GregValiant

Support always gets printed first on a layer. You can bring a Support Blocker mesh into Cura, set it off to the side, and set its Per Model settings to "Print as Support". The sacrificial block needs to be 1 layer height taller than the Resume layer of your Pause. My Layer Height is .20 and Initial Layer Height is .20. Here is a 10 x 10 x 30.2 block set to "Print as Support". The Pause occurs at the end of Layer 150 and (at my layer heights) that is Z=30.0. On resume - Layer 151 starts with Support (the sacrificial blocker) at a Z of 30.2. That is the last layer of the sacrificial blocker. The blocker needs to be placed between the "park position" you use in the pause, and the model itself. There are other ways to do this, but I think this is the simplest. On a small model like I show here the sacrificial block can help with cooling as well since the layer time is longer.

;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Y:-939240

@ahoeben will still need the "Cura.log" file to see if there are clues in it.

Provided that the reels are all the same material they should stick. My 3D pen came with ABS which I don't use but that wouldn't stick to PLA anyway. If there is a retraction in the pause routine, or if you leave the new filament too far back from the nozzle, then the nozzle will run dry for a while until the filament catches up. On a small print that could mean a missing layer. Then, after the filament is flowing again, it puts down a layer that is two layer heights above the layer before the pause. There would be no squish in that situation. Watching what's going on during that "layer of interest" might provide a better clue.

4.4 is a lot of versions ago. I only have back to 4.6 which I installed 2 years ago when I purchased my Ender 3 Pro. Version 4.6 has the definition. Where did you get that version from? Was it included with your printer from Creality?

"Can I use these (2.85) reels on my (stock from the factory) Ender 3 Pro 3D printer?" No. Your extruder, the bowden tube and fittings, and the hot end and nozzle are built for 1.75 filament. 2.85 won't fit through any of those parts. "Is there a way to pause the print..." On the Cura menu bar select "Extensions / Post Processing / Modify Gcode" and in the dialog box select "Add a Script". That will bring up a list and one of the choices is Pause At Height. I use it a lot. As usual, there are issues. If there are Z-Hops in the file or if you are using Adaptive Layers then pausing "By Height" doesn't work well. "By Layer" works fine. When Creality went to the 32 bit mainboards (4.2.x) they also changed the printer screen to a TFT style LCD. When they did that the firmware did not handle messages sent to the printer LCD. The normal pause command M0 sends "Click to Resume" to the LCD and that seems to cause the command to be ignored. That is also true for M1 and M117 (there may be others). Load a calibration cube in Cura. Activate the Pause at Height plugin and set the pause for Layer 3 (or some other low layer). The pause will occur at the end of the layer number you enter. Fill in the rest of the boxes. I don't bother with the retraction settings. The max for the Disarm Stepper setting is 1800 and that should be set. Gcode before pause can be a beep command M300. Choose the Marlin (M0) option for the pause command. Generate a gcode and see if it actually pauses. To continue the print click the LCD button. If it does a quick stop (which can be up to 10 seconds because of the following M109 command) and then takes off by itself, it didn't work. If that doesn't work you can try the M25 command. If M25 works then to resume you need to click the LCD button twice. If it doesn't work then you need to use the G4 command in the "Gcode after pause" box. G4 S60 will pause for 60 seconds and then automatically resume the print. That's the downside. You cannot hurry the pause nor can you make it longer. If you set it for 3600 seconds you will have to wait an hour for the thing to get going again. If you set it for 10 seconds you may not have time to finish changing filament. Because the Max Stepper Disarm Time is 1800 seconds then that is really the max for G4 as well. If the steppers disarm and lose position the print is scrap. It takes some practice. As I said I don't use the plugin's retract settings. I've found that after changing colors and pushing enough filament (by hand) through the hot end to change colors, that a 3mm "hand retraction" works fine. It's always best if the "resume" is in support but that doesn't always happen. I made these for a friends wife. The trailer/sleigh had 4 Pause at Heights and the coasters had 5. The windows and curtains were printed separately and glued in. I thought the glow-in-the-dark windows were a nice touch.

