GregValiant

Moderator @gr5 put together THIS VIDEO on build plate adhesion. It's a tad longish but he covers a lot of material. Your problem will be described in there somewhere.

I just answered another post regarding this same thing and I realized I missed a couple of lines in there. Change this: G29 ;Auto-level M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;final heating of the hot end and wait to this: G29 ;Auto-level G1 Z15 F1000 G1 X1 Y1 F6000 M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;final heating of the hot end and wait That will raise the Z and then park the head in the LF corner so it oozes over there instead of over the build plate.

That second set of commands looks workable. I would add the line I've put here in boldface. G29 ;auto bed leveling G1 Z30 F300 ;move extruder up 30mm at 5mm/s for more room for oozing G1 X1 Y1 F6000 ;move to the LF corner so the oozing happens there M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Set extruder temperature and wait You have commented out the M105 line. If you were using Cura it would be looking for temperature responses over the USB to insure the printer was still paying attention. I don't know about Octoprint. If you do not include the temperature "replacement words" in your startup gcode then Cura will automatically add temperature lines BEFORE the startup gcode. (It's meant to make sure there is no cold extrusion.) That can cause oozing during the leveling process as the hot end goes up to the printing temperature. Your first set (from above) has redundancies and looks like a combination of StartUp and Ending gcode. This won't work. M82 ;absolute extrusion mode G28 ;home all axes G29 ;auto bed leveling G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;redundant G92 E0 ;Reset extruder position(zero the extruded length) G91 ;redundant ;relative positioning G90 ;redundant ;absolute positioning G92 E0 ;redundant ;Reset extruder position(zero the extruded length) From here on it appears to be an ending gcode but it isn't right. M84 ;disable motors M104 S0 ;turn off extruder M107 ;off fan T0 ;Switch to the first extruder M84 ;redundant ;disable motors M82 ;absolute extrusion mode M104 S0 ;redundant ;End of Gcode

Here ya go. You can copy and paste this into the StartUp Gcode box in your machine settings. By heating the hot end part-way (I used 160°) before leveling it avoids oozing, but takes up some of the possible expansion of the hot end parts. The purge lines speeds (F3000) are suitable for PLA but not so much for PETG or TPU. You would need to make adjustments if you print those materials. The words in curly brackets {} are replacement patterns. Cura will insert the numbers when the gcode is created. When Cura sees the replacement patterns in the Startup Gcode then it won't insert those early temperature lines. ; ; E3Pro StartUp ; M82 ;Absolute extrusion G90 ;Absolute movement G21 ;Metric units M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;start to heat the bed M109 S160 ;start to heat the hot end and wait for it M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;wait for the bed G92 E0 ; Reset E G28; Home all axes G29 ;Auto-level M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;final heating of the hot end and wait M220 S100 ;reset the feed rate in case of tuning during a previous print M221 S100 ;reset the flow rate in case of tuning during a previous print G1 Z10.0 F3000 ; Move Z G1 X1.0 Y20 ;Move to start of purge G1 X1.0 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move down G1 X1.0 Y200.0 Z0.3 F3000.0 E12 ; First purge line G1 X3.0 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move G1 X3.0 Y20 Z0.3 F3000.0 E24 ; Second purge line G1 E22 F1800 ;short retraction G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z12.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up G1 X20 Y35 F5000.0 ; Move over ; ;End of StartUp ;

This is a 4017 chip stuck through the holes in my model and it dropped right in at 2.54 spacing.

The error is not in the gcode. Consider - this is a very basic part of what slicers do. If Cura couldn't get this right then no one would use it. Are you printing from an SD card or though Octoprint or some other intermediary? I sliced and printed your test STL file. The gcode indicates that the model is 22.00mm long. It printed at 22.02. I used the 1/2 scale side of the scale because of the finer tic marks. You can see that the top row holes are about 36.5 apart at 1/2 scale and so at full scale that's 18.25. 18.25/7 hole spaces = 2.607 between the holes. You designed it to 2.6 and it is indeed 2.6. I've attached a 3mf file. The holes are 1mm dia and the spacing is 2.54mm (0.10 inches) which is the typical spacing on the PCB's and breadboards I use. Outside is 20.00 x 32.00. GV Hole Test.3mf

