IRobertI

Who's saying the display is all you need? That's just silly talk. The printer itself can't slice STLs so cura (or another slicer) is a vital part of the equation.

This is not a software thing. This usually happens if you aren't careful when removing and storing a spool you've already used. It's very easy to have the end of the filament go underneath a coil on the spool and then you have this issue. You might not notice it as first since the filament can keep unspooling normally for a while but eventually it gets too tight and gets stuck. Only way to fix it is to uncoil the filament a bit and find the point where it crosses over and clear it.

I thought I was the only one. I have the same issue on my work laptop. I resorted to using the older 2.5 and that works fine for some reason. I never dug into the problem because I hadn't heard of many people having the issue and figured it was just something weird on my end. I guess it's time to dig into the logs and see if there are any clues in there.

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#caked-nozzle

I know for the UMO the reliability increased by about 1000% when the spring was added to the feeder. It was rigid before Bertho came along with the new spring loaded arm design. I remember back then even something basic like retractions were a pain.

My bad, I thought you were in Ultigcode and that was causing it to inject your snippet at the wrong location. I had no idea about the behaviour ahoeben described. I kinda assumed that gave you full control.

Change your gcode flavour to Reprap in the machine settings.

Unsure of the spring. Looking at the BOM for the 2+, this is mentioned "DIN 17.224 material nr. 1.4310", does that help? To prevent the spring from flying away (which hasn't happened to me yet even though I've opened a fair share of feeders), set the tension to the minimum setting before opening the feeder. It will make re-assembly easier as well.

Tweak your bed levelling a bit? Still, I would say two tenths of a mm is pretty decent...

The default air gap between the aluminium base and the bottom of the heater PCB should be about 14mm. It's fairly important to not stray too too far from this as it can cause issues with the automatic bed levelling. What I'm guessing is that you are using the screw in the back to adjust the bed during the first step? This is wrong, you should be rotating the menu knob to adjust the bed height for the back position. You only use the screws for the front two positions, not the back, always use the menu knob for that position.

You realise you're on a forum where 99.8% of users are Ultimaker owners, right? Seeing something similar on an Ultimaker I would diagnose it as backlash and tell the user to tighten the short belts that run the X and Y movement. For your printer, not sure. But search for "backlash Anet A6" and see what that turns up.

Could you describe exactly what happens? The first part of the calibration is all on you. You physically move the switch and then physically move the head into position. After that, the printer will home and test the switch on its own.

Those atomics are no good. Are you pushing until you can see filament flowing out of the nozzle before lowering the temperature? Are you keeping pressure on the filament while the nozzle is cooling down? (keep light pressure on until the nozzle gets down to about 150C or so). At what temperature are you pulling it? It looks like you might need to let the nozzle cool down a bit more since the filament is snapping off too early. You want the tip to look like this: https://pbs.twimg.com/media/CJ9WO1XUcAEaTlm.png:large Also, I didn't react before, but you said "3mm" filament. Does that mean true 3mm or the more common "2.85mm"? If it's actually 3mm in diameter, that could be a problem. If the tolerances of the filament aren't that great, it could mean that it's going over 3mm and that means it will have a real hard time going through the system.

Hard to say. How chips like these will handle going over the max rating is a bit "random" as it depends on so many different factors. Was it hotter/cooler than the test conditions for the chip? How well does the board sink heat away from the chip compared to other configs? How close to the absolute maximum insta-fry voltage did they spec the chip? Does the faulty PSU always stay at 54V or does it fluctuate? etc etc But verify that it's the PSU first. You have another UM2, measure that PSU as well with the same meter and see that you get a different result (should be 24V).

I'm looking at the slightly older 2.1.1 schematics (I don't have Altium to be able to look at the latest ones) but I think the differences are very small with the newer 2.1.4. Anyways, U6 looks to be a voltage regulator with a max input voltage of 46V. So if your PSU is actually putting out 54V then the issue is obvious and would explain things nicely. I've worked as support for a few years now for the Nordic distributors and while yes, boards do fail, I wouldn't class it as common. So I wouldn't worry that you'll be replacing mainboards every year.

IIRC he's using filament from Taulman that, mostly, come on tiny spools.

Apologies for the confusion. Siebet is right, no spacer there, my bad. I didn't pay attention to where the picture was taken.

Click the blue "Sign up" button at the top right and then swap over to the log in "tab". Yeah, it's rather confusing...

Has it been like this from the start or is it something that has happened suddenly? I can be difficult to fix. There's a small chance it could be fixed by loosening all the screws that hold the frame together, putting the printer on a known flat surface and then push down on the frame from the top with a lot of force and re-tightening the screws. I've tried that a couple of times on printers and it didn't work unfortunately. Worth the 10 minutes to try though, just in case. What fixed both of the crooked printers I had was replacing the top frame of the printer. Bit of a pain to do though. If the printer is brand new I would just get in contact with your reseller. Or, if it's not affecting print quality (which it probably isn't), just live with it.

Have you looked inside the printer for the spacer? Since the rod got loose there's a good chance the spacer fell off and is hiding in the printer somewhere. It is _very_ unlikely it got out of the factory without the spacer, almost impossible I would say. Turn the printer upside down and shake it a bit This can happen if one or more of the set screws aren't tight enough on the rod to hold the pulley in place. Make sure you go through all the pulleys and tighten the set screw on each. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#protrudingaxes

Does it happen with every model or just some? If you look at the layer view in cura, what does it look like? The ridges seem to line up with the little "spikes" on the top, maybe there's something weird going on in the exported model that is causing it?

Has the feeder chewed up filament recently? It could be that the knurled feeder wheel is completely loaded with filament dust and is having a hard time gripping the filament. Take the feeder apart and give it a good cleaning. Here's a guide on how to disassemble it: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder Obviously you don't have to take it completely apart to get to the feeder wheel.

It's heavily dependent on the stepper motor driver that is being used. The ones UM uses happens to make the steppers fairly loud. That in combination with the resonance chamber of the UMO makes it worse. You could print out one of the many flexible feeder holders, they make a huge difference. To get an idea just unhook the feeder while you're printing something and hold it in your hand, you'll notice a dramatic change.

Possibly the infill showing through to the surface. Try un-checking "Infill before walls" and see if that helps.

"Cold pull" and "Atomic" are interchangeable terms. It's the same thing really.