Smithy

Strange behaviour, I never used it personally, I prefer to use Cura to manage the materials (gcode flavour Marlin) but there should be no reason to reload it everytime after a reboot. Maybe someone else has an idea.....

Wifi is great when it works reliable, but this is often not the case and there are hundreds of reasons. Often is a busy channel, too much clients or too many interferences. Other devices like notebooks have often no problem, they have bigger antennas and a more robust wifi chip inside, than other devices like printers for example. So when you never get a stable connection, contact your reseller, maybe the wifi board is not 100% ok. But when it works sometimes and sometimes not, I would say you have too much interferences and solving this issue is really hard and time consuming. I would connect the printer via ethernet whenever it is possible, it is still the best solution and you don't have to struggle with network outages.

If you need more, you can use Pronterface.

I think the biggest problem is moisture and I don't think you will get it really airtight. Rain and snow should be no problem, but I had this year the case that the electronics from my pool pump was not working anymore because of corrosion inside due to moisture from the air. It was sealed and anything, but a very small crack was enough to destroy the board inside. I am not sure, but I found some days ago a material in a shop where I think it was watertight, I think it was something from FormFutura but not sure. I think the filament needs to expand a little bit to get it really tight. But in any case, when you print the case, put it for 2-3 days in water completely and check if it is still dry afterwards. When it is outside all the time, I think this is really important. Regarding the wall thickness, I would use as much walls as possible (>4 or5) and use bigger layer heights. Also print hotter to get a really good layer adhesion and bonding. And if possible use some primer spray in post processing to be on the safe side, but that's often not an option but I wanted to mention it.

Could be a lot and it is hard to say just from a screenshot, but here some points: print cooler, cool as possible use another filament, cheap filament is often not the best solution play with the retract settings increase travel speed check the combing section, are the travel paths retracted or not I guess the main problem is the 0.8 nozzle in combination with a material which oozes too much. But maybe you get better results when you try to print cooler.

This was a very quick fix, just wanted to create an issue for the records on Github too and wanted to copy the line. Then I was confused because there was already 4.8 🙂 Then I have seen the commit a few minutes ago....👍 Thanks for your work!

I think you forgot to update the maximum_cura_version in plugin.json to work with Cura 4.8 beta. After changing 4.7 to 4.8 the plugin is working, but I have to test it deeply.

That you get the conflict warning is normal when you select the material manually, because it that case the printer expects a generic material. have you checked if the NFC cable is well connected? Maybe disconnect and connectivity again.

The stream URL is the same for UM3, S3, S5, so it is working.

Hi Ralph Thanks for your honest words. Everybody can have a bad day and you often say things you didn't mean. Everything is good and I wish you a lot of fun and success with your new hobby. And if you have questions or need help, there is always someone here who can give you the right answer.

Ok, just have seen you are using an UM3 and unfortunately the engineering intent settings are not available for the UM3. But there is no much difference between mine or gr5 settings and the Cura engineering profile. I still use this settings on my UM3 and I am happy with it. And the slowness is one of the key points to dimensional accuracy, so don't print too fast.

Basically there is no more need to use these settings, because Cura has now included the Engineering settings when you have an S3 or S5. The settings I posted sometimes ago or the GR5 settings were the "Beta" version of the now included settings.

@Slowboii Check if you have enabled coasting in the Cura settings. When you disable it, the gap should be gone.

I just printed the adapter and it fits and works great! Many thanks for this little helpful tool 👍

I don't have a material station so I am just guessing, but the problem is that a material profile needs additional parameters to be compatible with the material station. That's the reason why your Protopasta works in the standalone printer but not with the material station. 3rd party profiles are created and maintained by the vendor and it seems Protopasta has only provided a profile for the S5 without material station. So as long as Protopasta doesn't update these profiles you have to go with the workaround. But I think when you select on both sides the NylonX there is not need to override it in my opinion, because the printer thinks you print with NylonX just with different temp values. Maybe you can reach out to Protopasta and tell them about the missing profile.

Great, then I was wrong and it was a not so unimportant one.... 🙂

Yes, if you want infill then you have to design it as a solid object.

Das würde ich nicht machen, die Bowden Tube sollte schon aufliegen und keinen Spalt haben. Natürlich ohne Druck. Ansonsten gut erkannt und repariert. Die PTFE Coupler halten nicht sehr lange, kommt auch darauf an wieviel man druckt und mit welchen Temperaturen. Kann auch sein, dass zu viel Spannung auf dem ganzen war und es dadurch schneller ging.

Are you on the latest Octoprint plugin version?

Thanks, no I have just the S5 with AirManager but no material station. Will check your profiles and the marketplace version.

Thanks, shame on me, I haven't checked the marketplace 🙂 Any specials about bed adhesion or similar to ABS?

@flyinggorilla Do you have settings for the ApolloX ASA that you can share. I just ordered a spool because I have to print something for outside use and immediately thought I give the ApolloX a try when you are happy with it. Thanks!

Gerne 🙂

Hallo Du brauchst ein Material welches nicht zu steif da dir ansonsten die Haken brechen. Also PLA fällt damit schon einmal weg. PETG ist glaube ich ganz brauchbar, das ist weniger steif und für solche Zwecke ganz gut geeignet. Die Frage ist aber auch noch, welche Last muss so ein Haken aushalten oder ist es nur ein Designstück. Weil PETG funktioniert zwar so ganz gut, aber viel Last hält es natürlich nicht aus. Solltest du dann wirklich auch noch mechanische Beanspruchungen haben, dann musst du eher auf faserverstärkte Materialien gehen oder Polycarbonat etc. Die sind dann aber in der Regel alle nicht so einfach zu drucken.