owen

Have you lubricated all 8 shafts with light machine oil or something similar? Are your long belts over-tight? Are your centre axis parallel to you our axis?

X is only moving less than 1mm though Joe

I'm fairly certain that's correct Harold, just not sure where to find it on the Um site. Also it's ground and signal you connect to the thermistor out of the three pins

Yep, thats right Harold. R23 4.7k. Thermo same connection as original UM thermo.

Yep, I used that one and it seems right. Only heated the nozzle to 245 and pushed some through so far but it seemed right. Thanks for the drawing too. That will be a great help.

I like MoonCactus' original sliding blocks http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45236. I prefer the included banana belt tensioning compared to ones that hang on the belt. I like the direct drive too mainly because you don't have to worry about short belt tensioning anymore. Also look here http://www.thingiverse.com/tag:ultimaker for the more popular things, they are usually the best I think.

Not sure if someone has said this but in different terminology. Normally you are squeezing out a round shape and flattening it out into a rectangle shape and sticking it onto a complete surface below. In this instance one side is flattened out and stuck down as usual while the outside (that doesn't have a surface underneath) doesn't get squished flat and comes out as a thicker circle which goes higher and lower than the rectangle half (shape of a keyhole on it's side). On top of this there is no adhesion from underneath to prevent the normal warping and lifting of the non stuck down side.

On a UM1 it's available when you do one push of the button. I'd imagine it's similar on a UM2. You have have to manage oozing and re-priming though.

Yeah Except I don't like the colour It needs painting :wink:

@Aaron: Thanks, that's what I was looking for @Robert: Thanks, I needed to snap to the 5 degree increments @gr5: Thanks George. I thought I had read through Illuminarti's blog post looking particularly for this. Maybe I didn't. I've managed to achieve what I wanted to do now thanks to Aaron and Robert but I'll look through all of Illuminarti's blog post again to pick up some finer points

I love it as you use it with your left left hand while doing other stuff with the mouse on the right hand. You don't have to move your mouse away to rotate your model. I'm using it with inventor

I also love the idea behind it, but, I haven't been able to work out how to reorientate my model to the build platform yet. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Hi Dan I'm not a big reader so I skipped a few paragraphs in the middle You probably wouldn't mess up the build of the UM1, it will probably print well or not at all and then you can get plenty of help here. UM2 however seems more reliable, has a heated bed so you can print in ABS. It also has better bed leveling and probably prints slightly more accurately. To get your money back and make a profit you probably need to design and print something that isn't mass produced already and/or is not possible to make by injection molding. 3D printing is a real fun and addictive hobby though so just go for it anyway

Come on Aarons, where's your google skills. http://www.aaronsmetricscrews.com/ I was actually looking for a place in US called metric screws or something that I'd seen before but this place seems to have the right name for you guys :wink:

Yep this is the one that I used and works. This is in my ABS profile which does the 1st layer Flow rate at 133%, Nozzle 260, Bed 130 (not accurate). Layers are 0.12mm From layers 2 to 4 these settings are changed It slows down slicing a bit so you wouldn't want to add many more than this if you can help it

Version 3 works no problems

Hi Jonny You don't have to have it ran by PWM. I think they heat up and cool down to slow for PWM to be a good choice. Maybe try it the other way and see how you go

I think so. You only have to load 2 parts in Cura and look at the GCode for M106 to find out.

Nice work Markus I am currently making a bracket for my cross flow fan now. I have a design for a front cover if you are interested. Made with perspex and hinged using current mounting screws so no drilling into ultimaker needed.

Hi Uma Try 50mm/s and 1.2mm top and bottom. If they are coming out under extruded then turn the temperature up to 220-230.

I submitted a ticket on a product. They had no normal way of contacting them.

Hi Mikilu More usual settings are 110C Bed and 245-250 Nozzle

I got this reply to my query. HI Owen - Thank you for contacting Printrbot. We do have limited inventory on our hot ends at times, but all 4 of our models are currently in stock on our site. Take care, Printrbot team So I looked at the status and it said 1 left. So I ordered it. Thanks Nick for showing us this one.

I have asked through a contact form when it would be available again. I sent a link to this page as well.

Hi Aaron You could try putting your idea here https://www.youmagine.com/design_ideas too.