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Yep, that would be better. Just check the contact current is high enough for you. It doesn't hurt to go a bit higher there to make sure.

Hi Roald I've been using a 12V relay for mine for over 12 months with no problems. Also most relays don't care about polarity. They would only worry about polarity if the used a magnet or had an internal diode or LED.

Thanks guys, I'll wait till it's fixed and test it again or use 14.01

Hi Dim3nsioneer It stopped working for me. First the old plugin on 14.01 So I tried it on fresh version of Cura 14.02-TEST1 Then I updated to TweakAtZ 3.1-test but no G-Code appears in this case no M140 lines show up had been trying previously and with this version at 0.36mm high and much higher. My bottom layer is 0.3mm It had worked previously for me before and I was changing speed and extruder temp as well at 3 different heights Other than that I really like it

There is no adjustment their Joe. You could only put 2 shims diagonally across one of the linear bearings. Or you could loosen the head screws off a little bit. Maybe if you loosened and re-tightened the screws in the head in a certain order you may get it more square. It's more important to have the axis square so maybe you could loosen off the screws holding the head a small amount so you can twist the shafts to square and align the shafts and then see if you can tighten up the head screws without adding too much friction to the head movement. Slowly tightening the 4 screws a bit at a time and then going to the next screw rather tightening each one right up at a time should help.

Joe: The squaring process involves sliding and tightening the slider blocks along the outside shafts so that they are the same distance from the other outside shaft which will make the head axis parallel to the outer axis. That is, adjusting both X slider blocks to be same distance away from the Y outside shaft. This is achieved by by loosening the screws on the pulleys. You should start by having all 8 pulleys loose. Then do X axis, align with tools, tighten up the 2 pulley screws at one end then the 2 pulley screws at the other end. Then repeat for the Y axis. The only way they can not be square then is if your your frame/outer axis aren't square(probably extremely rare for a UM) or the inside axis were bent (not very likely)

You can't do that Joe and don't need to as that is set at 90 degrees. When your axis aren't square it means that the extruder is twisted so that both axis are out. When you can't get to your screw on the other side after doing one screw you remove your alignment tools and move the axis to be able to get to the screw. Then put on your alignment tools again. The axis will now be positioned into a different half hole on the alignment tools (but should be the same on each one) If you loosen everything first you can make it so your screws on both sides are adjustable at the same spot before you start tightening them.

Hi Mastory If you look at your table for the number next to the temperature you are getting. Then find another table where that number gives the temperature you want. Hope that makes sense.

I thought the leveling on the UM2 was pretty good. Probably good enough to not warrant hanging a servo on the head.

You can do this for the UM1 yourself Nico. Latest Marlin from Erik Zalm has the code and I think there's at least 2 plans on Thingiverse for mounting a servo to the head. See http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:225584 and

What temperature have you set the nozzle to pull the filament out?

try this https://www.google.com.au/search?q=um2&client=firefox-a&hs=BoH&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=jJzwUoGfHYeikwWd_YCIDQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1920&bih=938#q=ultimaker+2+3d+printer&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch

It would normally lie in the region of 1 to 3 Volts max. but usually 1.68V to 2V for each motor. So if you double that then you are well under what the stepper drivers could provide. They are supplied with 19V for the motor circuit so they could probably supply up to at least 17V if they needed to.

You definitely don't want to use the current plug/socket and switch to supply everything.

Yes but I have a different HB thermistor I usually grab the latest firmware and just use the configuration.h file generated from the Ginge's builder. I'm not sure of the method with the Hex file

4.7K not 4.7 but you probably just made a typo there. In light of the thermistor 2 showing up I would redo your firmware again

Hi Harold Your firmware settings look OK Copper wires are your thermistor, black wires are your heater 4.7K resistor in R23, maybe measure this one with an ohm meter Use the ground and signal wire from the connector on the PCB

No, I didn't say I did it Jonny. I was thinking of doing it. But as for the reasons you've stated, the current is the same and double the voltage required, which the stepper drivers should be able to handle. Also an open circuit will make both steppers lose the circuit together which should be a better thing.

Using the relay your temp will be regulated and you can apply 24V to the 12V terminals to get fast heating. You will get double the current running through the cables and relay though and 4 times the power into the HB. Your power supply will obviously need to supply 4 times the power as well. It's all a balancing act. Voltage of PS chosen. Connecting to which terminals on the HB(12V and 24V). Trading of power required to speed of heating and cables required and if you want to run the UM off the same PS then that adds to the mix. Going lower voltage to the UM is possible down to about 15V but you can get slightly less performance from your stepper motors. If you could find a high powered 19V PS or 24V adjustable PS (Common I think, mine is adjustable but only puts out 360W), you could try running the 12V HB circuit from the 19V. It will be quick but you'll need fairly high power, I don't know how much and reasonable cables and relay. It would be good if you could find someone who's done this to find out the current and power required.

I bought 2 more leadscrews and nuts from UM to put in the front corners and was going to attach a stepper motor on each and wire the 3 steppers in series (= no extra drivers or belts etc.) (also = you don't want one stepper to get out of sync with the others). There isn't much room at the front to do it however. I also made this to lessen the back lash in the nut. The nut is held tight in the yellow piece and it uses 4mm shafts and bushings. It has no play Z and takes out all Z wobble but I think I have a bit of play elsewhere which still gives me levelling problems. It is too big for the front corners though so I would need a more compact version for there.

Myself and a few others have blown up the on board MOSFET like this. I don't know how but some people have gotten lucky. Mine only took about a minute to blow. The trouble with running a 24V HB at 20V it will heat up much slower. Change in power is proportional to the square of the change in voltage. So if you halved the voltage the power will be a quarter of the original. The upper limit of voltage is about 30+ I believe. Limited by what the stepper drivers can take and the 12V reg. (which will heat up much more with higher voltage)

As long as the PS has enough watts. Allow 70W for UM. Add the HB Watts and go at least 50W more than that to be sure and you should be right. 24V is more common for HB's though and if you go to 24V for UM you may need a better 12V reg inside UM or at least provide better cooling for the current one.

I prefer not on a reel. You don't have filament in a tight circle at the end of the reel then. Just put it on a lazy suzanne.

Awesome print foehnsturm, especially considering there's no post processing.

I think about 3/4 of nozzle width is about the limit, so for 0.4mm nozzle = 0.3mm. Mind you I think it starts getting ugly above 0.2mm. I don't like to go over 0.15mm myself even if no one else is going to see it.