More information during print

[eldrick 65]

It would be nice to be able to see the SD card files in other than random order.

[cloakfiend 995]

Lol, i agree, i gave up stressing and just deleted them all, so i only have one on the card, or if you have loads just name them like 11111111111111111111.gcode, or xxxxxxx1111xxxxxxxxx.gcode or something really easy to spot if you have a lot of files names, but make sure you then get rid of those, or you will have a memory stick full of 111111111, 222222222, 3333333, lol. But I agree it gets annoying having to look for them, especially if you are rushing due to trying to maintain heat in the nozzle, as every second longer cools the head down a little bit whihc can also lead to problems down the line.

[ppyromann 0]

The only time I have had a problem trying to find a file to print is if I overwrite a file with the same name. From my experience it seems that the files are sorted by 'Date Created' instead of 'Date Modified'. Ideally it would be listed by Latest to Oldest, by Date Modified.

[cloakfiend 995]

Mine used to arrange by date of and just put it as the last file, but now its totally random.

[tinkergnome 927]

It would be nice to be able to see the SD card files in other than random order.

 

The short answer is:

The Arduino is just a schmuck - a poor devil - it has not enough resources (especially: RAM) to sort the folder content on the fly. Don't forget: it's still just a microcontroller without a huge operating system in the background...

I found a good explanation of the FAT32 sort order and a possible solution at this code project site.

Google says: there are quite a few (ready to use) tools out there that can sort files on the USB stick or the sdcard - but this depends on your OS and would be an additional step in the workflow.

Maybe it's worth a feature request for Cura?

[KevinMakes 22]

ooooh a prebuilt firmware for dual extrusion with the ultimaker2? good! the cura version+ some tweaks is getting really old and I dont have the time to commit to a full rebuild

[eldrick 65]

I just installed your 15.09, and love the first-level menu/reorganization. Those six choices are exactly the ones I constantly use in my workflow - saves a lot of clicking.

Perfect!

[gpb01 23]

@tinkergnome:

Hi tinkergnome,

I would like to ask you if, in a next release, you can implement a little new feature using some spare I/O which are available on the UM2 board (I don't know on UMO and UMO+).

If you look on the board docs, you will find that there is a spare connector, called J23, defined "EXT I/O", which brings GND, +5V, PC7 and PD7 I/O pins.

My request is : can you read one of these free pins (PC7 or PD7) and, if it goes low you pause the printer until it go back high (... maybe you can define it INPUT_PULLUP) ?

I explain the reason for my request ...

... I do not know if you saw THIS product, best described HERE ... quite easy to attach under the UM2 feeder and very useful to detect the blocking of the filament caused by various problems.

By implementing my proposal, it would be possible to have the same functioning that is shown in the linked pages and that you can see running on MakerBot (... see youtube movies)

Thanks in advance,

Guglielmo

[tinkergnome 927]

My request is : can you read one of these free pins (PC7 or PD7) and, if it goes low you pause the printer until it go back high (... maybe you can define it INPUT_PULLUP) ?

Hi Guglielmo,

that's nice - i read about this months ago and couldn't find it anymore... now i have back the link

It sounds like you have already bought one of these? Have you already made some explorations with it?

It's basically the expensive (but complete...) version of the thoughts that Nils recently had (@NBroenner).

He already discovered the right mapping for these pins on the ATmega2560 - it should be PC7 = 30; PD7 = 38

Setting the pinMode to INPUT_PULLUP and detecting the LOW-state sounds pretty simple and should be possible without harm to other users... like me....

I'm inclined to give it a try...

@NBroenner:

I think, this behaviour should even be compatible with your idea - because both sensors use the same pin with the same intention (your idea is a lot cheaper of course...). What do you think?

[gpb01 23]

... It sounds like you have already bought one of these? Have you already made some explorations with it?

Yes, I bought one from ToyBuilderLabs (... good electronics, very low quality "plastic/mechanical" structure ... fortunately all is public available, so ... I printed a new, much better quality, "mechanical" structure with ColorFabb PLA/PHA ). And YES, is quite expensive.

Now I'm studying a way to attach it below the feeder ...

... but I'm not a good 3D CAD designer ... :D:D

 

He already discovered the right mapping for these pins on the ATmega2560 - it should be PC7 = 30; PD7 = 38

Better to refer to Pighixxx's cards ... look HERE

Yes, PC7 is the physical pin 60 of the ATmega2560 which corresponds, in the mapping of Arduino, to D30/A15. PD7 is the physical pin 50 corresponding to D38 (... or Timer0 external clock input).

Both PC7 and PD7 are available on the large connector of "Arduino Mega 2560" so ... compatible with the UMO

If you need other info on the hardware, please ask

Guglielmo

Edited October 2, 2015 by Guest

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I don't really like the idea of adding an additional part toughing the filament. It will increase friction again. Wouldn't it be an idea to integrate it into the feeder and "read" the movement of the bearing already in the feeder mechanism?

[Labern 774]

I agree with ultiarjan. Looking at the assembly this should be simple enough to do.

I was thinking about something like this the other day so I'm glad I read this. Now I'm interested in NBroenner's idea.

[gpb01 23]

I don't really like the idea of adding an additional part toughing the filament.  It will increase friction again.

