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svetsch

Complete heated bed kit for Ultimaker

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Hello,

I just finished setup my own heated bed using an 6mm aluminium plate and the common reprap PCB heating plate.

Before, I tried also the glass one, but it didn't heated that well.

Now, it works well. But I found it rather difficult to choose all the parts and to find store to get them, specially the correct aluminium plate.

Now I would be interested to help other getting their own heated bed.

For that, a good solution would to sell a kit containing:

* The aluminium plate with all holes done for Ultimaker

* The PCB heater

* A 30A car relay

* All the cables

* The small parts (diodes, resistors, thermistor, etc...)

* Optionally, everything soldered together

In other words, everything except the 30A 12V power supply that you can find everywhere.

My question: How much would you willing to pay for that kit?

 

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My question: How much would you willing to pay for that kit?

 

Interesting question. Hopefully something less than $200.

Here is the most complete comparable system I could find so far:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/3D-Printer-Heatbed-Hot-End-heater-with-thermocouple-sensor-200W-controller-/321111260236?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac3b8fc4c

"3D Printer Heatbed & Hot End heater with thermocouple sensor 200W controller

FULL set 3D printer's heater, one package heating parts for $189.99 USD"

Would you be using MIC-6 aluminum?:

http://www.alcoa.com/industrial/en/products/product.asp?market_cat_id=534&prod_id=619

I am also interested in knowing what the software requirements are for making Marlin and Cura capable of dealing with as heated bed.

 

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I already have a heated bed but I would have paid $100 for everything *including* the power supply. I think you should include that. Just buy it and resell it like the rest of the parts. Or offer to sell the kit with or without the power supply.

 

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A proper pricing is 2.3x your part price. This might sound like a lot, but it's a known working and proper formula for OpenSource products.

Don't forget that you also spend time to communicate with customers and will get faulty parts that you'll have to replace.

 

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I second the 2.3x formula.

People always want it for close to cost, but you will wind up supporting the Add-On in both a sales/info side and technical support too.

Make it a complete package so the customer has everything they need without shopping for items that may not be very common where they are

 

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Thanks for your answers!

I will discuss with my metal provider for the MIC-6, I agree that should be better.

For the question with or without power supply, as I am in Switzerland, international postal charges are very high for heavy things, I just wanted to lower the shipping price ;-)

 

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It is controlled by the ultimaker, but the power circuits are seperated from each other (on a seperate small board with a photocouple (hope thats the right word^^) an an own mosfet), so a failure in the hotbed circuit cant affect the ultimaker. and unlike a relay its PWM-controllable if marlin is set to.

I'll be translating my post within this week

 

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A good heated bed kit should include longer rods and hardware for mounting the X and Y steppers *outside* the box so people can make a heated chamber instead of a heated bed.

 

No extra parts are needed to move the X/Y steppers into cool air outside of the box. Simply mount them outside without spacers, reposition the belt pulleys appropriately, and continue to use the short belts. Direct drive is not necessary. If you don't want to rebuild Marlin, just swap the two wire pairs within the white connector shells at the Arduino board to make the motors run the correct direction.

 

I will discuss with my metal provider for the MIC-6, I agree that should be better.

 

I have a 10" x 11" x 5/16" bed made from Mic-6 tooling plate with a 10" x 11" silicone heater (oversize so no cool edges/corners within the build area). Mic-6 is great! It's very, very flat and stable with temperature changes. I wish my entire Z-stage were made of Mic-6. 6mm/1/4" Mic-6 would be wonderful, if you can provide it..

 

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I saw somewhere that the best setup for smooth prints uses a thin ceramic glass (borosilicate, Pyrex, etc) print plate on top of an aluminum heat plate with a silicone heater under the aluminum heat plate and an insulator under the heater.

The sandwich they described looked like this:

glass surface (possibly swappable)

aluminum plate

silicone heater (faster heating)

insulation

plywood gantry platform

Does that sound about right?

Anyway, if somebody is selling a complete kit like that with thumb wheel bed leveling designed in, I'd pay $400 (possibly more) for that setup if it included mosfet-based, UM-controlled switching electronics, a power supply, and instructions.

 

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1) The glass is more important than the heat for smooth bottoms on your prints. And good sticking (parts don't pop off easily) if you simply first coat with very thin layer of either gluestick or woodglue/water mixture. This is discussed right now heavily over on this other topic:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3016-while-waiting-for-the-heated-bed-printing-on-glass/

2) If you want a heated bed so you can print ABS, then what you describe is probably the best way to go. However I recommend you wait until UM offers a UM1 heated bed upgrade. It's almost certainly going to happen in 2014. I have a heated bed myself but I rarely use it as I've learned other techniques (e.g. brim, alcohol cleaned blue tape, etc).

 

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Thanks for the link gr5.

I'm thinking about the heated bed for PLA and perhaps nylon. I don't mean to be overly pessimistic about the time frame for the UM1 kit, but they've been talking about releasing a heated bed kit for the UM1 since I ordered my UM1 nearly a year ago.

Maybe I can get by for a few months just using a glass plate. I have some PVA book binding glue and hairspray I could try on it. I've been attempting to print cases in PLA that are 170mm x 150mm x 12mm tall for holding solar cells and blue tape on the acrylic platform just doesn't keep it flat, no matter what I clean it with. The casing warps at the corners and pulls the tape right off the platform.

 

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and pulls the tape right off the platform.

 

Oh. Well obviously it's sticking to the tape okay, lol. So for this particular issue I recommend wider tape. I use 2 inch tape from home depot (or any paint store). Illuminarti uses 6 inch wide tape!

 

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Oh. Well obviously it's sticking to the tape okay, lol. So for this particular issue I recommend wider tape. I use 2 inch tape from home depot (or any paint store). Illuminarti uses 6 inch wide tape!

 

I use 3" wide rolls of Scotch blue tape that I get on Amazon. The tension on a part that large and flat is just too much for the tape to stay stuck to the acrylic.

I actually grabbed a square of mirror glass real cheap at Lowe's yesterday that I'm going to try. If the PLA heat doesn't make it shatter, I'll use that until the kit appears. If it shatters, I'll order a square of borosilicate glass. At this point, I think glass + PVA glue is my only hope of getting a flat print that large until I can get a heated bed.

 

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Still trying. Used a 3 to 1 mixture of PVA glue on my last attempt and the model still curled up at the corners. I'm trying to figure out what to try next. I may return to using tape and bind the tape down with some reinforcement of some sort. I sure wish they'd hurry up and release that HBP + gantry for the Ultimaker 1. I need it bad. (That's what she said...)

 

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