Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[gr5 2,172]

from UltiArjan:

 

I'd say as a basic 0.4 / 0.6 / 0.8, but smaller maybe for some, larger, yes I have plans to at least try 1mm for spiralised stuff

 

[gr5 2,172]

0.80mm nozzle has 4 times the throughput of 0.40mm (standard) nozzle.

 

Only if you print at the same layer height! If you also double the layer height then you get 8 times the throughput! It seems a bit silly to me to print a .8mm nozzle with .1mm layer height - makes more sense to go maybe .4mm layer height.

 

[cor3ys 28]

rigs; where did you get the steel nozzle, at E3D I only see them for 1.75 fillament ....

 

 

you're right for the moment only 1.75 mm.

I sent an email to E3D this week to know their future plans for 2.85.

Currently it's hope

 

Just ordered a stainless steel nozzle today from e3d as my XT-CF20 arrived today... they have the 3mm available now

 

[swordriff 119]

QUOTE:0.80mm nozzle has 4 times the throughput of 0.40mm (standard) nozzle.

-----------------------------

Only if you print at the same layer height! If you also double the layer height then you get 8 times the throughput! It seems a bit silly to me to print a .8mm nozzle with .1mm layer height - makes more sense to go maybe .4mm layer height.

Sure about that, gr5? Does layerheight affect feeder speed?

[gixxer 1]

Quote:Sure about that, gr5? Does layerheight affect feeder speed?

Did I miss something. Increase in layer hight = more material layer down = greater feeder speed.

[mohissa 0]

Hey guys,

In the process of changing the heater block but the hex screw in the old heater block is stuck. do you think heating the heater block would help? If so, what temp?

Would WD40 help? any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

[mohissa 0]

Never mind, I was able to get it out. The allen key in the kit was not the right fit.

But now the temp. sensor is not coming out. the metal shell is completely inside the heater block and only the wire is visible.

I am afraid to pull too hard on the wire but I dont think I have any other choice.

Again, WD40??

Thanks,

 

[gixxer 1]

It requires very little force to pull the wires out of the sensor. So last resort.

You could try an m2 tap or reamer.

[mohissa 0]

Hello everyone,

So I have spent the better part of last night and this morning working on installing the 3dSolex block. The problem I had was with the temp sensor. All I was able to see coming out of the old black was the wires. I was careful not to pull on them. After a lot of thinking and tinkering, here is how I got it out:

First, I used a very tiny flathead screw driver to re-crimp the wires while the sensor was inside the block. I inserted the screwdriver in the empty space and pried to one side, carefully re-crimping the wire. I wanted to make sure even if I do pull on the wires, they dont come loose.

Then I used some WD40. I sprayed it through the little hole from the bottom and from the top as well. I let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then i sprayed it again and then started the heater. got it up to 100C and started wiggling the wires side to side and started to gently, but firmly, pull on them. I started to see the metal shield, so i decided turn off the heater so I can easily work on it. But lowering the temp. didnt help. So i raised it back up again, and slowly, but surely, got it out.

With all this yanking and pulling, I managed to do some damage to the wire but it still works (for now at least).

I really believe UM should cover me for a new sensor as this is a design flaw. UM offer nozzles on their website, so they do expect us to be able to change them.

I actually shot a video while changing the block. I worked on it all night to make sure someone benefits from my experience.

I am uploading the video to YouTube right now, and will post the link to it here shortly. Please let me know if there are any mistakes, or errors in the video.

Thanks!

 

[mohissa 0]

Here is the video as promised:

 

Thanks,

[edit by gr5 follows]

Excellent video! Try to keep the gap shown in picture below as small as possible. You want *some* gap to be sure the white isolator is touching down inside the block but as small as you can because the larger the gap, the tighter the spring, the faster your isolator will warp:

 

[Labern 774]

If you are changing just the heater block you don't need to undo the whole cold end part.

 

[swordriff 119]

Mohissa!

Thank you so much for the wonderful video and write-up!

For this video I am sending you a new temp sensor, and you will have

an "I2K" (19€) free of charge when it is available, as a modest compensation for this video!

We are hoping you will allow me to use it on our upcoming Web site?!

About Ultimaker:

We are here to make life for Ultimaker better, easier, selling more printers.

I am the first to be sorry that some sensors can not be removed easily.

You got good & lucky. Others will not be able to make it. Many will have

no issue.

Ultimaker have a very generous policy wrgt replacing hot ends and sensors.

In this particular case, a) your sensor did not break, b) we are half far fetched to ask them

for guarantee since the replacement part is not stock.

You have a very good point, in that this problem will arise when changing the

original hot end with another original hot end (who would want to do that?- well

the 3dSolex Block costs money).

