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Assembly Manual: UM2+ Upgrade kit on Ultimaker Original Plus

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PDF READY VERSION AT:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-upgrade-on-umo-assembly-manual

Well I finally got one UM2kit and I'm getting ready to install it on one of my umo+.

So far everything it's just very plug and play.

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@Meduza Addon's to install it on Umo+

Rotated printhead

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-printhead-top-for-umo

Feeder adaptor

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-extrusion-upgrade-kit-mount-for-umo

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I'll post more as soon I get my hands dirty this weekend, but since the printed parts are ready I suppose it won't take much time, unless I stop for an ice-cream or a coffee.

I'm also making slideblocks to use the longer um2 shafts, and I'll try to advance in that direction after the basic installation it's done and running. For more on that go to:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21074-beyond-slideblocks-for-umo-to-use-um2-shafts-hotend

First steps - Setting all ready

Hotend

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Before starting. You will need to be sure that the printed part x4 screw holes are clean and the long hotend screws are clean. If not, use a 3mm drill bit or a file (or the screws until they pass clean and smoothly.

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Take out the bowden and the clip from the um2+ hotend. Unscrew the x4 long screws and take out the top of the hotend black plastic. Don't worry the bottom part with the coupler, nozzle and all that won't move a bit, that part it's independent on um2/um2+ hotend.

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Then take out the um2 top and replace it with the new printed part. BUT remember to ROTATE it 90 Degrees, so the top bearing it's facing you. Make sure that the back CABLES ain't being crush and they are just like they where when we started this. I must say that it's almost imposible to crush them since they are really neatly installed, but better safe than sorry.

Insert the bowden clip, bowden and blue thingy. Ok, hotend ready to use. Let's do some other stuff.

Feeder time

The metal adaptor that comes with the upgrade kit won't be needed for umo+. Just the white feeder part. Get x4 m3 10mm and screw the motor to the feeder hanger.

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After that, you need to secure the white gear feeder to the meduza adaptor. This time you need x2 nuts and x2 m3 14-16mm. You could even use 20mm or longer for this since they won't touch anything but to make it look clean try to use 14-16mm.

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Ok feeder done. One think I noticed @meduza it's that there's no clearance to grip the cable later on. So this part might need a little bit of adjustment. Anyhow isn't biggie.

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Time to update the hardware

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First, disconnect the power and make sure there’s no residual power on the machine (do a turn on/off while unplugged)

Take out the board Wooden cover

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This part depends on what model of board you have, 2.1.1 needs a flat screw driver while 2.1.4 have a different clamp system for the Heater.

Unscrew the heater 1 cables

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Relax the velcro fastening.

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Take out Temp 1 sensor.

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If you installed it like me, with the pt100 behind the board, you will need to unscrew the board a bit so there’s wiggle room to pull it out. Move the bed to the z if needed.

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Pt100 disconnected fully

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Unplug the fan cable. Same as before, if you installed behind the board you know the drill.

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Cables ready to take out, pt100, heater, fan.

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Pull out the 3 cables, you won’t need them anytime soon.

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Disconnect feeder 1 motor

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To take the feeder 1 cable out it’s better to push with the fingernail on the top of the plastic, this way you make sure you don’t pull the cables out of the connector.

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Time to pull out the feeder motor and from the frame too. Save it for a rainy day.

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Hang the new feeder motor with it’s adaptor and pass the cable trough and plug it where the old feeder was.

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Fix the hotend somewhere safe so you can work with the new um2+ hotend cables. They come with a tape so it’s very easy to pull them trough the hole.

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Since the cables come with a snake’s skin protector, you can avoid to insert them on the umo+ guide, also it’s much easier to remove if sometime goes wront.

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Ok cables in.

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Stick the cables on a side and pick the heater cables to install then.

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Install heater 1

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IMPORTANT STEP.

Now the PT100, I really recommend to pass it behind the board. Pass it behind the board, if you didn’t unscrew a bit the board (from inside the machine, not the ones outside) you can do it now. Use sometime to pass the cable behind. I used the tweezers I use to pick the filament when it purges.

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Connect the pt100. As you can see the cable reach perfectly, but there’s very little wiggle room, that’s why it’s important to pass it behind the board.

