owen

Try the 2nd one out of these 2 betas http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/

youmagineuser part needs to be lower case too

don't know why my designs don't show though

mmm

testing

You may only have one line of text in your signature. Is the message I got when I tried 2 lines

Good on you LDWorkshop. Enjoy your new TOY!!!

That looks cool foehnsturm what's the tube called and where can I get it?

I thought about that but those parts were easy to make in cad and print and you nearly need them in your cad program to make the shell. I also wanted to make them slightly undersized so the gasket would stretch. Plus the cables would get in the way. So parts are re-usable to.

Yep. I used vaseline petroleum jelly. Printed in PLA

I think that would work. You see a lot of this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/81160-Permatex-High-Temp-Red-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Goo-Maker-/350866532622?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b146690e on eBay which I think would be good too. The mold I made pushed up from below and because of the cables at the back of the heater block it didn't wrap around real well which is why I had to use a cable tie to hold it on. If I were to do it again I'd make it push on from the front. If you're thinking of having a go you should slightly undersize the plastic heater block and nozzle so the gasket will then have to stretch over them.

I made a mould (printed block and nozzle and outer shell around that) and squeezed silicone from a tube into it. It's held on with a cable tie and unfortunately it's not high temp silicone so it has went off color a bit and looks a bit dodgey but functions very well. I have seen that Jorgen has one that looks like it's made from silicon mat or something not sure and someone else has one too.

I have experienced poor printing due to cooling of the nozzle and have since put on a silicon jacket around the nozzle and heater block which fixed the problem. I agree with illuminati about cooling required for bridging but causing warping effects. Also it's very filament type dependent. ABS will need much less fan for bridging but does seem to need some, though as soon as the fan comes on it starts to lose it's grip on the platform due to warping. That's my experience so far after my first attempts with ABS. HIPS filament on the other hand remains gooey for so long without a fan so the print goes terrible. All though I've read HIPS is similar to ABS I am getting the HIPS to stick very well by putting 2 fans on at 100% from the first layer. PLA seems to be between these two extremes. btw I'm new to HIPS as well and my results improved markedly when I made an enclosure for the UM.

It maybe a loose pulley. Check all your grub screws are tight.

Yep you're right. Though all the effect probably happens at the start which could affect your start level and the first few layers. As Illuminarti greasing the thread would be a good idea.

Hi Nico Linux I was just looking at your video. I think it's undesirable to allow the nut to spin like that. When it spins it moves with the screw and hence it is not moving the z stage vertically when it should.

Very nice Ian. Did you use support for the roof or is it made from more than one piece?

There are shrouds made for this power supply on Thingiverse. I would print one of these first and then take it down to an electrical place and as them to attach the power cord and the low voltage wires for you.

Hi Burnsie Mine was 10% GST on Aus dollars value of UM plus $55.20 Gavt. Charges plus $15 Disbursement fee.

I don't know. I'm still learning myself. Do you have a link?

Hi I would have said print slower but you already are, so try thinner layers and/or try a cooler printing temperature. Make sure the first layer is sticking down too.

This was the ebay seller I was talking about JacobS http://stores.ebay.com.au/cncandcupcakeworld Looks like he only comes down to 10mm It may be worth asking him about 8mm and even give him the exact length you want Those other 2 suppliers have a lot of stuff but are quite expensive

I'd say It's the thin end of the cone giving the problem. You need to have the fan on and increase the minimum layer time setting in Cura. It is putting the next layer down before the previous layer has cooled down. Sorry I haven't read the rest of this post.

Easy Out https://www.google.com.au/search?q=easy+out&client=firefox-a&hs=fLT&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ROMVUoSIBYOIiQeEiYHIBQ&ved=0CFMQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=938

You can sand it under water with wet and dry sand paper. Some people have used car body filler with great results. I couldn't find it here with a search. Check out this thread.http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/page-28