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There was a competition here a couple of years ago. It was the "How far can I throw this printer out a second floor window" competition. The Longer has a nice aluminum handle on top. Just sayin'.

Ich nehme an der Drucker hat erst naxh X0 Filament Rückzug gemacht und Hotend und Heizbett ausgemacht und dann Motoren abgeschaltet? Oder nach X0 nichts mehr gemacht? Ohne genaue Informationen kann man schlecht helfen. Also bisher wenn G91 genutzt wurde, geht nicht mehr ins Minus. Dass der Druckkopf wieder auf X0 fährt gibt es nur 3 Möglichkeiten. 1. Firmware sagt, auf X0 fahren wenn der Druckkopf im Minus Bereich ist; ist auszuschließen, weil sonst kein Filamentscript ausgeführt werden kann. 2. Weil der Druckkopf auf X-20 ist und er gegen den Endschalter fährt, es sei denn er soll dort durch ein Befehl Warten wie G4 oder M25, M600 oder ähnliches. 3. Weil der Drucker diesen Befehl M84 vorher gelesen hat (Drucker liest immer ein Paar Sätze vorraus) und fährt aus Sicherheitsgründen (so in der Firmware hinterlegt) wieder auf X0. Ausprobieren am besten ohne G91, auf der X Achse weniger als X-19 und kein M84, dann sollte er auf X-19 bleiben.

Nochmal alles in ruhe, Hatte nicht ganz verstanden warum du dich so auf den G91 versteift hattest Ich hatte eine andere Schlussfolgerung, aus deinen Bsp. code getroffen. Nur durch deiner Reihenfolgen Änderung von G1 E-35 F100 ;Slow-Einzug hatte er gesehen das er kurz auf X-20. fährt dann den Einzug macht und dann fährt er ja doch wieder auf X0 Trotz komplett ohne G91 fährt er ja dennoch auf X0 Also hat für mich das G91 nicht damit zu tun Und da nichts von X0 in gcode steht habe ich schlussgefolgert das die Firmware eine Routine hat die nach Beendigung des Druckjobs wieder auf X0 fährt @Franke66 Ich habe dir mal ein kompletten gcode erstellt Hier sollte er komplett ohne Heizung und Filament in der Mitte Fahren dann auf Z20 und dann halt auf die X-20. Dort sollte es 5 Sekunden bleiben und dann sollte er wieder auf X0 fahren. Wenn ja können wir dann probieren wie wir es unterbinden könnten Falls er jetzt bei X-20 stehen bleibt, ist meine Theorie hinfällig Gruß Forum_test gcode X0.gcode

You can submit a bug report about the failure to send but unfortunately if you can't recreate it reliably there's only so much they can do. You should include the part about the close button in the dialog box, that part they may be able to help with - it's possible it wasn't removed intentionally, but when Cura moved to a different version of its UI toolkit, for example.

This is a printer issue, not a Cura issue. UltiMaker do not offer support for printers from any other manufacturers and here on the forums while we might help you out if you ask nicely 🙂 I don't think you're going to have much luck necroing a thread over two years old. Actually, while I'm here, I'll move this to the third party products board.

Hallo Member, verstanden habe ich das schon, aber wo was wohin ich setzen soll das ist mein Problem Z.B M600 unterstützt meine Firmware nicht, schon ausprobiert. Vielleicht kannst du mir einen kompletten Code schreiben,dann kann ich ihn ja ausprobieren. Ich habe mit G-Codes noch nie gearbeitet, das ist für mich total neu. Es geht ja nur darum ob er auf der X Achse beim beenden auf X- fährt.

Has anyone found a fix for this issue yet?