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Now the fan. Cable yellow/green colores with a molex. Same as the pt100, pass it behind the board.

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And now plug it :)

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IMPORTANT STEP

This might be a new connector for some of you, this one it’s the 5v hotend fan. If you have a 2.1.1 this little fan (it’s almost noise-less, for real) will stay on always. On 2.1.4 boards it won’t start until the hotend reaches 40C.

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It only has one way to be plugged in

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Now you can push up the board and tight the screws again. Remember to push the board up I did forgot and had to do it later…

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Allright!! Now short the cables, use the velcro fastening thingy and rearrange a bit the mess.

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Hotend time!

Since I use Twisterblocks this step it’s very very fast. For users with standard wooden blocks, go to the page 54 of the Ultimaker Original Plus Assembly Manual

It’s a very easy and fast step, so don’t worry.

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UMO+ hotend out! Take the x/y shafts. It’s a good moment to clean them with a fiberless cloth.

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You should have the hotend and feeder ready to save them for a rainy day. Bag them so they don’t get dust.

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Time to install the new um2+ hotend!!

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Secure the hotend. Basically the step you did to dissasemble the slideblocks, but reverse it.

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Everything almost ready!

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Remember to recalibrate x/y. With my twisterblocks I didn’t had to do it, but with the original wood blocks you will need to do this.

 if you forgot how to do it. It’s a very good video!

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Time to adjust the firmware!

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Set the Esteps on to 369.0 (Control / Motion & scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img.

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Now the PID of the hotend. (Control / Temperature / scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img.

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Remember to save them!

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Thinks that are different.

UM2+ Fans don’t start to move until they reach 100/255, so you will need to readjust your cooling settings. Ultimaker 2 Firmware has a KICKSTART at 200millisec (keep reading about this on the next point) and a minimum pwm of 20. So for UMO+ you need the Amedee custom firmware builder to make it work easier. The best custom umo+ firmware builder it’s made by @amedee. Read the basic tutorial I made at Ultimaker Original custom firmware builder.

Remember to realign the Z!

Also if you plan to use I2K to go higher than 260C you will need to install a custom firmware.

Enjoy!!!

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Edited by Guest
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Main post updated with first basic steps. Also @meduza, there's no room for the cable grips once the feeder it's installed, it might need to be moved a bit or better, the cable area could be muuuuuch smaller, since the black snake skin thingy of um2+ hotend it's very very flat, so instead of a semicircle C, it could be a U so there's no need to change the size of the feeder part but just the circle that will grip the snakeskin cable thingy.

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In theory you could but...

- You would need to:

a) Use a pt100 amplifier to connect the hotend to the board or..

b) Design an adapter so you can have the thermocuple and swap the pt100 for your heat sensor

Also.

a) The x2 12V fans connected in series so they work as 24V they might or not work. I don't know if someone ever tested them on a umo 19vboard.

I think that's the two mayor problems points to solve.

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Thanks! Does Ultimaker sell the v2 board anywhere? I would consider replacing my electronics, but I wouldn't want to buy a clone, I think I'd want an original board.

 

Sure any ultimaker distributor near your location should sell it. If they don't list it just drop them an email.

You will have to drill the frame to fit the new board and cut a bit of the side for the connectors. Use the github dxf files from umoplus to know where to drill etc. it's quite easy (I used a umo frame and fitted a um2.1.1 board)

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i have a lot of questions, but first well done to the people involved in this :-)

did you use the new stepper motor that came with the upgrade kit, or just use the original?

the "Esteps" setting that you changed, is that due to the new motor or due to the new extruder?

whats the PID setting all about, is that due to a higher wattage heater? do think i need to do the same, as i went for a UM2 hot end assy then fitted the olsson block, i didnt go for the UM2 Plus upgrade.

