More information during print

[tinkergnome 927]

Now that's awesome! With that and a large linear calibration print I could calibrate the two heads of the magnetic head changer really fast.

 

Cool... and already the first accidental use case...

That's why it's called the "tinker" firmware...

[frederiekpascal 193]

 

@tinkergnome any progress on the "more info during usb printing"?

[markusmaker 2]

 

If you can give me a starting point for development :-)

 

mm-hmm, what is your starting point / previous knowledge?

 

ObjC / C dev on OSX :-) Managed to install all the stuff, changed a bit of code on MarlinSimulator because it is not 64bit nor portable to Standard C99. Now Codeblocks is unable to find SDL, need to figure that out...

[tinkergnome 927]

@tinkergnome any progress on the "more info during usb printing"?

 

any efforts? - yes

any progress? - i hope so...

I think you can test it soon... stay tuned... - i need some sleep first...

[frederiekpascal 193]

 

@tinkergnome any progress on the "more info during usb printing"?

 

any efforts? - yes

any progress? - i hope so...

I think you can test it soon... stay tuned... - i need some sleep first...

 

a w e s o m e ! looking forward to it! <3

[DidierKlein 729]

@tinkergnome not sure what is happening but i had it happen twice on me:

Start the print, then i get a nice Z switch error. No matter what i do the Z switch looks broken.

Then i do a reset factory settings and everything works nicely again. Using the last one (i think) only thing particular is the led settings that are set to on when printing and retraction settings at the end of the print that are different.

[tinkergnome 927]

@tinkergnome not sure what is happening but i had it happen twice on me:

 

Hi Didier,

i also suspect a problem with the saved settings, probably missing or wrong values for the print area?

I noticed recently that this can occur, especially if you skipped one or another release...

I made some changes on this for the next version - it should be more stable for the future.

Good to hear that you already found the right solution.

[tinkergnome 927]

@tinkergnome any progress on the "more info during usb printing"?

 

An "USB printing" screen with some (hopefully useful...) informations is implemented in V15.12

You can give it a try, if you like.

[gr5 2,176]

tinkergnome - can you give a brief explanation of the different types (locations?) of memory for the arduino and where the settings such as Z calibration are stored and how come they don't get destroyed when you upgrade but sometimes they get messed up?

[gpb01 23]

Hi gr5, for the AVR memory map (AVR is the Atmel series of MCU used on Arduino UNO, Mega, Leonardo, etc ... NOT in Arduino DUE, Zero, and other using ARM) you can read HERE.

They use for the tutorial the ATMega8515, on the Arduino MEGA 2560 you have the ATmega2560 MCU which have :

Flash (program memory) : 256 KB (of which 8 KB used by bootloader)

SRAM : 8 KB

EEPROM : 4 KB

Hope this help

Guglielmo

[tinkergnome 927]

tinkergnome - can you give a brief explanation of the different types (locations?) of memory for the arduino and where the settings such as Z calibration are stored and how come they don't get destroyed when you upgrade but sometimes they get messed up?

 

Ok, the explanation for the latter is:

The use of the EEPROM was a fragile hack in my early firmware attempts.

There was no proper versioning in the beginning and this resulted in a certain probability to read uninitialized values from the memory (especially if one skipped one or another version...).

This should be solved in more recent versions. A version number is stored besides the data and the settings are initialized with defaults if the stored version does not match.

The same occurs on a factory reset.

Some start adresses:

 

• 0x64  - (inherited) Marlin configuration store - this is always stored "all in once", the homing offsets are stored in the array "add_homing"

• 0x400 - FIRST_RUN_DONE - a flag to indicate a completed "First run wizard"

• 0x401 - start of the "tinker" memory area

• 0x700 - lifetime statistics (accumulated printing time)

• 0x800 - Ultimaker material settings

 

I think, that's it. You can use the links as a starting point if you want to dive into...

Edited December 12, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 2,176]

So if I do a factory reset do I lose all my lifetime statistics?

[tinkergnome 927]

So if I do a factory reset do I lose all my lifetime statistics?

 

No no, the lifetime statistics stays always untouched.

Actually only the version numbers are deleted and after the restart the defaults are loaded.

Search for doFactoryReset() in UltiLCD2_menu_maintenance.cpp.

[morfeushav 3]

Hello Tinker Gnome, first at all give you thanks you very much for your wonderfull firmware for ultimaker 2.

I am very newbie in all this stuff. I was looking and looking on net, information relation of how modified the x,y,z step to calibrate my ultimaker. I have discovered you firmware for my ultimaker 2 and that has been my salvation.

After many calibrate printing I can´t be able to make circles with the correct measurement. On X and Y axle I´ve got diferences of 0.05 to 0.12 after correcting (thanks you to your firmware,very easy to do for newbie like me), but circles does not has the correct measurement yet.

My question... Some one could help me with this? Some one knows why this happened? (the distance and paralelism between on X and Y axle is pèrfect)

Questions to Tinkergnome.... On your firmware I can set x,y,z step with measurement of "0.0 mm", why I can not set for measurement of "0.00 mm" to make it more exact?

Thanks you in advance to all you, forgive me my bad english, and forgive me this possible stupid question,

Regards.

Edited December 14, 2015 by Guest

[tinkergnome 927]

My question... Some one could help me with this? Some one knows why this happened? (the distance and paralelism between on X and Y axle is pèrfect)

 

To be honest - i never made such calibrations (or thought about it...)

Perhaps there is slightly hardware problem? You could try to check (and tighten) the belts.

Or perhaps it's just the model that shrinks at a different rate at the other axis?

