GregValiant

The Walls setting "Zseam Location" and "Z seam relative" along with the Travel settings "X Layer Start" and "Y Layer Start" can be fiddled with to get what you want. I like to start the skirt near the left front corner so no string gets pulled across the build area.

"initial_extruder_nr" is the extruder that Cura has figured out will start the print. I can see that if the skirt/brim is set to T0 then that is what will start the print. If you don't intend to use T0 for the print have you tried disabling it? It looks like if T0 is enabled then the build plate adhesion defaults to it. I guess you either need to manually set the skirt/brim to T1, disable extruder T0, or disable the Build Plate Adhesion.

Hello to both of you. Try enabling "Connect Infill Lines". It will get better but I couldn't get them to go away. They appear to be appended to the ends of all the infill lines.

There is always a Zseam as the nozzle must start the outer wall someplace. Settings like "Outer Wall Wipe Distance" can make it less. I have found that disabling "Retract before outer wall" can help because with no retraction there is no "prime". Coasting can help, but it also has drawbacks as extrusions after coasting can start out under-extruded. Printing with the wall order "Inside to Outside" is better. Round parts are the toughest because there aren't really any corners to hide the Zseam in. You can make it "random" but then there are zits all over instead of lined up nicely where they are easier to sand off.

Playing with the firmware is a long slippery slope. There are numerous posts on the Ender 3 board on Reddit regarding botched firmware "upgrades". That would be a better place to start though. This board is pretty UM specific when it comes to the hardware side. If you have a specific idea regarding commands that your firmware doesn't currently support and that you think you would find useful then you can try compiling your own firmware. You have a fixed amount of memory available on the board and every added function will eat away at that memory. You will get to a point where the firmware won't fit into the board do to memory constraints. You need a good idea of what functions will fit, and what might have to be disabled so something you want can be enabled. I run a stock Creality 1.1.5 8bit board with Marlin 1.8 and the machine prints really well. M0, M600, and G2/G3 are all enabled so I can use Pause at Height, change filament, or use Arc Welder with no problem. Have you tried changing the thermistor on the bed? It's the only control there is for the bed temperature. It tells the thermostat on the board whether to turn the bed on or off. The LCD display should just be reflecting what it's told. There is a firmware option in Marlin that will not turn the Hot End fan on until it hits 50°. You would need to recompile to enable it. "Start and End sequence" commands are in your StartUp and Ending gcodes in Cura. There is no need to recompile to change them. That includes the heating order of the bed and hot end.

The coasting is there, it's just very small and hidden by the white "Start" squares. The skirt coasting is obvious but you have too look close to see it in the walls. This is with your settings. Here I've dropped the "Minimum Volume Before Coasting" to .1mm³. When I inserted a cube next to your model the cube looked like I would expect with gaps where the coasting occurred. Somehow your model is confusing Cura. Maybe it's all those short line segments around the curves??? The skirt looks fine with gaps as expected. This is your model scaled up to 300%. Everything looks good here.

You could try T{initial_extruder_nr} At the end of your StartUp Gcode. Cura will put in the number of the first tool used in the print. You will need to work out the heating arrangement for it to insure you don't get a cold start. I think that: M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T{initial_extruder_nr} should work. You will need to test that. You may have to activate the tool before you can set the temperature.

The words "Dead Simple" and "Computer Software" are mutually exclusive. The proper terminology is "Why won't this #$%^ POS do what I ^%$##$@ want it to do???". Most people find that at this point a cutting torch and sledge hammer are required to move forward.

There should be some instructions included either on the website you download from (like Thingiverse) or as a readme in the download. Some models are configured to be printed using multi-extruder printers to print the separate parts in different colors. They would need to be assembled and merged in Cura. Some models are made to be assembled after printing. Super Glue works well on PLA and PETG.

If you would post this as a feature request over on GITHUB it will be seen by more of the developers. I'd like to see this as well. It should be doable to put a Support Blocker in as a Mesh Modifier to cut off the offending piece so it is ignored. It is not currently possible though.

Do you have Adaptive Layers enabled?