You didnt mention about changing the pinter head size in the machine settings in cura!

well you saved me the hassel of figuring out the firmware. i had to revert back to the UMO + firmware after my upgrade to the UM2 + firmware.

i didnt like how the bed is leveled for the UM2 and the extruder steps were drifferent and worked in reverse. (i shouldnt of changed so much too soon)

at the moment i using the UM2 + hotend with the UM2 sliding blocks.

this new firmware builder, am i right in thinking that i can now use my UM2 LCD display?

is that what the "full graphic smart controller" is?

do you know where i can buy just the extruder feeder (the white block, not sure whats its called), i have looked every where.

it might of been easier just to buy the upgrade kit but it was too much at around the £330

i bought a Hot end assy clone for £76 inc. heater, sensor and fans

then bought the olsson block on ebay for around £40 pounds (new inc. four different nozzels)

and the UM2 LCD display and controller for £35 (clone)

bought the UM2 sliding block for £20 (clone, but they weren't perfect, had to add some tape to get them the same level)

make my own cables (look the same but took some time).

plus new rods for around £20 (ended up buying them locally, as the ones that arrived in the post were slightly bent)

and before i forget, the fans have failed on the hot end assy after 2wks. (cant expect every thing to work on cheaper clone versions)

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Pid it's different because the heater it's different.

Bed size remains the same, inner area of umo hotend it's also 30x30.

Esteps are the ones of the um2+ feeder indeed.

For um2 if you use the um2 display you will have to make a custom firmware since the endstops are located on different areas.

You will need to run pid autotune and dig a lot to make all that work. Not hard, but that's quite different that buying a um2+ kit.

Ebay/china/aliexpress clones tend to be less than perfect for heavy use. They can work, but don't expect the same quality. Check my China stories https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17068-making-your-own-ultimaker-what-not-to-buy-on-china-stores-personal-experience

And about your nozzles https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21294-cheap-china-nozzles

Edited by Guest

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Update on doing this mod on an ultimaker original: So far so good.

Im beginning the process of applying this mod to an Ultimaker Original. Results so far:

PT100: I ordered an E3D PT100 Amplifier board for the PT100 Conversion, and set the firmware to "PT100 Circuit from Ultimaker 2 Mainboard" This tested well. The wires on the PT100 are quite short, so I'm mounting the Amplifier board close to the end of the cable and extending a cable to it.

Hot End Fan: I pulled 5V off the board somewhere, seems to work fine.

PWM Fans: Seem to work fine at 19V, may investigate lengthening these cables as well.

So far so good......

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I think @amedee will add pt100/e3d to the list of sensors on his custom firmware builder. Also this might be interesting for @lepaul that I think was planning to do the same.

 

pt100 has always been in the sensor list ;)

(What is missing is the possibility to connect it to a non standard pin -- I've been OBE the last couple of weeks, but that will be there one of these days...)

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@schnixx

First!!!

It's your Board 2.1.4?

If 2.1.4 = YES, then

GOTO https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/experimental/ (EXPERIMENTAL)

Choose 'Ultimaker Original +'

And down there, choose to activate this

 

Hot-end fan

If your UMO+ has an Ultiboard 2.1.4 or newer, the hot-end fan is driven by the hot-end temperature.

Check the following option if you have reftrofitted a fan on your hot-end.

Auto fan driven by the first hot-end.

This will add the code that UM2 uses to 'turn on' the 5V fan.

This will make the 'little fan' to turn on, as soon the hotend reach 40C

PLEASE you will be the first to test this, can you tell us if it works? If so we can ask @amedee to past this area from Experimental to the normal generator.

ALSO..

I HIGHLY recommend that you set the 'Fan minimum PWM' to at least 50-80.

And! Choose 'Fan kickstart' to at least 200 ms (the setting that UM2 firmware uses for their fans)

Please, after checking this could you post the results?

EDIT NOTE: There's no real need to touch any other setting, unless your umo+ has other mods like gt2, etc etc etc.

Edited by Guest
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Just chiming in that I've been very happy installing this mod on my Ultimaker original (non plus). Most of my test prints came out really well although I'm still chasing some skipped steps because of my recent switch to TMC2100 drivers. Its amazing the quality i'm getting out of my 4 year old machine compared to newer machines my friends have gotten on the cheap

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Just chiming in that I've been very happy installing this mod on my Ultimaker original (non plus). Most of my test prints came out really well although I'm still chasing some skipped steps because of my recent switch to TMC2100 drivers. Its amazing the quality i'm getting out of my 4 year old machine compared to newer machines my friends have gotten on the cheap

Super! Any print test to show?

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