OK version 3 straight off the press.
First off I feel I must apologise to Anders as the design looks to be a complete rip off of his. However there really doesn't seem to be many other options without further modifications to the fan mount.
I have come up with a solution to the heater and sensor clamp.
The block thickness has been increased be 0.5mm. not much but I wanted to get the nozzle in as deep as possible to allow for greater heat transfer. The thread going to the cold block has lost 0.5mm height and the diameter beneath has been reduced to 4.70 from 5mm. I hoping this will reduce heat transfer to the cold end all be it marginal.
The plan with the clamp at the back of the block is to run an M2 through into a hole in the fan mount. This should fix the heater and sensor in place as well as preventing rotation of the block. It should also reduce heat transfer to the cold end heat sink.
I was also thinking of mounting small heat sink to the cold end plate.
Thought this might increase the life span of the Teflon insert.
Have at it people, cruel to be kind an all that!
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I haven´t really thought about that, but it is worth investigating.
If you go for stainless steel you more or less end up with something that looks like the E3D-V6 hotend: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6-Documentation
In my design the bits would have been too tiny and the threads too short, so I abandoned the idea of a two piece heater block at some early stage of the design.
In theory this would help, but I have not thought about doing something like that yet. Mainly because it requires custom tools and custom nozzles.
My design was based on what I could get made in my local workshop with tools they already had combined with the design challenge of not having to modify any other component of the printer. That is why it ended up like it did. :smile:
The same compromises were made regarding the material. I could have chosen something else than brass, we actually have a lot of rare high performance materials. But I did not immediately see any much better option and I know brass is easy to machine and safe to use.
The temperature differences inside the heater block is not more than a few degrees, so I don't think you have to go for lower thermal conductivity really. But it is fun to think about the options of course :smile:
I will reply to you about nozzle geometry in the other thread.
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