Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[melkolo 5]

Printing the UM robot was the only real test i carried just to see if the cooling was up to making both sides look good, because the right hand side normally suffers with the standard fan shroud. here is a link to Sprints web site you can see all the testing he carried out seems quite extensive.

Yes i also feel that could be improved, maybe that could be version 2. For now i have left that alone and is as the original design by Sprint, i only adjusted it to work with Anders heater block so now there is a much bigger air gap between block and shroud to stop heat deformation of the shroud and making access for a quick nozzle change..

 

cor3ys

I printed and install the fan shroud, but I ran into problem you maybe able to help me. When I went to re-level the print table the shroud be lower when the head comes to the front of the table it comes up to and over the clips that hold the glass down, thus not leaving any room for adjustment. Did you experience this if so what was your fix / work around.

 

[cor3ys 28]

Hi MelKolo

No i have not had any issues when leveling the bed, in fact i always run the bed leveling every time i change nozzles just to make sure all is fine. The shroud does not hit any of my front clips at all...

Are you running the latest firmware ?

My UM2 is from 2013 so i don't know if they change the clips in any way from what i have on my machine since then..

How much extra clearance are you looking for ?

 

[melkolo 5]

Hi cor3ys

I'm running the latest firmware, 15.02.1 Currently the shroud will actually go over the clip....I had to remove the shroud because I started the re-leveling process and didn't think at the time to take a picture to show the problem. As for the amount of clearance I would say a 1mm. So instead of lowering the shroud 8mm ......7mm would work better for me, not sure about others. I have a seat of Solidworks not sure if I can convert the STL to SW format to rise it, their's a limitation on file size / triangles SW will convert. What program did you use to modify it?

 

[cor3ys 28]

OK just made you a 7mm one give me 5 minutes to upload it to my server, I will PM you the link, if it works out OK let me know and i will add it to youmagine for others to chose either the 8mm or 7mm...

 

[melkolo 5]

Thanks...I'll keep you updated.

 

[titanoid 4]

This weekend I finally found time to install the new heater block.

And ran into major problems.

About 4 months ago I applied heat conductive paste on both heater and sensor to get rid of an occurring temp amplitude of +/-10° during prints. That worked perfectly for that issue, details http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6517-um2-temperature-vary/.

But as you read this, you might imagine my problem already:

The paste dried and converted to a concrete-like super glue...

Well not that hard, but friction-locked enough in an already tight place.

That stuff (xilence x5 thermal grease) seems to be kind of soluble in alcohol, so I soaked the entire head in it over night.

Still nothing that moves. Tomorrow I'll have a try with an ultrasonic bath.

If that doesn't work, I must decide to either destroy heater and sensor or nozzle block.

Have no spare electronics, but the olsson-block. Still a hard decision...

So, suggestions from the almighty crowd?

 

[personal-drones 44]

I would probably leave the sensors on the original block and get new sensors to use on the Ander's block. A pity that those sensors are so expensive, however this way, you still have a fully functional original block if you need it. Otherwise you risk to trash the sensors and/or the original block.

 

[gr5 2,172]

I would also probably wait for Anders and order the temp sensor. However if you don't want to wait, drill a small hole very carefully big enough for paper clip wire to slip through on the wall of the heater block opposite the existing holes. Don't drill too far! Then remove the drill and push out the probe with a paper clip.

You probably want to drill a little, then check the hole then repeat 10X or 20X so you don't drill too far. However our hands are very sensitive to tiny changes in movement and you might be able to sense when you "punch through" from brass to steel.

 

[gr5 2,172]

Oh - also try twisting it gently while hot - around 110C (not 180C that's not necessary).

 

[titanoid 4]

I would probably leave the sensors on the original block and get new sensors to use on the Ander's block. A pity that those sensors are so expensive, however this way, you still have a fully functional original block if you need it. Otherwise you risk to trash the sensors and/or the original block.

 

Yeah, that would be totally wise. But who knows how long I'll have to wait for the new parts... Decisions decisions...

I think I'll try drilling holes from the opposite side if the ultrasonic does nothing.

As I estimated from Anders' section drawing these holes have to be about 6.5 mm deep, could that be right?

 

[mohissa 0]

Titanoid,

A combination of WD40 and heating the block to 100C-110C worked for me.

good luck.

 

[melkolo 5]

Thanks...I'll keep you updated.

 

cor3ys

Much better....see pics

 

[cor3ys 28]

cor3ys

Much better....see pics

 

Excellent i will upload the 7mm one also to youmagine then people can decided which one to use.

 

[3dnerd 6]

Hi,

I am also interested in this new heaterblock and new isolator.

I read a few pages of this thread, but I still do not know where to order the new heater block, here my questions:

(I live in Germany)

1. Where to order heater block and isolator?

2. Where to order the nozzles?

3. What is the price of heater / isolator?

4. Is there any (save) instruction available how to unmount the UM2 heater/isolator and mount the new heater / isolator?

5. What happens with the warranty of my UM2 if I change heater / isolator?

6. What about the settings in Cura for different nozzle sizes, what I have to consider?

Thanks for any help...

