cloakfiend 996
Lol ill do a really quick video just for you! lol. With no talking! lol.
Ok here goes, again, but be ready for some rambling and repeating myself, i will however not explain why i do things ( which is bad for you ) but just my process.
Step 1.
Print your model with the best surface quality you can achieve go for either 0.04 or 0.06 (yes long time prints). If you have lots of uneven lines thats bad.
Step 2.
Take your model off the plate and clean it up to make it as smooth as you can with sandpaper (i use 180 first for nasty bits and 240 as a secondary smoother but this is for flat or plain areas only, you obviously should not sand any detailed areas away!)
Step 3.
Either dip your model in acetone for 45 seconds (no matter what the colour) or brush on acetone/ethyl actate with a clean brush in a thick layer once, and leave to absorb. If its a delicate model then dont lay it on thick or else it WILL warp badly. This is where YOU need to learn what too much is.
Step 4.
After a minute or so the model has absorbed the acetone/ethyl and is no longer wet, so you can pick it up and brush it with a hard brittled tooth brush or scrubbing brush (but not so hard that it leaves marks on the softened PLA) then after youve brushe dit up, leave it for one hour.
Step 5.
You can now examine your object and decide whether you want to sand any areas further and if you do use fine sandpaper like 240, and then simply brush on some acetone or ethyl to remove the fine sanding marks. Then wait one more hour for the acetone ethyl to evaporate.
Step 6.
You're pretty much done by now, You can either polish it up with the rubbing compound if you are going down the ethly acetate route, or just primer it if you are going to paint it.
Thats it, there's nothing to it. This WILL remove vibration marks to an extent but only if they are slight i.e printing at 30mm/s or maximum 50mm/s max, printing at 70 mm/s is a no no in my honest opinion.
BTW not sure if you are into car detailing, but the rubbing cmpound is not wax, its basically liquid sandpaper, it may have wax in it but its not wet once it dries, when you polish a car, you wax it afterwards to protect the hard work of polishing you have carried out, the wet look on a car is the wax not the polish. however as another step, you can wax your models with carnauba wax as well, lol for that concourse look
So there you have it! now when you watch my non talking ultra quick video you will know what im doing. Ill upload one more video with the faces that i did before i do this though.
One thing though i didnt mention in my last post though is that my PLA NEVER goes as white as in your pictures, just parts here and there. Mind you going that white is a good sign, my old Ultimaker filament went that white, as you could see from pictures in my early posts. Might buy some silver colorfabb just to see for myself.
On a final note though is that if you overdoo the acetone you model might split later, yes even weeks later, but you will notice very quickly if you spray it first. Spray paint sometimes accelerates the splitting i think, i might be wrong but whatever, just though id throw that in to confuse you lol!
Have fun!
Ciao for now! check my channel for any video updates.
Edited by Guest- 1
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Edel 5
Hey Cloakfiend,
thank you for your tipps
0,04 and 0,06 is no ptoblem for me, thats my standart
so please allow me to copy your old instructions, which i wrote down to complete the missing points. I think this would also be a good help for others.
Way 1 Dipping.
- Dipping not longer then 45 secounds, depend on filament color, but e.g. 40sec for warm red...
but then my importan question: put it directly out, no cleaning of the wet part? let all aceton on the part? how long did you leave it and let it try, before you brushed it with a toothbrush?
-then directly primar your plasti kote and painting.
- is this all correct or forgot i something?
so the white is no froth up of the pla? i m not so sure in the moment...
you mean its only a change of the color to white?
Way 2
- sanding,
- cleaning of dust
-brushing with aceton, quick, one brushing only, one layer
- 5-10 min.
- brushed it
you still use the mequire polish? i not sure about this before painting, because there is wax inside, or?
My best print quality i dont get with colorfabb, i tested it with the colors silver, white and black.... all are a lot worser, then with inofill filament.
But i know this is only PLA with not PHA
but such a quik video would be nice, no talking, only do it , later you can write something to it
but same short questions are open, i made them bold, that you find it better...
did you show my video of the chloroform?
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