Only sometimes: When pressing "Print via cloud" a dialog box appears with "Sending Print Job / Uploading print job to printer" and a progress bar, but the sending never starts. In a previous version of Cura this dialog box could be closed with an x in the upper right corner, and then I could try again. Now I have to close Cura and start it again to try again. This is less than optimal. It only happens sometimes. I haven't seen any system in when it happens. There is no error message, it just seems to wait for something that never happens => wait forever. Please re-enable the close option on the dialog box, alternatively fix the issue 🙂

@cmustang It'd really help if you set your language to English before you take screenshots like this. I can only read half of it because I know what to look for. Have you tried using the latest version of Cura? You may also need to set Windows to make it uses the graphics card for Cura. In Windows 11 you get there by opening settings then going to Display then Graphics. That'll bring up a list of programs which will probably not be everything installed on your computer. If Cura isn't in the list click Browse above the list and add the Cura executable. Once you have Cura in the list, click it and, click Options and there'll be an option to let Windows decide, or to use the power saving (integrated graphics) or high performance (graphics card). Select high performance and click Save

The normal procedure for using the printer is that you slice your model, put the gcode file on an SD card on your computer, then insert the card into the printer and start from the printer's control panel. You can't update the firmware over USB, you need to put the files on a memory card. There should be instructions included with the firmware files. There should also be acceptably translated English instructions after the Chinese ones. As for whether you need to update, especially with Creality firmware, the general rule is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". So unless you experience problems you probably don't need to update the firmware. I can't speak for the S1 Pro, but it looks pretty similar to the E3V2Neo and E3V3SE so the update process might be equally similar. Here's how you do it for the ones I know: You need to format a microSD card (4-16GB, if it came with one that should work) as FAT32 with a sector size of 4096 bytes Copy the firmware file for the screen to the card Insert it into the screen, turn the printer on, wait for it to update (it'll show you on the screen), then turn the printer off Connect the SD card to your computer again, delete the screen firmware file from it and copy the printer firmware file to it Insert the card into the printer, turn it on, it should show it's updating then start normally You can leave the printer firmware file on the card if you want, but probably better if you delete it Of course, this wouldn't be Creality if there weren't some things to bear in mind. This is the part where you should stop reading because you shouldn't worry about it, but I write for my own amusement and hopefully that of other experienced users on the forums. I don't know what happens if you try using a sector size other than 4096 bytes, but any cards more than 16GB can't be formatted with sectors that small. If you need to buy a memory card, and you don't have a stash of them like me from various gadgets, unless you want to order one direct from China it'll probably cost you the same as a 64GB card. I haven't tried using a bigger card but creating a single 16GB partition, but that's a bit beyond the average user (no offence). Both the E3V2Neo and E3V3SE come with a memory card and a USB card reader. I've been through one E3V2Neo and three E3V3SE's and the longest any of the included cards has worked was 3 weeks. The median is two weeks. The card readers tend to not even last that long. If you don't have other cards or card readers, use the ones that came with it. If/when they fail it's not a catastrophic failure, you'll just get errors copying files over, or the printer and computer won't realise a card is connected, or something like that. When the instructions for the E3V2Neo say to insert the memory card into the back of the screen, they mean it literally. You need to unscrew the back cover and there's a microSD slot on the back of the motherboard. On the E3V3SE there's a slot in the side of the screen unit. The E3V2Neo uses microSD cards for its primary storage. The E3V3SE uses a full size SD card, but you still need a microSD card to update the screen. Luckily I found an 8GB microSD card laying around and about a million micro-full size adapters so I just use that. The printer will consider any firmware file which has a different filename to the previous one it installed an upgrade. Actually great for recovery if the update process %#(^s up somehow. Also good for downgrading if an "update" turns to be more of a "downdate". The screen is actually smarter than the printer in this regard, it will only update to newer versions.

Hi, I had the same issue before in cura 4.8 (problem in simulation of printing trajectory by layer not working) I added Cura to my AMD card setting activation and choose to maximaze performance while it is running and it worked. But when i updated to cura 5.3 it nomore works. I tried doing the same but in vain. i Have 2 graphic cards in my laptop: Intel(R) HD Graphics 4000 AMD Radeon HD 7600M Series I can run fusion 360 easily but struggle with cura 5.3.1 Can someone help plz.