Load the model into Cura and adjust you settings the way you want. The use the "File | Save Project" command and post the resulting 3mf file here. I'm assuming this is a single wall model. This can be a hard one to nail down as it is almost always a function of the amount of oozing that the nozzle is doing during the travel move between the last extrusion, and the next one. Sometimes you need to rotate the model, other times rotating the infill (line directions) can help. Limiting the travel between the end of one extrusion and the start of another is a key. If you had retraction turned on then you might consider adjusting "Retraction Extra Prime Amount". There is a post-processor for "Retract Continue" that does a slow retraction over a distance, but again, you have to have retraction enabled and I seem to recall that the plugin is confused by Zhops. Under "Travel" there are boxes for the layer start position. You may be able to adjust them and move the start to the Zseam position. Combing is another adjustment. In the Cura preview - turn off the Shell and Infill and turn on "Travel Moves".

"...why the printed hole spacing is 3 mm instead of 4 mm?" I think it's between you and the printer. Some mechanical problem like a loose belt or maybe the steps/mm of the X and Y are off...something. The printer should be moving to where it is told to go and the gcode commands within the file are spot on for the overall size, the size of the holes, the hole spacing, as well as for the thickness of the piece. "if that was true than printed part would have 20.4 mm width" No. 19.60 + .40 = 20.00 and 7.60 + .40 = 8.00 and for the holes 1.40 - .40 = 1.00. I wrote the script for reading a gcode into AutoCad in order to take Cura out of the picture. It gives a completely independent view of the generated gcode. That is your "AKP_test.gcode" that you see it that screenshot. If your printer isn't printing it that way then the problem is in the printer and you would need to dig into that to see what is really going on.

Your verbiage is difficult to visualize.

I may be a fisherman but lately I haven't been a catcherman. I do try to make up interesting lies though. BTW the gcode file I produced has 6913 Z moves from the start of layer 0 to the end of printing. That's about 200 Z moves per layer.

The 3MF is with my regular profile, No bottom layers, Spiralize turned on. Slice it and look at the preview. You will see what appears to be a seam. Save the gcode file, clear the build plate, and open the gcode file in Cura. No seam, and that is how it will print. GV_bezelpushfit2.3mf

@greens83 I downloaded that model. Cura shows errors and the hollow shape means there is a surface on the inside that faces air, and a surface on the outside that faces air. Those sorts of models aren't suited to Spiralize. Your Gcode file shows the XY shuffle that is creating the seam. After repairing the model in MS 3D Builder I get a true spiralize toolpath. Here is a preview of the repaired model in Cura. You see that it has only an outside face and is solid top-to-bottom. This is in Cura X-Ray view. Your model is on the right and the repaired model is on the left. The red areas indicate model errors. Open the attached gcode file in Cura. When I first slice it the preview appears to show a z-seam. Previewing the gcode in either AutoCad or in Cura shows that those shuffle moves aren't actually there. MS3D_bezelpushfit2.gcode

"100% of all the PLA produced on the planet will end up in landfills." - GregValiant "PLA (polylactic acid) is typically made from the sugars in corn starch, cassava or sugarcane. It is biodegradable, carbon-neutral and edible." - Colombia Climate School "The Truth about bio-plastics" Additional: TreeHugger.com @reble How much scrap are you planning on producing? You're supposed to make good parts ya know. I use the ends of spools for my little detective work around here. The ends of spools and/or moist filament is useful as a learning aid and for experimenting with settings. The scrap rate for that is 100%. I'm a graduate of the Detroit public school system so this may be a little shaky (I gotta dust off my slipstick for this). A 1kg spool of 1.75 is about 330meters or 330,000mm. At .2 layer height and .4 line width - 1mm of 1.75 filament will provide 30.06mm of extrusion. 330,000 * 30.06 = 9,919,800mm of extrusion/spool. At 50mm/sec that's 55.11hrs of print time / spool. At a scrap rate of 50% (I've been higher) that's about 1/2 kilo of scrap every 2.3 days. If you print 24/7 for a year that would come out to around 159 (1)kg spools of filament of which 79kg (175#) would be scrap. A little salt...maybe some ketchup...you eat a 1/2lb of PLA per day, everything goes down the toilet, and the problem is resolved. A little feedback here, so don't eat it. Never throw tools away. For those of you who don't know, this is a sliderule which was known colloquially as a slipstick. It's amazing how something so small and light could be so cumbersome.