 

Questions to Tinkergnome.... On your firmware I can set x,y,z step with measurement of "0.0 mm", why I can not set for measurement of "0.00 mm" to make it more exact?

 

Perhaps i'm wrong, but you're talking about the precision of the "Axis steps per mm", right?

I just thought that there's no need for a more precise adjustment...,

if i was wrong i can easily change it for the next release.

Till then, you can connect to the printer with pronterface and change the settings with (manually) gcode commands.

For example:

 

;set axis steps per unitM92 X80.00 Y80.00;store settingsM500

 

Edited December 14, 2015 by Guest

[Labern 774]

Just changing the temp can effect the size of circles.

[morfeushav 3]

Perhaps i'm wrong, but you're talking about the precision of the "Axis steps per mm", right?

I just thought that there's no need for a more precise adjustment...,

if i was wrong i can easily change it for the next release.

For example:

 

;set axis steps per unitM92 X80.00 Y80.00;store settingsM500

 

 

Hello tinkergnome, thanks you for your reply. Yes , is about it. If you could modify it on your next release it will be great.

Thanks you for all.

[morfeushav 3]

Just changing the temp can effect the size of circles.

 

I will test it, thanks you very much.

[mmcgraw74 1]

... update:

Simulate a filament lock, detected by "filament monitor" ... immediate reaction of the new firmware that has put the printer in pause

Restart printing without any problem (it's just necessary to remember to push the "reset" button on "filament monitor" to reset it after a lock).

All is working fine ...

Guglielmo

P.S.: I have also increased the timeout on the "filament monitor" from 8 sec. to 15 sec. ... better to avoid fake alarms on some small parts

 

Guglielmo,

Thanks for your great UM2 upgrade idea, and thanks to Tinkergnome for his great UM2 firmware update. I just installed my Tunell Filament Monitor on my UM2 as you described, but I had unusual noises in my feeder and noticed fairly high tension on the connection from the output of the filament monitor to the feeder. I moved my filament monitor closer to the feeder as my photo shows, using a longer bolt to attach to the left servo cover - now the feeder noise is gone.

Thanks,

Monty

[mmcgraw74 1]

 

... update:

Simulate a filament lock, detected by "filament monitor" ... immediate reaction of the new firmware that has put the printer in pause

Restart printing without any problem (it's just necessary to remember to push the "reset" button on "filament monitor" to reset it after a lock).

All is working fine ...

Guglielmo

P.S.: I have also increased the timeout on the "filament monitor" from 8 sec. to 15 sec. ... better to avoid fake alarms on some small parts

 

Guglielmo,

Thanks for your great UM2 upgrade idea, and thanks to Tinkergnome for his great UM2 firmware update.  I just installed my Tunell Filament Monitor on my UM2 as you described, but I had unusual noises in my feeder and noticed fairly high tension on the connection from the output of the filament monitor to the feeder.  I moved my filament monitor closer to the feeder as my photo shows, using a longer bolt to attach to the left servo cover - now the feeder noise is gone.

Thanks,

Monty

 

I also updated the monitor timeout to 16 seconds. I'll bet the 8 second default timeout is fine for the 1.75mm printers or filament, but not the 2.85mm we use.

Monty

[gpb01 23]

... but I had unusual noises in my feeder and noticed fairly high tension on the connection from the output of the filament monitor to the feeder.

 

Hi Monty,

mmm, no, I have not noticed these "noises" ... perhaps the screw that adjusts the distance of the ball bearing was too tight and requires a greater effort from the feeder ?

Guglielmo

[RetromanIE 41]

Since the latest version of this firmware I've had a lot of "Error - Stopped. Heater Error" errors when printing.

How can i adjust the settings to minimise this? I'm using a Venkel shroud instead of the standard and my fan settings are 40 min and 70 max in Cura for all prints.

Any Ideas?

Thanks

[tinkergnome 927]

Since the latest version of this firmware I've had a lot of "Error - Stopped. Heater Error" errors when printing.

How can i adjust the settings to minimise this? I'm using a Venkel shroud instead of the standard and my fan settings are 40 min and 70 max in Cura for all prints.

 

@RetromanIE

There's only one adjustable setting that is related to this:

Advanced -> Preferences -> Heater Timeout -> Period of max. power

Can you check this? The default is 30 sec.

A "heater error" is triggered if the nozzle heater is driven with maximum power and the temperature doesn't rise by (at least) 10°C within this period of time.

[RetromanIE 41]

 

Since the latest version of this firmware I've had a lot of "Error - Stopped. Heater Error" errors when printing.

How can i adjust the settings to minimise this? I'm using a Venkel shroud instead of the standard and my fan settings are 40 min and 70 max in Cura for all prints.

 

@RetromanIE

There's only one adjustable setting that is related to this:

Advanced -> Preferences -> Heater Timeout -> Period of max. power

Can you check this? The default is 30 sec.

A "heater error" is triggered if the nozzle heater is driven with maximum power and the temperature doesn't rise by (at least) 10°C within this period of time.

 

Thanks, I didn't really understand what the setting meant. Now I do

I might change it to 45-60 seconds and see what happens. Perhaps I should also reduce the fan setting to 60-65 max in Cura advanced settings as maybe 70 is too high for the Venkel shroud.

Edit:

And yes it is set to 30 seconds as default in my settings.

Edited December 23, 2015 by Guest

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

 

@RetromanIE, I recommend you test the system first without fans in order to be sure everything is thermally ok. IMHO it's not a good idea to weaken a safety routine. You may check the thermal contact between heater cartridge and heater block as well as the temp sensor. Do you have an original heater cartridge with 25W? Have you measured the resistance of it? There have been reports of weak ones, down to 18W iIrc. Better safe than sorry...