Smithy

Sehr gerne! 🙂

Hier noch ein Link zu einem Support Artikel: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011474120-Lift-switch-calibration

Im Menü des Druckers findest du einen Menüpunkt um diese Umschaltung zu Kalibrieren. Ich weiß jetzt nicht genau wo, aber irgendwo unter Wartung/Maintenance, Print Cores oder so. Dann einfach den Anweisungen folgen. Der Druckkopf fährt in die Home Position und dann bewegst du per Hand den Kopf zum dem Winkel. Steht aber eh genau beschrieben.

Ich glaube die wenigsten kaufen Matchless Düsen.

It is the same as PLA, so I would not use it for a lamp. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/360010175560/TDS_Tough_PLA_RB-en.pdf

One more thing, when my Cura looses the connection (often after I disconnect from a VPN connection) the "Print over network" button after slicing is also gone. In that case the reconnect via the settings pages works well.

It really depends if you currently have something in Cura or not. A Cura restart is maybe faster than jumping in the settings menu, click the button and so on, but before you have to save the project the other way is maybe better. Its up to you 🙂

Looks quite ok! Thats the best way, tune it during printing when you see under extrusion, otherwise I would keep the print temp low.

I rarely print temperature towers, because I never got a clear result which temp I should use. It also depends on your model. I print a lot with the 0.8 core and normally use the default temp settings and don't touch it. I only adjust it +5°C or 10°C if I print with 0.4 layer height and faster. You should also keep in mind that you get not the details you know from the 0.4 core and that the whole print is not so nice and smooth. Also bridges are not very beautiful as you can see.

Sure, the reconnect in Cura doesn't disturb your print job.

These screws were used before the S5 for the case and other covers. So 2 options, maybe the S5 uses this kind of screw for the bottom cover or it is a "blind passenger" 🙂 I would not worry about it, these screws (round or the new flat ones) are for cover and chassis and not for something important in the printer.

Cura looses sometimes the connection or thinks it is lost. A Cura restart help or when I don't want to restart, I go to the printer settings page and click the connect button there and the connection is back normally.

Oh, vergiss was ich geschrieben habe, du meinst ja die Löcher im Inneren und nicht die Punkte aussen die als Markierung dienen. Sorry!

Ich kenne die Matchless Düsen nur vom Namen, aber bei den Punkten ist es eigentlich so: 0.25 - kein Punkt 0.4 - ein Punk 0.6 - zwei Punkte 0.8 - drei Punkte zumindest bei meinen Düsen.

Via network means locally or remote? Cura can only show the stream on the local network. If you need it remotely then you have to go to the digital factory if you have connected your printer to the DF.

The mobile app is old and wasn't updated the last 2 years. I don't know if there will be an update in the future, because the focus is on the Digital Factory which has got much more features than the app every had. Why is the DF not an option for you?

Does it work when Cura is already open? I am on the Mac and for it works only when Cura is open because Fusion is not allowed to start a new application.

You can hardly compare the version 15.04 and newer versions, too much has changed internaly. I have used the old Cura version only for some tests with basic prints. In newer versions it is not a problem, but I am not sure if you can configure it in that way with 15.04.

No, usually you don't see it on a photo. But maybe the print core is good, so just place another one in the slot to see if it is better or not.

It is also often the case that model from Thingiverse (or other platforms) are not working out of the box. I guess the reason is that the user who designed the model, has designed the tolerances which fits his own printer. So it is often a try and error game with these "print in place" models. But as SandervG mentioned, the elephants foot is often the reason why it is not working. I usually use -0.3 for the Initial Horizontal Expansion, but sometimes I need more.

The card is small, so it could help to print with a 0.25 nozzle instead of the 0.4 to get better details. Another or additional option is to print 2 at once to give the layer more time to cool down before the next layer is printed. The option min layer time can also help if you want to print only one card. Additionally try to print cooler, adjust the temp until you get underextrusion and then add 5°C. Print slow.

I think it is much better to use a newer version of Cura, slice it there and use Astroprint just for sending the job to your printer. Cura 15.04 is more than 5 years old.

There is no need to convert the file, it is just the filename or better the extension. So when you rename the file it should work.

The community here is great, in most cases you get an answer or support within a few hours.