Still, you can ask kindly, but this time, and this time only I will take care of you

for the video! I have 1 (one!) stock sensor, eh.. my own. I am sending it to you.

PM me your snail mail address.

The video has 2 minor issues:

After 7:04; text says "horeshoe", rather than "horseshoe".

AND very important:

When re-installing the Bowden, make sure it "enters" the top countersunk flange of the

Teflon coupler! Failing this, there will be endless, hard to diagnose blockages caused

by melted filament! This is a huge trap, I ran into it myself.

To verify the correct seating of the Bowden, it is necessary to use eyes and fingers and see

and feel that it travels the few millimeters down (if one needs to wiggle the tube, hold the

insert with the tiny shark-bites down continuously). Then when the tube is in correct position;

- While holding the Tube down firmly, retract the insert and insert the hor(S)eshoe WHILE holding

the tube down. It is so important to get this right!

I also think removing the fan assembly is not necessary.

When reassembling the complete head, make sure the brass inserts

surrounding the X and Y axis are not displaced.

 

[gixxer 1]

We'll done swordriff it's good to you looking after those buying anders blocks.

And well done Mohissa! Great video.

[personal-drones 44]

Exactly the right video at the right time. Thank you very much

 

Here is the video as promised:

 

Thanks,

 

[rigs 735]

Just ordered a stainless steel nozzle today from e3d as my XT-CF20 arrived today... they have the 3mm available now

 

the same postman

 

Thx cor3sys

 

[cor3ys 28]

Hi Guys

I have been playing with https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount--2#!design-information and modifying it to to work with Anders heater block. I like this design because it is enclosed and stops any temperature errors caused by open bottom designs.

I have lowered the whole thing by 8mm, this means the bottom of anders heater block is 4mm - 4.5mm away from the fan shroud enclosure, this means i did not have to use any tape as per sprint original design.

I have used ABS for the shroud for the last 2 weeks and had no deformation at all (see red shroud above) and currently running a XT-CF20 shroud with no issues at all. both been run with 250 degrees temperature. Have not tried PLA for the shroud.

I have also opened up the nozzle hole to take the socket that is supplied with Anders nozzle for easy changing of nozzles.

 

 

 

 

 

Edit: now posted to https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-shroud

 

[titanoid 4]

Interested! Waited for someone to do this, great work!

Did you do a comparison in print quality before/after?

 

[meduza 191]

Isnt those fan holes too tight, i feel like you restrict the flow too much?

 

[cor3ys 28]

Interested! Waited for someone to do this, great work!

Did you do a comparison in print quality before/after?

 

Printing the UM robot was the only real test i carried just to see if the cooling was up to making both sides look good, because the right hand side normally suffers with the standard fan shroud. here is a link to Sprints web site you can see all the testing he carried out seems quite extensive.

 

Isnt those fan holes too tight, i feel like you restrict the flow too much?

 

Yes i also feel that could be improved, maybe that could be version 2. For now i have left that alone and is as the original design by Sprint, i only adjusted it to work with Anders heater block so now there is a much bigger air gap between block and shroud to stop heat deformation of the shroud and making access for a quick nozzle change..

 

[gr5 2,172]

Sure about that, gr5? Does layerheight affect feeder speed?

 

Well... I guess if you are already printing at the limits of what the feeder can do then you can only print 4X faster.

And if you like to keep the speed slow for high-quality look I guess you also can only go 4X faster because you don't want to increase mm/sec but you are printing with a linearly wider nozzle and you can print thicker layers.

So I guess my 8X claim doesn't work in either case. :(

 

[mohissa 0]

Hey everyone,

I'm glad you all liked the video I posted. I slept at 6am as it took me all night to shoot, edit and publish the video. This is my first tutorial video and I really hope it helps someone with installing/un-installing their hot-end. Please excuse any errors you find, if there are too many, I will republish the video.

Swordriff, I have added annotations to the video that include your comments (horseshoe spelling mistake --> hmm, I think that was around 3am. I guess I'm not responsible for my spelling errors after 12am :-P).

You have full permission to use the video anywhere you would like. I'm a very visual person, and usually search for videos of people's experiences before I try something out. Therefore, the purpose of the video to help those who are not ready to dive-in on their own.

Thanks!

 

[swordriff 119]

Haha! Thanks for your PM.

Would have been fun if we had a video of you, raving in the fumes of PLA, fiddling with the head assembly and mixing up various kinds of shoes! hehe....

 

[gothampixel 10]

I did some weekend printing in preparation for Anders custom heater block I ordered this week.

 

[gr5 2,172]

You didn't get it yet? :(

I shipped 2/18.

 

[gothampixel 10]

I had it shipped to my work address, It might have been delivered after i left for the weekend. Not a problem.