The printer definitions for non-Ultimaker printers come from either the manufacturer of from someone in the community who took the time to put one together. In your case your Base Definition file "xyzprinting_base.def.json" has this line: "author": "XYZprinting Software" So now you know who to ask. They need to hustle though. The beta for Cura 5.0 may be released shortly. If XYZ has provided the definition files for your printer then they may be included. Maybe @nallath knows if there is a definition in the pipeline for the "DaVinci 2.0 Dual Extruder" printer.

I wonder if the 139 was STEPS/mm??? Now that would make some sense. When you change an extruder the "E" needs a recalibration. You can usually set the steps on the LCD in a menu somewhere. On my Ender it's under "Control" and then "Motion". You should really do a calibration though. There are lots of videos out there. If the Gcode tells the extruder to push 25mm of filament to the hot end but only 20mm actually gets pushed, then you have under-extrusion.

When a model slices differently in one orientation as opposed to another, that is one of my indicators that there are problems with the model. Cura slices horizontally and so with the model rotated onto it's side it looks totally different to the slicing software.

There are different kinds of Multiple Extruder printers. There are true multiples and the printer will have separate extruders, hot ends, and nozzles for each tool. There are "multiple-in-one-out" machines that have separate extruders but that share the hot end heater and nozzle. Different types need to be set up differently in Cura. What did you do? Which one describes your printer?

This is zoomed into the top portion of your threads. All of those facets indicate errors in the model. The blue areas indicate open edges that confuse Cura because the program can't tell the inside from the outside. These threads happen to be male but you can see that there isn't any of that "faceting" that is apparent in your model.

Cura points out problems with the model graphically and with the popup. I tried to repair it with MS 3D Builder but no luck. You really need to re-do the threads in CAD. An on-line repair service gave this report but was unable to repair the model. From https://formware.co/OnlineStlRepair -> Analyzed your file: --> 25 Naked edges (?) --> 0 Planar holes (?) --> 0 Non-planar holes (?) --> 119 Non-manifold edges (?) --> 180 Inverted faces (?) --> 0 Degenerate faces (?) --> 38 Duplicate faces (?) --> 0 Disjoint shells (?)

Remember to turn it off until you need it again. It can have some odd unwanted effects.

I think you have the units confused. Slicing software uses mm/second as speed rates. Printer firmware uses mm/minute as the speed. Slicers do the conversion so the gcode is correct. It's odd they were so specific at "139" instead of just calling it 140. Was that specific to PLA? I can print PLA pretty fast but PETG is a different story and my TPU speed is pretty snail-ish. The shape and size of the model definitely needs to be considered. I don't remember the model having those holes in the top of the large diameter. Is that just a single layer over the infill or is something else going on?

Did you go over these instructions? Your model printer is the second one down. In Cura 4.13 the "Shared Heater" setting is in the Printer Settings plugin. You would need to load "Printer Settings" from the MarketPlace in order to access. You printer does not share heaters and the default is for that setting to be turned off, but you may want to check. I think everything else is available in the Machine Settings dialog.

So long as the problem is solved. It's good that it was in the printer instead of in the Startup Gcode.

When you set the "Top Surface Skin Layers" to a non-zero number then the "Top Surface Skin Pattern" becomes available in the Experimental section. The options are Lines, Zig-Zag and Concentric.

I don't see anything in the Gcode file that would account for that. Your flow at 20mm/sec print speed is only 6.4mm³/sec and so you aren't stressing the hot end. The Skins account for 35% of the plastic used in the models. The overall amount of filament calculated by the length of the extrusion moves in the Gcode file came out to 100.5% of what Cura said it would be. Your photo shows under-extrusion on the order of 20 to 25% and with 35% of the print consisting of Skins, that amount of under-extrusion should have shown up in the analysis. Looking at layers from the side is not a good way to judge over/under extrusion. It's the skins that tell the real story. When I zoom into your first image I do believe I can see that the layer below the top skin is also under-extruded. I happen to have a microscope and looking at a print through it taught me what I was really looking at. A magnifying glass can work as well. I see you had the flow in Cura set at 99.4% which is close enough to 100% for me. You may want to go back and double check the E-step calibration on your printer.