Its a few years down the line & have just seen this thread after also loving the hilbert curve in SS but I have gotten so familiar with Cura that I would prefer not to change over, BUT Hilbert Curve 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

So how do you update the firmware? Do you need to? im so new to this that im unaware of what I should do.

Printing over USB is deprecated and no longer supported. It's a remnant from the days when printers had absolutely no brains of their own and had to be told what to do one thing at a time. It's also a bad idea in general. If your computer crashes or something, then boom, there goes your print. You should save gcode files to a memory card/USB drive/whatever your printer uses and run it from the printer itself.

Looking for some help please. I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro, I just upgraded to the latest version of Cura, looking to add my printer via the USB-C on the Ender to Cura on my Mac. Ive tried restarting the Printer, closing and reopening Cura, no dice! any help welcome

You can submit a feature request if you'd like to see this behaviour changed. The devs don't spend much time on the forums so submitting it on GitHub is the best way to reach them.

Is it saving its configuration file? It should be in ~/.local/share/cura/5.6 called cura.cfg

Still for sale.

@T9_AIR - "...A Z seam forms during the time it takes the printhead, specifically the nozzle, to jump to the next layer..." That is (at best) misleading. Consider a hollow box with 5mm walls. There is an outer wall facing inward, and an outer wall facing outward. Whichever outer wall is printed first, there is no layer change when moving to the other outer wall and yet each outer wall will have a Z-seam. The layer change doesn't come into it. In FDM printing there is always a Z-seam. If you can stick the Z-seam in a corner it's less noticeable. See #1. If the object is round you have two choices: Make the Z-seam location "Random". There is still a Z-seam (see #1) but it is at a different location on every layer so it doesn't form a line. This works well on things like printed threads. It can often look like randomly located zits on a print. The Z-seams will all be lined up somewhere on the print. It is the customary scar. See #1. This is two identical parts. You can see that the inner diameter has a Z-seam and the outer diameter has a Z-seam.

I'm running Cura 5.6.0 on Linux Mint. Every time I open it, it shows me the "what's new in this version" advertisement. Also, certain settings refuse to be saved, for example I have to enable tree supports by going into the advanced menu and enabling them every single time I restart Cura. Cura also doesn't remember my home directory and forces me to navigate my entire filesystem when I open every single print, which was noted elsewhere and may or may not be related to this problem of not being able to remember defaults or settings.

This spool of PVA has been open for about a month, there is little left on the spool, enough for a few more prints. We have another spool on order. The rest of this spool has been very reliable. The hygrometer in our lab reads 62% humidity, so we have been printing and storing everything at this level. The spool has been dried in the filament dryer before each print, approximately 10 times.

This spool of PVA is about a month old, there is little left on the spool, enough for a few more prints. We have another spool on order. The rest of this spool has been very reliable. In addition, the hygrometer in our lab reads 62% humidity, so we have been printing and storing everything at this level.

How long has the PVA been open? How was it stored? It can have issues with too much dryness as well as too much humidity. Have you dried this same roll more than once? Is your silicone nozzle cover installed and intact?

I got stuck on this as well. The option to "Add Printer by IP" shows up as the next screen after selecting "Non UltiMaker Printer" as the printer to set up. That flow is misleading, makes it seem like any networked printer can be added. The UI should probably suppress the networked option after selecting non-ultimaker.

Das war nur ein Beispiel ob er zusätzlich wie M0, M1, M25 oder M600 was erreichen kann, mußt er natürlich ausprobieren. Ich weiß dass der Drucker weiß wo er ist, nur seine Firmware läßt nicht zuerst G91 benutzen dann wieder ins Minus zu fahren. Sieh dir sein Script doch mal an, nirgends ein G91 zu sehen. Diese Möglichkeit hatte ich oben genannt. Das war spezial auf sein Druckobjekt gerichtet, was hätte ich sonst schreiben sollen, um heraus zu finden wie seine Firmware tick? Ich hatte auch nicht geschrieben er soll das für immer in sein End Code übernehmen. Er hat nichts verstanden was wir hier schreiben, reine Zeitverschwendung.