. In case it is really bricked and nothing works anymore, you will get instructions from your reseller how to unblock it again, so there is normally no need to bring the printer back to service.

I would not worry about it, there are for sure only a few cases where something happens during delivery. But when you want to buy at MatterHackers, ask them if they have any alternatives.

I have a lot of printers, UM2+ Ext, UM3, S3, S5 and also a Prusa. I can say, nothing is more reliable than the UM printers. The Prusa is nice for kids or for pure hobby usage, when it works it prints good. The MMU is another story, I sold it after 2 weeks, the concept or idea behind is not bad, but the part itself is shit and cheap. And it works only with much luck without any user intervention. I had only one print job which was running fine from the start to the end. For all other jobs I got alerted every few minutes. Yes it is very reliable, I have rare issues and when there is an issue, it was my fault. Regarding PVA it is very important that you keep the PVA spool really dry and if you print a lot with PVA, also during printing. Most PVA problems here on the forum are due to bad PVA spools. PVA absorbs quickly moisture from the air and then gets soft and sticky. Both are not the best parameters for the filament sensor. So if you plan to print a lot with PVA consider to buy the S5 Pro bundle with the material station or another external solution of your choice. I use it not very often because I don't have the need, but when I am away and need to do something remotely, the Digital Factory works fine, without problems. Every other print job is sent directly via local LAN to the printer. I don't use the wifi connection, so I cannot say how stable it is. Some user reported problems with the wifi, but with an ethernet cable I have no issues. Yes, ready to print, no problems. I know you mean the one post in the forum, but this is a single case where the printer was not in the original package as far as I can remember, it was a used one. The printer is well packed, there is nearly no chance that something could be damaged. But if the delivery guy throws the printer of the car from 1.5 meters, then nothing will 100% withstand. To be honest I had no serious issues yet with the UM printers and my S5 is 2 years old now. I also print still with the print cores that came with the printer and I have cleaned it one time in these 2 years. (ok maybe I am too lazy and I should do it more often, but I have no problems) No, I don't have it. I always update to the latest firmware and never had any issues with it. Yes as already said in the beginning of my post. I also never looked to any other brand, because I like the printers itself and also the whole ecosystem. Everything works fine and easy. For example when you want to print with another filament brand which is probably not as easy as PLA, I check the Marketplace in Cura, decide to buy material xyz and then load the profile from the marketplace. The profile is automatically synced to the printer and you can start your print job. I never printed or played with temperature towers or such things. The journey to the Prusa was a test and because I was interested what is behind the hype. But it is nothing which is comparable. And personally I don't like the 1.75mm filament, it is often tricky to handle and you get quickly tangled spools. It is also a bead idea to have 1.75mm and 2.85mm printers, because you need both filaments on stock. Not very often in my case, but it depends how often you change material. When you print a lot with different materials than it can happen, especially if these materials need different print temperatures. So in that case it would be better to use dedicated print cores for specific materials, i.e. one for PLA and another one for ABS. But when you should have a clogged print core you have guided instructions in the printer menu to clean the nozzle again. The BB print core for PVA needs a little bit more attention, but when you clean in proactively from time to time, you should be fine. The switchable print core concept is also fine to keep the printer up and running. If you really have issues with a core, just swap it to another one and you are back in business. The clogged core can be cleaned later when you have time. I hope I could help a litte bit.

I clean my glass plates with soap and water. After drying I wipe the plate with alcohol. But I apply always a very thin layer if glue too. It is much safer that everything sticks really well. I made a short video, because I think most people use the glue stick in a wrong way.

I am glad I could help 😉

Here you have instructions how to align the axles, but to fix the play it is basically the same. https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004168943-Aligning-the-Axes When you have just one axle then it is enough to open the set screw and push the pulley to the cover and tighten the screw again. More details in the document. The instructions on the UM website are offline for some reasons. I already reported it to UM that they put the instructions back online.

But be careful, to tune it to get only 4 lines. There is reason why the other model has 6 lines and it is normally ok. The methods I mentioned above are settings when you really need or want the 4 lines and if you set too extreme values you can get other visual problems. But other question, have you printed the blue one yourself? I mean do you know the nozzle size and other settings of this model?

Can you check if the glass is really flat? Maybe turn the plate and print again, just to see if there is any difference. That the printhead is push up a little bit is normal, but you should see this also in other spots during the leveling.

You are welcome 🙂 Try different settings and values in Cura and check the preview. So you can quickly try different settings without printing every version.

You gave us not much information so how should we help?

I would say the line width is wider on the blue one. So you can try to slightly increase the line width, but not too much, it should basically match your nozzle size, but you can try to set a higher value. i.e for a 0.4 nozzle a line width of 0.5 And it seems the bed leveling is much better with the blue one. The other object looks like that the distance nozzle/bad is a bit too big, so you can also level your bed again, that the first layer gets more squished into the bed which results in bigger line widths. But generally the amount of lines matches the thickness of the model and is a result of the line width together with the nozzle size. So for example, nozzle 0.4 = line width 0.4. The wall on the model has a thickness of 1.2mm. Then you print 3 lines a 0.4 = 1.2mm In the above example it is also possible that the blue model was printed with a bigger nozzle, maybe 0.6.

I think I don't understand your question, can you explain it a little bit more please?