I don't see it under-extruding in the Gcode. Remember, the first layer height is dependent on the "leveling" process. From the Gcode the TOTAL E of layer 0 (not including the skirt) is 124.4013 and for the second layer it's 124.3863. That's a difference of only .01%. Even Mr. Spock would be impressed. My printer is also an Ender 3 Pro. I noticed early on that the Z switch wasn't consistent. Sometimes it would be off by as much as .3mm between one homing event and the next. Getting first layers down was a problem. I was going to swap the Z and Y switches but I was too lazy (although it is an option). Instead, I changed the G28 in the StartUp Gcode to G28 X Y. My process now is to pre-heat the bed and hot end. Level with my trusty piece of parchment paper. Start the print. The printer homes the X Y but leaves the Z height exactly where it was when I leveled. You can try that, swapping the Z and Y switches, or add a second homing move as G28 Z to the StartUp Gcode. I did some testing and that seemed to work out alright as well.

Post the Gcode and I'll look at the E numbers. In the mean time, check your Z mechanicals (coupler, threaded rods, wheels, X beam is rigid, etc.) . Extrusion problems like that can happen when the Z gets dirty or hangs up instead of moving to the new position. Did you have Z-hops enabled?

You need to get with BiQu and find out if they have a Cura printer definition file for your printer. You could install the smaller B1 in Cura and then make adjustments to the Machine Settings (build plate size) but the B1 does not come with Auto-Leveling. You would need to find what command the printer uses to call up the auto-level routine and then you need to add it to the StartUp Gcode (also in Machine Settings).

Set Cura up with that calibration cube and ready to slice. Use the File | Save Project command and post the 3mf file here. Post that gcode file as well.

Looks like @gr5 was right again. In Cura go to Add Printer and Non-Networked Printer and install a base model CR10. You can check the setup by going to Manage Printers / Machine Settings and double checking the build plate size and the firmware "flavor". It looks like the HICTOP people may have altered the firmware but it is likely still based on Marlin. Origin at Center should NOT be checked. Slice something simple like a calibration cube and save the Gcode. Try to print it.

Someone else may know better but I believe the plugins become "attached" to the printer. If you use the same defined printer for each instance of Cura then yes, the plugins will be there in each instance. If you install another printer in Cura that does not have the plugins then any of your multiple instances that use that 2nd printer will not have the plugin active. I only own 1 printer but I have installed different printers in Cura for TPU, PETG and for PLA. My preference was to have the purge lines in the startup gcode tuned to the material and it's print speed (rather than removing the purge lines from the StartUp). Trying to print TPU on a bowden printer at PLA speeds didn't work out so well. In addition my retractions are different for each material and so the PLA and PETG printer definitions have a slightly different Search and Replace plugin that is tuned to the specific retraction distance. The PETG printer always replaces the initial retraction line G1 F2100 E-6.5 with G92 E-3. With PLA that initial retraction is G1 F2100 E-5.5 and it gets replaced with G92 E-3. The TPU printer doesn't have the plugin as I don't use retraction with TPU.

This could be partly because of the model and partly because of the way you have your settings configured. If the model was designed with those inside corner radii at 6mm and the wall thickness is 3mm then the outside radii should be 9mm to make them concentric to the inside. If they aren't then the wall thickness actually varies going around the curve. That may be a reason why the corners have infill. The yellow lines between the walls may be there because those areas are the sills for windows that might be in the sidewalls. I see you don't have "Connect Infill Lines" enabled and so after each little infill line the extrusion must stop until the beginning of the next infill line. If you enable that command a lot of the short travel moves will be turned into extrusion moves. The "Combing" settings affects the travel as does "Fill Gaps Between Walls" = Everywhere. Without knowing how you set it up to slice it's tough to tell what's really going on. With the model loaded and Cura set to slice - select the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. If the model is proprietary and can't be shared then you can choose another model that is similar.