 

[meduza 191]

melkolo: The reason it does not work with 8mm for you is that you have a very large spacing between the stainless isolator and the teflon piece, wich in turn will raise the spring pressure and lead to degradation of the teflon piece much faster.

I would recommend you to adjust it down so you only have 0.5-1mm between the rim of the stainless isolator and the teflon piece (and then it would probably work with the 8mm shroud)

 

[cor3ys 28]

melkolo: The reason it does not work with 8mm for you is that you have a very large spacing between the stainless isolator and the teflon piece, wich in turn will raise the spring pressure and lead to degradation of the teflon piece much faster.

I would recommend you to adjust it down so you only have 0.5-1mm between the rim of the stainless isolator and the teflon piece (and then it would probably work with the 8mm shroud)

 

Good spot Meduza, you are correct there should not be no more than a 1mm gap. that would explain why he had issues...

 

[melkolo 5]

I noticed this ref. past posts .....I do you adjust down?

 

[cor3ys 28]

You need to turn the hot end isolator, you should be able to put an Allen key in the holes and turn it. This will raise or lower it depending which way you turn the isolator.. then the white Teflon piece will sit lower and the nozzle will be lower giving you the clearance for the 8mm shroud.

 

[swordriff 119]

Hi,

I am also interested in this new heaterblock and new isolator.

I read a few pages of this thread, but I still do not know where to order the new heater block, here my questions:

(I live in Germany)

1. Where to order heater block and isolator?

2. Where to order the nozzles?

3. What is the price of heater / isolator?

4. Is there any (save) instruction available how to unmount the UM2 heater/isolator and mount the new heater / isolator?

5. What happens with the warranty of my UM2 if I change heater / isolator?

6. What about the settings in Cura for different nozzle sizes, what I have to consider?

Thanks for any help...

 

Hi 3Dnerd!

Thank you for your elaborate questions!

 

http://www.3dSolex.com

USA, CANADA; Ships from Boston.

Sweden, Denmark, Finland www.3dsolex.com

After March 20th: http://www.3dverkstan.se/

1. Everywhere else, http://www.3dSolex.com.

2. Nozzles same place

3. The price is 59€ for the 3dSolex Block (by Anders Olsson) incl 1 pcs high quality 0.40mm Nozzle

The I2K isolator is in pre-production (acquisition of materials, final adjustment of geometry, and available shortly. it will cost 16€.

It is on sale now!

4. This fantastic video by Mohissa:

 

5. You may break the temp sensor and then need a new one, strictly speaking not covered by the guarantee.

6. When you print with very small or very big (0.25-0.80) nozzles, you must consider bed-gap, no need to have a huge gap with such a tiny nozzle as 025, and vis-a-versa,

also you must consider that when printing with 0.80mm nozzle the hole is 4 times bigger in area than with 0.40. This affects print speed, extruder, need for temperature settings etc. Start slow (20mm/s) and work from there, increasing temp etc.

Dont print PLA higher than 230.

Good luck!

You need UM2 standard tool plus it comes with 2 tools needed for installing except the Torque Wrench (Design Anders) which you print yourself. Use 040 nozzle when printing it, or the "resistor wings" will not come out correctly, or at all! Lesson; in Cura, set nozzle to 025, then 080, and look at the Wrench in layer view.. funnyy!

Torque Wrench

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-torque-wrench

With the small 025 nozzle you can print things like this:

With a big enough nozzle, you could print this:

Edit: The I2K is available now

 

[titanoid 4]

Great overview swordriff!

I finally managed to get the brothers out of the block, thanks to gr5 for the drilling tip!

Now assembling 3Dsolex (really? I would have liked 'The Olsson Block'. Hail the engineer!)

Sorry, am a bit excited.

Must. Print. Now.

 

[gr5 2,172]

Prices in USA/canada/mexico are identical so with recent conversion rate I charged $68. I will update price each time I buy a batch from swordriff. Next batch will be qty 20 or larger (of each thing he is willing to sell).

 

[gr5 2,172]

I finally managed to get the brothers out of the block

 

Phew! That's great news.

If someone *does* damage their temp sensor and they aren't afraid to do a little crafting, you can buy any smd PT100 as they all have the exact same temperature curves because they are all made out of platinum and then build your own probe. The tricky part is you can't use ordinary solder because it will melt so you need something else like maybe a crimp.

 

[swordriff 119]

The Olsson Block!! Hope he is not blocking anything!

 

[Anders Olsson 136]

Great update swordriff!

Thank you for all the effort you put on this, it would have been impossible for me to do this alone.

I have updated the first post in this thread with a link to your overview post.

Regarding the name of the heater block, swordriff suggested 3Dsolex as a company name, so it kind of makes sense to use that name. But if people prefer to call it The Olsson Block, I don't mind :smile:

I really enjoy taking part of all these reviews, photos of printed things, videos, and accessories designed for the heater block!

It makes me feel like it was easily worth the time I spent on getting this thing accessible for other people! :smile:

 

[swordriff 119]

So it is decided then:

3dSolex "The Olsson Block".

Thank you, what a wonderful community!