IRobertI

Switch over to "Custom" and you'll be able to set whatever settings you want. Or at least you should be able to. I'm assuming you mean that there are only pre-made profiles available with those layer heights? Ultimaker does a LOT of testing to create those profiles which means they take a long time to produce.

ASCII/binary shouldn't make a difference as far as the actual model is concerned. It's just how the file is written. Binary is much more compact so it saves on disk space. And waiting 28 hours is indeed a bit much. That's why I usually cut out a small chunk of a model where I'm wondering if my measurements are ok or not. For example I might want to insert something into the print, so I cut out just that hole and print that to test. As for CAD software. There's tons out there. Some free good ones off the top of my head are Fusion 360, Onshape and Designspark Mechanical. Fusion is probably the "safest" bet right now as it's become massively popular.

This is most likely an issue with the USB-stick. Try re-formatting it and try again, or try with a different stick.

The tower needs a new layer added to it for each new layer of the model to "keep up" with the rest of the print. This can't be changed. If we didn't build the tower at the same speed as the real model it would mean the bed would have to go up and down for the priming and that would cause the print to crash into the gantry of the printer. Is that what you meant?

You say you tensioned your belts, but did you also tension your short belts? That's the most common cause for this. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallspace

There is not. However, except for the nozzles which will be useless to you without an Olsson block (which I highly recommend), the other parts can be used on your machine as well. The more powerful heater and the new PT100 might lead to some temperature swings at the very start of the print but I don't think this should be any real issue. You might also want to buy a spacer to replace the spring above the PTFE as the TFM that comes with the maintenance kit will work better with the spacer. The spacer is cheap. If you can afford to pay a little extra, the extrusion upgrade kit is a very nice option worth looking into as well.

Complicated answers given here... Just sketch a line where you want the model to be split and then add an Extruded Cut feature. In the options, check "Thin Feature" and set the thickness to something very thin like 0.1mm (this will be removed from your model). Select "Through all" for both directions and confirm. You'll be asked which bodies to keep, leave it at the default "All bodies" and you're done.

Read the last line, it says what the problem is. Your file is too high resolution and Cura will not load it because of that. Reduce the number of triangles in your model (by changing the export settings of your CAD software or using something like Meshmixer, Windows 3D Builder, Meshlab etc) and it should work. Searching for something like "decimating mesh" on google should get you in the right direction.

What do you mean by passes? You can reduce the size of the tower, if that helps? If you type in "prime" in the search box you'll see all the settings for the prime tower that are available. Each setting has an explanation if you hover over it with your mouse.

The file doesn't appear to be saved as a project so no settings came with it. Also, the file appears to be corrupt, take a look at it in xray view and you'll see red areas. When looking at the layer view the center of the model is not printed properly.

That does unfortunately seem to indicate that something is wrong with the PT100 (temperature sensor). I would get in contact with your reseller, explain the measurements and tests you've done and ask them to send you a new sensor. It's unfortunate but at least it's pretty straight forward to replace. If it makes you feel any better 99.9% of everyone the company I work for has sold the upgrade to have been very happy with it in the end. @Torgeir The PT100 of the UM2+ (the one that comes with the upgrade kit) looks a little bit different than the one you describe from the UM2. The new sensor only has two white wires. And I honestly can't see a possibility where the contact for the PT100 has ended up on the heater wires.

So the distance is 71mm rather than the expected 75mm? If so, this isn't due to plastic shrinkage, it's simply too much to be that. Like Gigi said, print something smaller and verify on that. Say a 20x20mm square and see how that goes. I would suspect some sort of scaling error during export from Sketchup or an accidental scaling you made in Cura. And just as a general piece of advice, if at all possible, try to avoid Sketchup. It's notorious for creating bad models that cause all kinds of problems.

It's basically printing "infill" on the prime tower. Personally I think it's dumb that they have the prime tower setup to print that way, it's noisy and wastes time.

Not sure I understand what you're asking for but you have "Outer before inner walls" and "Infill before walls". Between those you should be able to get cura to print in whichever order you need.

I can't speak for everyone but I've been recommending pushing down the cable a bit so that the individual conductors gets a bit of a curve to them so that the can move around a little bit more freely. I also recommend, like you said, to put some tape around the cable to give the strain relief a bit more to bite into. I've been doing that for a couple of months now and it has fixed the problem 99% of the time. I had a customer call me the other week who reported he had had no further issues since he made that "fix" a couple of weeks prior.

If you have access to a multimeter you could also measure the resistance between the two wires of the contact (of the sensor, not the board) and post the result. It should be somewhere in the neighbourhood of 108Ohms in normal room temp.

A thin blade like a utility knife has always worked for me. Slide it in between the frame and the cap and pry it out. You'll probably also find that the rods are very firmly stuck in the frame. To get those out I usually wrap a piece of cloth (like a micro fibre cloth or similar) around the rod once and then twist the remainder to form a sort of handle. Then I use that to rotate and push the rod out.

These are the settings I h ad.

Try setting "Line Width" slightly lower than 0.4. I set it at 0.38 and it sliced fine.

Are you talking about the side fans or the front fan? The front fan should spin as soon as the cores start heating up. This is intentional and is to prevent heat from travelling up too high in the cores (not to prevent them from heating too fast).

Printing faster/slower can also affect the amount of plastic being extruded, thus changing tolerances slightly. I usually recommend that people print a series of test holes at varying amounts of tolerance added to see which works best with that particular cura profile.

There aren't different types of firmware for the UM3s and you wouldn't be able to install UM2 firmware on it, so no, you don't have to check compatibility in that sense. What type of printer it is (UM3, UM3 Extended) is stored on the printer in a memory location that isn't touched by the firmware update as far as I know (which is why the Olimex board has two different SKUs rather than one). I haven't done a calibration in a long time because I'm a terrible person that ignores that warning most of the time But no, that doesn't sound like expected behaviour.

On the older UM2s the most common cause by far is a worn out PTFE coupler as already stated by others. I'd like to tweak the recommendation on getting a new one though. I would suggest that you get the updated version used on the UM2+ which is called a TFM instead of PTFE coupler. Also order the spacer that goes with it and remove the spring you have now. This combo lasts a LOT longer than the old one and the difference in price is negligible. Second most common thing is a clogged nozzle but it sounds like you've got that covered (although material coming out during the "Move material" procedure isn't a guarantee that it isn't partially clogged). Another thing worth checking is that the fan on the back of the head is running. It should either turn on as soon as you turn the printer on, or after the head reaches ~42C. If the fan isn't running it can also cause similar problems where the first couple of layers work fine but then the heat in the head gets too high, the filament swells too high in the system and starts causing too much friction.

Yes, ideally the screws should be aligned in such a way that they are both visible at the same time. It's very easy to "mess up" during assembly though. The way you handled it sounds fine to me. The ferrite cores aren't strictly necessary. Like gr5 said, they're there for certifications more than anything. The number of ferrite cores and where they're placed have changed a couple of times over the years. The beep you're hearing. Could it be retractions? The new feeder is slightly louder and the motor spins at a different speed so the change in pitch might be what you're reacting to compared to the old one. If that's not it, post a video/sound clip, otherwise it's very hard to figure out what it is.

https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/44677-maximum-build-volume-ultimaker-2-plus-ultimaker-3