owen

You can right click on the SD icon in Cura and Click 'Save GCode..' and name it then.

Hi There's nothing wrong with your printer, that's normal. I blew a stepper driver once after I had been vigorously moving the hot end by hand. I'm fairly sure this caused it. So I don't move mine around by hand too quick anymore.

Gooday fellow Aussie It's a bit of an unknown with the UM2 as no one has owned one long enough to see if anything wears out. It appears they have improved a few of the parts which should make them more reliable. I would getting nothing extra or possibly a spare nozzle.

Mate is placing 2 separate parts in an assembly. I don't know if you are able to join them.

Awesome Valcrow. Well done mate.

Those gaps look intentional to me George. See they are bigger the closer to the back with the intention of the base plate being able to move horizontally with any wobble in the Z screw but the 2 arms and the platform remain steady around the rods. I think you may get away with it or even get an improvement if you don't have a wobbly Z screw.

Did you type it in ian or copy and paste?

No, it's much less power. About 200 to 300 watts on and off depending on temperature set and outside temperature, compared to 2400 watts for a heater. So much less but not insignificant. The rest of it uses about upto 70 watts whilst printing.

I'm fairly sure the diodes are already in place on the PCB. I use an auto relay rated at 40 Amps with 12V coil. It has given me no problems. Link to schematic here. http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.3_PCB

Welcome. Nice boat.

My big wheel is hard to get to now so I hardly ever manually turn it. At the end of a print my GCode pulls the filament right back out of the heat. If I have to stop a print then I already go in and move the Z down with the ulticontroller so it's only 2 menu steps from there to turn the extruder back to my usual starting point. I prefer this method to manual now so I think everyone will get used to it.

It's got to do with Heat Bed Temperature and when your fan comes on I think. It's a tricky balance as having the fan come on too soon or too hard causes lifting off the bed. My settings are 125C Bed, 245C Nozzle, Dual Fans on from the start at 30%. Heated build chamber (though I don't know if I need this or not as I had it before I started printing ABS but I think it helps). I've avoided what you are getting now and usually getting it to stick but still not every print sticks successfully.

This problem is worse with a new spool. After you've fed the filament in wind the spool backwards by hand to take up all the slack. I noticed in your video your spool sits towards the back of your spool holder and not directly under the material feeder so maybe if you can bring it forward to be directly underneath as well.

That's all OK Drayson. The 80% is what's giving you the speed of 200. If you need 255 all the time you would need to set Min and Max at 100%. If you look through your G Code you will notice a bunch of lines that start with M106 and finish with S(200 to 255). Unless you need to have your fan running flat out all the time you could leave it as is. For ABS I have Min and Max set to 30% with dual fans. Which gives a fan speed of 76.

what's your fan Min and Max in Cura? (Expert Settings)

Looks great MAdOverload, thanks for the updates. Looking forward to seeing the files.

.iam is the Assembly file in Inventor. .ipt is the part file which you already have there.

Minimum order is 3 Daniel

Hi all I had a blocked nozzle today since just starting to print in ABS. I took apart my extruder which I hadn't done since getting the V2 nozzle upgrade when it came out. I noticed the tip of the nozzle wasn't a nice round shape but didn't think too much of it. I have been adjusting many things with some success to make ABS prints stick well but was struggling with some small parts. Then I thought I would run a file over the nozzle. At first I overdone it as the metal is quite soft and then I finished off with wet and dry sand paper. I was taking a picture with my phone so I could zoom in for a good look at it. The difference in the first print was chalk and cheese. It gave a perfect smooth Brim and really nice sides on a print of 2 prints in one go that previously were hard to get to stick and came out fairly ugly. I get many fairly good prints but these difficult prints came out so much better. So if you haven't checked in a while or having problems that you can't quite resolve check the tip of your nozzle to see if it is a nice flat circle.

Not sure Nicolinux but maybe if you try raising the temperature a bit, that would increase extrusion a bit (make wider tracks) and make it stickier

Are you able to wiggle the bed due to adjusting screws being too loose?

yayyy!!!

Looks much better MadOverlord. Do you have vents for the rubber to exit from your mould? It's a bit hard to tell. Thanks for you efforts.

I use a relay. I like it as it has never failed and it's small and has no heatsink to worry about.

Looks good MadOverlord My first go I only waited about a day and it was too soon. 2nd go I waited 3 days and that was long enough.