 

You have to move just a rotary encoder ... not so strong

 

 

Wouldn't it be an idea to integrate it into the feeder and "read" the movement of the bearing already in the feeder mechanism?

 

Is quite easy to remove the ball bearing mounted on the encoder and to make a straight connection between the encoder and the stepper-motor axis, fixing all in front of the feeder

Guglielmo

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Think you don't want it mounted to the motor axis as this will continue rotating in case of issues like grinded fillament. I was thinking if you could read a pattern like black lines on the side of the feeder ball bearing.

[gpb01 23]

Think you don't want it mounted to the motor axis as this will rotating in case of issues like grinded fillament. I was thinking if you could read a pattern like black lines  on the side of the feeder ball bearing.

 

Ouch ... You right ... I'm stupid

If you are still afraid by the "rotary encoder" friction and if you use filament spool, is likely more easy to optically detect spool movement

Guglielmo

[meduza 191]

 

@tinkergnome: Just installed the 15.09 version, fantastic work, the new menu is way more to my liking than the original!

[tinkergnome 927]

My request is : can you read one of these free pins (PC7 or PD7) and, if it goes low you pause the printer until it go back high (... maybe you can define it INPUT_PULLUP) ?

 

I borrowed some code from @NBroenner "filament_sensor" branch and published a test release right now.

The compiled hex file monitors the PC7 input pin and triggers the pause menu if it is pulled down to LOW (during printing from sdcard *). Resuming the print is done manually via the menu.

This version has survived a 3 hour print (without a connected sensor of course) - so at least the idea with internal pullup resistor seems to work pretty well.

@gpb01 - now it's your turn!

* during printing via usb one could probably also pause the print - and resume automatically if the state goes back to HIGH - but this is not implemented (yet).

[gpb01 23]

@tinkergnome:

Thanks a lot for the quick implementation !

... as soon as possible (I have to fix the mechanics and to prepare a 6 pin cable to connect to J23) I will try and I will let you know

Guglielmo

P.S.: I never print through USB so ... is ok

[gpb01 23]

@tinkergnome:

OK, so ...

1. Designed a very simple bracket to fix the filament monitor on the back of UM2 (... yes I'm NOT a designer so ... if somebody do better ... is welcome ). You can find HERE

2. Used the original cable and connector. Just rearranged the pin order on the connector, side UM2 (on the top first row of J23 you have, from left to right, pin 5, 3, 1 which are PC7, +5V, GND, which are, on filament monitor, red, white, black). See 1st image.

3. Fixed the "filament monitor bracket + filament monitor" on the back of UM2 using the two holes already present to fix the Z-axis microswitch. See 2nd and 3rd image.

4. Uploaded the new firmware

5. Fixing the "filament monitor" on the back of Z-axis microswitch probably change the zero position of the bed (you have to totally remove the old screw and to insert the new ones) so ... did "Advanced -> Adjust buildplate" to recalibrate.

6. Crossed the fingers :Dand started a long print ... I will let you know

Guglielmo

Edited October 5, 2015 by Guest

[gpb01 23]

... update:

Simulate a filament lock, detected by "filament monitor" ... immediate reaction of the new firmware that has put the printer in pause

Restart printing without any problem (it's just necessary to remember to push the "reset" button on "filament monitor" to reset it after a lock).

All is working fine ...

Guglielmo

P.S.: I have also increased the timeout on the "filament monitor" from 8 sec. to 15 sec. ... better to avoid fake alarms on some small parts

Edited October 4, 2015 by Guest

[gpb01 23]

@tinkergnome:

After 2 days and some prints I can confirm you that all is working fine

Guglielmo

[rigs 735]

oufffff Now this firmware is not a baby but a teenager...probably the best example of open source system.

Big thanks @tinkergnome !

[justinbxr 1]

Hey guys my name is Justin, and I am an inventor and 3d printing enthusiast. I just finished testing my low filament detector for 3d printers. When your filament runs low it will sound the alarm giving you time to pause or reload your filament. This item is very simple but also very reliable, when your half way through a five hours print and your printer runs out of filament, this will save the day. It will also save you money by letting you use that last little bit of filament left on each roll.

Each unit comes with 5 tops so you can pick the color that matches your printer.

It will work with 1.75 or 3mm filament, by changing a part that is included.

Check out the videos.

Edited October 9, 2015 by SandervG

[gpb01 23]

Nice and useful , but the "Tunell Monitor", as the name says, is different and does much more because he monitors the movement of the filament and automatically pause the printer not only if the filament is missing, but also if the filament is not moving for a certain period (e.g. clogged nozzle)

Guglielmo

Edited October 9, 2015 by Guest

[tinkergnome 927]

Hi tinkerers an printerers...,

the October release of the tinker firmware is out now, the latest changes are:

 

• support for filament sensor on pin PC7 - see above
  
• revised menu for the motion settings, additional menu for axis steps/mm
  
• for the dual extruder version: swap primary/secondary extruder
  

 

I could not test the first by myself, but i trust Guglielmo, that it works...

The latter is also not tested in real life, because i don't have a dual extruder setup. If anyone has a need for it - please try it out and share your feedback.

@ultiarjan - i count on you...

That's it. A few pictures for illustration:

Edited October 20, 2015 by Guest