GregValiant

The Disarm Timeout can be set to 1800 seconds max (30 min - that's hard coded in the Plugin). You could go into the Gcode and change it to 14400 (3hrs) which is the max that my printer will accept. It's a matter for the firmware to decide. On an Ender 3pro the disarm timeout cannot be shutoff. The Marlin firmware on my Ender 3pro will accept either the M0 line or an M25 line to pause. M25 requires that an M24 be sent to restart. The M0 requires a button click on the LCD. I usually don't use the "Extrusion after pause" but rather just hand force the filament through the hot end until the color changes, hang on to the end with tweezers, and click the button. The trailer is a coaster holder for the wife. 8 Pause at Heights. The transitions between layers were made in the inner infill so the transitions were dead nuts.

I'm getting a feeling that you are printing via the USB connection. Is that correct? If that is true, then when the machine stops is there any message on the screen? "Click to RESUME" maybe? That is a known problem when using Cura as a printing host and a particular chain of events happens in the Gcode. To re-start a print - as @gr5 says, edit the file and erase the layers, skirt/brim up to your restart layer. Along with adding the G92 line you should add a Z movement to insure that the machine moves the print head above the existing part on the plate, BEFORE the Gcode tells the printer to move in the XY. If you are re-starting a print at say Z=35.6 and you don't move your Z first then the printer will move the head from the home position 0,0,0 in a straight line to the new start point. Crash. So you need to add a line like "G1 Z45.6 F2700" right after the G92 line that gr5 described and before the Gcode tells the printer to move in the XY. Yes - a Gcode file is a simple text file. When you save the file in a text editor you may have to manually get rid of the TXT name extension and type in GCODE. You can always rename a saved text from from YourFile.txt to YourFile.gcode. You have probably noticed that layer numbering in Gcode starts at 0 while layer numbering in Cura preview starts at 1. Pay attention when deciding what layer number to actually re-start at. It's an easy mistake to make.

I haven't played with this much so take a close look at the preview. I'm going to assume you mean more walls where the "tube" with a hole in it passes through an area of infill. Put a support blocker over the hole tube. Scale it and move it until it covers the entire area you want to beef up. In the Per Model tool there is one for "Modify Settings for Overlaps" and choose Select Settings and then Wall Line Count. I think something like that is what your looking for.

The problem with the retraction line is that if you change the setting for Retraction Distance or Retraction Speed in Cura, then the line changes. I use the Search and Replace plugin to change that line to "G92 E-1" and I get nice starts to my skirt/brim. If the search criteria doesn't match the current Distance / Speed settings the plugin can't find the line to change it. I tend not to change the Distance or Speed very often so Search and Replace works for me.

Another one that types faster than me... The USB side of Cura isn't supported by Ultimaker anymore. None of their printers require it so it's legacy software at this point. If the side of Cura that is busy sending Gcode doesn't allow for interruption then you will need to try Pronterface/Printrun or maybe Octoprint. Pronterface allows you to see the responses from the printer as well as send codes. You can also write your own macro scripts and send them to the printer.

On the left of the Cura workspace screen is a toolbar. The bottom tool is "Support Blocker". Select your model and then select Support Blocker. Click somewhere on the model to create a block. On the lower left there will be a list of the objects on the build plate (oddly enough called the "Object List"). Your new support blocker will be Eraser and additional blocks will be added to the list. You can make them active by selecting them on the list. When you select the Eraser block you can drag it around or type numbers into the Move tool dialog. You can also scale it separately in all three axis. When it covers the proper section of your model you can also elect to have different settings for the intersection volume between your model and the blocker (it's under "Per Model" settings just above the blocker tool). I found that if I wanted to block support AND infill from an area that I needed two blocks covering the same area with one set to infill and the other set to support. I haven't played with that aspect of Cura a lot though.

You could use the post-processing plugin "Search and Replace" and search for "M109" and replace with ";M109". That should comment all M109's in the file. Use a second search and replace for the M190 line. You may be aware that the M109 line is a safety to keep from running extrusion commands while the hot end is cold.

It's good that you sorted it out. I do a lot of lettering both inset and raised. Sometimes there are issues but it has always come down to something I did, or something in the model. I've found that Cura doesn't tend to make things up and that if I stare at the model long enough I'll have an "Aahhh, that's why" moment. Nice job on the font by the way. It's not easy sticking them into curved surfaces.

My printer is an Ender 3 Pro. I never had to adjust the Z offset but I'm a firm believer in my piece-of-paper leveling system. Are you using automatic bed leveling?

The engraved letters must come very close to the top of the model. What is the height of the model? What is the dimension from the bottom of the model to the top of the engraved area? What is your layer height and what is the initial layer height? If you could post the STL file that would be good.

Are you sure that "back view" one is labeled correctly? You really can't get raised areas on the bed side. Give your build surface a good bath, and make sure all plastic residue is off of it. Check it closely for mars and gouges in the surface. Don't get fingerprints on it. In Cura - move the model so it prints somewhere else on the plate to see if it was just that area of the build surface.

I looked at the gcode file. The flow numbers look OK for a .2 nozzle at .08 layer height. But the Initial Layer Height is .30mm. That would seem to be a stretch for a .2mm nozzle. Maybe you just aren't getting enough squish to push the plastic onto the build plate. I suggest changing the Initial Layer Height to .15mm and trying again.