Yes. As @gr5 explained: Bring in a Support Blocker configured to "Modify Settings for Overlaps" and as a "Cutting Mesh". Select the setting "Top/Bottom Pattern" and set it to "Concentric". Set the blocker size to the build plate size in the X Y and "Initial Layer Height" thick. Move it to 0,0,0. Slice. Here is the first layer. My Initial Layer Height is 0.2 and so that is how thick I've made the blocker. Here is the second layer back to "Lines". Top layers are a bit tougher because the Z height of the blocker needs to be just right.

Welcome back Coseng. Remember... There is no replacement for displacement.

All in all I'd consider printing that with a .3 nozzle.

That is with the settings changed. Just slice and print. Pay close attention to the preview though. You know your printer and I don't.

When you have single wall letters and they are closely spaced then stringing is a real problem. I've altered some settings (max comb distance with no retraction, retraction minimum travel, acceleration, line width) and so there will be retractions between each letter. That also means there will be primes and any prime can leave a little blob. I didn't print this but it should be closer than where you were. The speed will drop to around 10mm/sec as you bounce off "Minimum Layer Time" but I thought lowering the accel to 500 would be smoother and (hopefully) result in crisper letters. I also changed the support interface to 50% "grid" as it should be easier to pry out than the 100% concentric was. For a 6 minute print that's a tough little bugger. GV_AC BUTTON.3mf

With the model loaded in Cura and Cura ready to slice use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. The file will include your printer, all your settings, and the model. It's the best to trouble shoot with.

#1. Relax. There are learning curves involved. #2. Go over that new printer with a fine-tooth comb. A printer that is not mechanically calibrated (all axis MUST be 90° to each other) will not produce good prints. Do not assume that because some parts were factory assembled that they were assembled correctly. The includes the amount of pressure that the trolley wheels exert in their slots. #3. Calibrate the E-steps/mm. It is insurance against starting out over-extruding or under-extruding. #4. Go to the Cura Marketplace (icon in the upper right corner) and load the "Settings Guide", the "Mesh Tools", and the "Calibration Shapes". #5. Print stuff. Practice makes perfect.

Hello @ahoeben. I've installed Cura 5.3 and would like to load SidebarGUI. Is there a package available?

A picture is worth a thousand words. A project file is worth a thousand pictures.

This came up in another thread and the OP there included some Weedo definition files. The files he posted are different than the files included with Cura. I'll post them again here. I don't know that this will work, but it might. Copy the definition files into the "...\Ultimaker Cura 5.2.1\share\cura\resources\definitions" folder. Copy the extruder files in the "...\Ultimaker Cura 5.2.1\share\cura\resources\extruders" folder. If you are using the 4.x version of Cura then the Definitions and Extruder folders are up one layer as there is no "Share" folder in the earlier versions of Cura. If your "Entina" definition file inherits the "Weedo Base" definition file and it isn't on the computer then that is the problem. The "Weedo Base" definition is included in the zip folder. The "Entina" defintion is not included but the Weefun and Weedo Tina2 definitions are there. You could install one of them (maybe) and just change the printer name. Weedo Cura Definitions.zip

There are inheritances involved and there might be different versions as well. The Weedo X40 file included with Cura 5.2.1 has <"inherits": "fdmprinter">. So it is meant to be its own Base file. The X40 file you posted above has <"inherits": "weedo_base"> and it's the Weedo Base file that inherits "fdmprinter". So if you use the X40 file you posted then yes, the Weedo Base file must be included.

I think PrusaSlicer uses square brackets and Cura uses Curly brackets. The Prusa keywords are different as well so you can't just copy and paste back and forth from Prusa StartUp to Cura StartUp.

The gcode can also be post-processed (using a custom code) to change the G0 X Y straight line moves into an X move and then a Y move to make them orthographic. Using the word "MESH" and processing all the commands until a ";" showed up in the line might provide a suitable filter. Looking at your sketch - I don't see a way to automate those "wrap-around" moves you show. An alternative might be to use generous Z-hop heights. If the nozzle always travels 2mm above the prints it may solve your problem. Here is a slice of your file. This is with orthogonal travel moves.

Look at "Ultimaker-Cura.exe"