Does not work for me in Beta II.

This model? This is in 4.13.1 with "Brim only on outside" turned on. This is with "Brim only on outside" turned off. It's hard to see the brim lines but they aren't everywhere. The "Bo" continue to be full but the others just have a single line, and then there are the areas without any interior brim. Behavior like this is almost always the model. I'm sayin' "almost" because this time I don't think it is. On the other hand, flipping it over and printing it right-side up works. It certainly doesn't need a brim. It looks like @mardocheo's solution with a wide skirt set to zero distance works as well. This is Arachne. On the other hand (that makes three) I didn't feel like perusing a boatload of STL's looking for the right one and so this may all be wrong.

The numbers in the gcode say extrusion is at 100% flow (if you're Mr. Spock it's 99.9882%) My hot end is a single so it's straight through. I found a piece of wire that is 1.75mm and (with the bowden and nozzle out) I push it through the warmed up hot end. It usually gets something out. In your case I don't know how you would handle the merge area. I suppose a smaller piece of wire would work. Maybe something like a broken guitar string. I have a simple system for cleaning nozzles. I hold it with a piece of pliers and put a propane torch to it. When the flaming drips stop I drop it into a glass of water and then clean out the inside better with a watchmaker screwdriver and the cleaning needle that came with the printer. Looking back - I don't think I've ever had a true "plugged nozzle". It was always a plug that formed at the bottom of the bowden tube. Printing a lot of PETG will eventually hurt even a Capricorn tube. The grinding of the filament is a definite problem. Are you confident that the extruder tension arm is adjusted tight enough? Usually when things get bad and the filament won't push then the extruder skips steps. If it is turning and not pushing then maybe it's just not gripping the filament tight enough.

I found it. Geeetech A20M. To the right of the Settings Search box is an icon with three lines on it. Click on it and set the visibility to "All". In the Material Settings check all the flow% numbers. It looks like the skirt is going down at exactly 90% flow. That doesn't account for all the banding though. It looks more like the extruder is stopping and starting or some other problem that is causing intermittent extrusion. Use the "File | Save Project" command and Cura will save a 3mf file with all your settings and the model. Post that file here.

The gcode file you posted is different than the one in your photos. That photo of a print looks like there is an extruder problem. What printer is that?

Start Button and then scroll down to the "P" programs. Paint 3D should be in there. I seem to recall it used to be in an Accessories folder somewhere. Besides changing the name they moved it.

I read the gcode into AutoCad and it's fine. You can open the gcode in Cura to check it as well. Cura's gcode reader is separate from the slicer so you get the true view. There is a caveat with that particular file. Cura doesn't display "One at a Time" files in the correct order as each part has it's own "LAYER:0" so everything gets lumped together by Layer rather than in the actual print order.

I think you have to customize the plugin file. On my Windows computer it is in C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts. You can open "TimeLapse.py" in a text editor and make the changes. "pause_length": { "label": "Pause length", "description": "How long to wait (in ms) after camera was triggered.", "type": "int", "default_value": 900, "minimum_value": 0, "unit": "ms" }, "head_park_y": { "label": "Park Print Head Y", "description": "What Y location does the head move to for photo.", "unit": "mm", "type": "float", "default_value": 300, "enabled": "park_print_head" When you update Cura to a newer version you would need to do this again.

That's actually a fairly common mistake. Congratulations on your first print!

The "Horizontal Expansion" settings (all three) can individually or in combination cause problems like that. Set them all to "0" and check the preview to see if that makes a difference. If it doesn't, then use the "File | Save Project" command and post the file here.

I think it depends on how (or if) he has the Accel and Jerk configured. If the gcode is always like this it will work. M107 G1 F600 Z0.6 ;MESH:fine_positive_features.stl G0 F1800 X160.128 Y135.559 Z0.6 If the gcode is like mine then it won't M107 M204 S1000 M205 X10 Y10 G1 F600 Z0.7 G0 F9000 X94.809 Y113.971 Z0.7

I think you'll need to contact the manufacturer. Sometimes they have printer definition files available or can at least steer you in the right direction.