IRobertI

Just push and hold the release lever on the feeder upwards and pull the filament back with your hand and you'll be able to remove the core. Afterwards you can do the same thing but push the filament forward towards the core again. Just take note of roughly how far back you pulled the filament out and push it back the same amount, it's not mm sensitive. Worst case you'll have to restart the next print because the core didn't prime fully. No biggie.

Ouch, that sounds horrendous. It kind of sounds like the belts are riding up on the sides of the pulleys. Check if the belts are lined up so that they run parallel to themselves so to speak and also that they are at least somewhat centered on the pulleys.

I moved your topic to the Cura sub forum as I'm assuming that's what you're using. It doesn't belong in the news forum. Which tutorials are you referring to? What version of the slicer are you using?

Increase your print speed a bit I think. I've had printers for a few years now and I've never printed that slowly. 6mm/s on the outer walls is way overkill and will give you worse results than going faster. The nozzle is moving so slowly over the print that it's overheating the previous layers. Try something like 30-35, that's still fairly slow but the plastic wont turn super liquid in the nozzle. That, or decrease your temperature by 20C or something along those lines and see if that helps.

Difficult to say without listening to the noise. But one possible culprit could be dirt trapped between the pulley on the stepper motor shaft and the wall of the printer. Another option is a bad bearing in the head, or in one of the corners of the printer.

You will only see the "code" for the pic until you post or preview the message.

Read this thread: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/23300-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area

While those STLs would be cool to have available, you don't really need them for this. Just move the head to a corner of the machine and you'll have to go full on HULK SMASH! to bend the axes.

It's just that tiny little white PCB.

I've unpacked and checked a few hundred UM2s and I've never found a screw loose inside the machine. I have however found nuts a few times which I assume someone dropped accidentally during assembly (never found a missing one on the actual machine). This is worrying to say the least. It would be interesting to know what type of screws it was.

The Gcode is compressed, sent over the network to the printer and executed locally by the printer. Not at this time.

It could be coming from infill being printed before perimeters. Try unchecking "Infill Before Walls" under "Infill" and see if that makes a difference. You probably need to add that setting and you can do that by hovering over the "Infill" header and clicking the little icon that pops up to the right.

Not right now, no.

I'm not the right person to answer that question as I have no experience with that type of setup. But, those that do will probably also want to know for how long the printer needs to be able to run without power?

Ouch, you didn't need to remove the panel for that job. The rods are always put in after the frame is built already. I would probably slide the two rods out of the way to make things easier to fit everything together. Unless you have someone who can help you out with aligning the rods into the bearings while you try to match up the tabs and slots of the side panel. Doing that on your own will be almost impossible I think. But if you slide the rods out it will be much easier. As mentioned, the rods are held in place with the pulleys so if you loosen the set screws on the pulleys on the opposite side the rods can slide out of the way. After that it's just a matter of lining everything up and pushing it together. You might need to use some percussive persuasion (smack it! ) to get the tabs into their slots. If they still refuse to go in, check that the corners of the tabs have become bent slightly which can happen quite easily. After that it's pretty easy to slide the rods back in place again. Place them in the middle so they don't protrude from either end. Slide the pulley and spacer (make sure you didn't drop one in the previous step) as far to the side of the printer as they will go, right up against the bearings, and tighten the set screws again. Tighten them hard. If you need pictures and further explanation there's an assembly manual here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/ edit: The direct link got mangled by the forum. Go to the link above and scroll to the bottom and you'll find the manual there.

Shouldn't be a problem. And as a backup you always have the option to level manually and disable automatic levelling.

Yep, that looks like what I linked to. Follow those instructions and you should be good to go. What has happened is that the set screw on the pulley has come loose during shipping (probably) so that the pulley can move along the shaft. Since the pulley is what keeps the rod in place, the rod is free to move through the bearing.

Try deleting all your settings by removing this folder: C:\Users\YourName\AppData\Local\cura The latest 2.3.0 and 2.1.x doesn't play well together and interfere with each other.

The only size I know "for sure" (don't hold anyone to it, nothing official has been said yet AFAIK) is a 0.8 core in Q1 2017. I know that they want to make more sizes, but when that will happen is unknown at the moment. With the UM3 "ecosystem" it's not just a matter of releasing a core with a bigger hole at the end of it. They also need to make sure they have complete and well tested profiles for each material ready. This takes a lot of time to do. People that have had access to the machine early have tested several different materials in the same AA core without issue. PLA, Nylon, PC, it has all worked in the same core without issues. The exception is PVA which has to be printed with the BB core. The printer comes with two AA cores so I would probably do a "low" temp material and a "high" temp material split to keep things simple. Officially they are not user serviceable but that hasn't stopped anyone in the past, right?

Is it this that you're seeing? http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#protrudingaxes

Change both. On the printer it will set settings like temperatures and fan speeds. In cura it will load print settings that are tuned for that particular material such as speeds, bed adhesion and layer heights. However, the profiles for materials in cura should be seen as a starting point. They're meant to be a good "average print" setting and may need to be tweaked for your particular model or needs.

Yes, it degrades quickly by absorbing water from the air. So if you're not planning on using your printer for a couple of days it's best to remove the spool and store it in an airtight container, preferably with a pack of silica gel. How fast it degrades depends on how humid it is where it's stored of course. It can be dried out if moisture starts affecting print performance.

No, not a dampening system. It's needed for the bed levelling. The nozzle actually depresses the plate slightly during levelling.

@mechaneil, how many parts did you split it up into? Looks fantastic.

The connection to the board is completely different for the head (it's a single connector) and it communicates over i2c. So you would also need the new control board + the other new board + custom firmware to make up for the differences.