owen

Hi from Australia Nice figure and print. Try the latest Cura and play with the support settings, it's fairly good these days.

Hi greengecko Which thermistor in Marlin did you end up choosing? I have just received the same heater.

People have said before that blowing air is directional so you can aim it where you want it from a distance but air into a vacuum comes from all directions. So if you aren't really close not much will flow past where you want it.

Hi Markus What happened to your tube cooling setup? I thought that was pretty good.

It looks like in this photo you started printing a bit high. See how the skirt has moved and not been squished down flat onto the glass.

These guys do a cheap one. http://www.robotdigg.com/product/61/S2M-Pulley . Maybe too cheap. Don't know.

Many people get very different results with printing on glass. So there doesn't seem to be a method that works for everyone all the time. Results vary particularly with the shape and size of the model. Other variables which we may not be aware of like moisture in filament, humidity and outside temperature etc. may all make a difference as well.

I have recently been having this happen. I have had a good piece of glass from a stove bench top for a long time with no problems. Recently I started using ABS glue (10:1 mix ABS to Acetone) It was going good and prints had been sticking well. One day I had this same problem when I pulled hard to get a print off. Since then it has happened about 4 out of the last 5 prints. I scraped off the ABS juice and put a fresh coat on to no avail. The last print I did was easy to pull off the bed and some glass came off easily with it. The glass isn't melted and is difficult to remove from the print. It's like my glass has just packed it in. Anyway I'm just going to use some normal glass for a while now while I decide what type of surface to use next.

PLA or ABS?

Hi Referring to the relay diagram in the link you provided You should have the positive from your HB power supply going to pin 30 You should have pin 87 going to your Heated bed and the other side of your heated bed going to the ground of your HB power supply Can you check that?

What you did is hard to do. The gradual change is usually unavoidable. If you wanted the gradual change you could try printing at a different temperature, though I don't know if it would work. The only other way would be to join the 2 filaments on a sloping cut. Place them next to each other and cut both at the angle with the same cut so you match the angle. Good luck

I used an auto relay. I have had it for over a year with no problems. I like it because it was simple to wire up and doesn't get hot. Some people are concerned because they click but it's hardly heard over the noise of the machine and is an indication that it is working besides. I'd go the auto relay again.

Ahh yep sorry George. I saw the Original and assumed they would have had the 2 as well. :oops:

It's a pretty good rumour http://www.makershed.com/Ultimaker_3D_Printer_p/mkum1.htm

You can also try putting on a silicon jacket on your nozzle and heater block like this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:165750 It works very well.

It would be tricky to mount a bigger than 5cm fan without restricting the X/Y movement (fan bumps into UM walls before nozzle reaches destination). Maybe you could look at a smaller radial fan if you want supply more air. Good luck and keep us informed with your progress.

Thanks illuminarti I just ordered the 225mm X 225mm Silicon Pad from QU-BD I wasn't sure about getting the Basalt bed. I would have needed to get the 300mm X 300mm bed and I wasn't sure about cutting it either. It does sound a bit slow for my tastes. It would be good to have 2 of them for swapping though. btw Rich I found and old thread http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2241-nozzle-diameter-correction/ where Daid is talking about bridging and suggests a fast speed so not sure on what would be the best speed now. Maybe you could find a bridging test model and experiment.

Hi rich You could turn your model 45 degrees in Cura so the strands get put straight accross Print much slower 50mm/second max Only guessing but I think thicker layers may help btw what is the Basalt bed like. Does ABS stick well to it?

I've just finished the one from MadOverlord. I put it in a jar with a wet sponge on something warm. It was very humid in there but still took for ever to cure. I haven't printed with it yet but it should go well. It gives very good coverage of the heater block and nozzle.

Not sure what you're trying to do Cal but I know that 25% is the cut off point in Cura where it changes from cross hatching on the same layer to cross hatching on 2 layers.

It may be going over temperature for some reason. Check your connections in your thermistor path.

Cool. I'm going to make it. Mine has deteriorated a bit lately and I've had to use a bit of kapton tape to hold it together. It still does the job but this covers the whole block much better than mine did so I'm going to upgrade.

Looks great MadOverlord. Is it for the V1 or V2 Hotend?

It should. UM uses about 70 watts while printing plus 100 watts for your heated = 170 watts. So 330 watts is well over that so that's a good thing. I'm not sure that Heater will be real quick though.

I'm using 13.09 for Windows. It's working fine.