My bad...I didn't see the gcode file up here. Have you tried moving the model (in Cura) to a different location on the build plate? Once selected you can grab an arrow and slide it.

That leveling pattern looks good. It must be something in your settings having an effect on flow. In Cura under Material there are a bunch of Flow settings. Double check that they are all at 100%. Initial Layer Flow does not update when you change the main flow number. In you machine settings for the extruder - double check that the filament size is 1.75mm. Also double check that the nozzle size listed in Cura is the same as the one you are using.

The wide skirt lines in the front and the narrow skirt in the back seem to indicate that the front is higher than the back. Mari's Gcode snippet has two lines drawn on the left side. How did they look? Have you tried putting it on a brim? You can adjust the leveling while the brim is printing. I always use hair spray to help adhesion to the glass build plate. Everybody has their favorite and that's mine for my Ender3Pro. I'd give the plate a good bath and take care that no fingerprints get on it. Then put on a light coat of the adhesion promoter of your choice, level VERY carefully, and have at it again.

I gotta believe it was a setting. That makes more sense to me than your install of 4.6.1 being different than mine. Good to know it's sorted out (at least until you hit the right wrong combination again!).

Nice job catching it. I looked at bottom layers but I already had it set to .8mm which was the wall thickness I was using. That's likely why I wasn't seeing a problem.

"...select 'modify settings for overlap' from the option above" Nuts. Vase mode isn't one of the options available. I suppose there is a basic compatibility issue between fixed layer height and a varying layer height like Spiralize has. You couldn't do it on the left side of a model and not on the right. Back to Tedium ad Naseum. Feidias_3D (did your parents really name you that?) If the Gcode file is smallish (under 1,048,000 lines) you can open it in MSExcel as a "space delimited" text file. Sometimes it's easier when you can copy and paste to another column to make your changes. Remember to erase all extraneous comments before "saving as" an MS-DOS text file. You can change the file name extension to .gcode afterwards.

The stl file was generated as a low resolution file. The facets would be much finer on a high resolution file. Then your slicing pattern would be much closer to emulating a circle than what you have now which is that every layer essentially describes a square. I'm attaching a project file with your low res ball and a 35mm ball that I generated as a high resolution stl file. Open the file and slice it and then preview the first few layers. Big Balls.3mf

Sometimes I like to hide the Settings dialog and the Compatibility / View dialog to have more real estate for zooming and rotating the model. I haven't been able to hide them or to move them. The settings dialog stays visible when a Gcode file is opened.

It is more tedious than difficult. After doing it a couple of times it gets less difficult, but never less tedious. You have probably noticed G92 E0 in your gcode files. That sets the Extruder to zero. It can be set to any number. G92 E1234.5678 would set the E location to that number. That's how you make the transition from one section of the code to the next. If you decide to go with location holes and glue the things together, do not put the holes all the way through. Just sayin'.

That is weird. You'll have to wait till a real expert shows up.

"Another option is print stem and then print upper bowl separately and glue these two parts together." That would work. Put a 2.25mm hole in the top of the stem and a matching 2.25mm hole in the bottom of the bowl and you can use a piece of filament as a pin for location. Or - You could slice a model with your first settings (thick wall with infill) and slice the model again with Spiralize. You then have two Gcode files. One for stem, and one for bowl. You should use the same layer height for each. Pick a convenient Z height where the stem meets the bowl. The Z height must match at the transition. Let's say it's layer 500. In the Stem file, delete everything above the transition layer (500). In the Bowl file, delete all the layers below the transition layer +1 (501) including the opening lines of the gcode. Paste everything that is left in the Bowl file onto the end of the Stem file. Your new file has: your Start-Up Gcode, then Stem up to layer 500, then Bowl from 501 to the rim, and the Ending Gcode. You need a transition for the E value. At the start of layer 501 add G92 E??? where the question marks are the first E value of layer 501 (pay attention to the E values as there might be a retraction to account for). If you want to get fancy, put a Pause in there and you can change colors for the Bowl. Here is Mrs. Rabbit. Two files were spliced as explained above. The stand is thick wall with infill and from about mid-foot up is Sprialized.

If the line looks like this: "M600 E30.00 L300.00 X0.00 Y0.00 ; Generated by FilamentChange plugin" Next to the Slice button is an icon with a crossed hammer and wrench. Click on it and then close the Filament Change Plugin. A second possibility is that there is a M600 line in your Start-Up Gcode. Click on your selected printer and go to Manage Printers / Machine Settings and find the line in the Start-Up Gcode text box and delete it. You said "...the first print it saves always forces my printer...". I don't have a clue what the problem is if the first Gcode file has the filament change and succeeding Gcode files do not.

When you say "turn on another printer" do you mean selecting Printer B from your list in Cura while Cura is sending Gcode over the USB to Printer A? Or do you mean powering on a second printer? I'll try to address the first. You can try starting another instance of Cura and selecting Printer B there. That would leave Cura instance #1 alone so it can just be a host for Printer A. The com port to Printer A is busy so Cura #2 can't access it. Cura #2 will poll possible com ports for an available port and if you have a second USB configured as a com port for Printer B it MIGHT be found and printing to the port MIGHT work. If printing from an SD card is an option then that might be the easiest thing to do.