IRobertI

Hover your mouse over the "i" in the lower right corner, that'll show you how much time different parts of the print is taking. That might give a clue.

Is the fan in the front cover on the print head running?

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker-Original-Plus/blob/master/Buildmanual UM Original %2B v2.pdf

It's not about what temperature you set the bed at. What has happened here is that the wires were no longer held firmly in place, this leads to a poor connection with a high resistance. When the printer then powers up the bed that leads to heat being generated in the point where the wires connect to the board and it causes them to melt. You should be able to get a new board from any local Ultimaker reseller.

The sliding block moving up and down is because that rod isn't perfectly straight. You could attempt to bend it back into shape, but that's not easy. Or you could buy a new one, or live with it if it's not affecting your prints in a way that bothers you. The noise could be the bearing, but I'm suspecting the belts more. With time the belts dry out and get quite noisy. Easy way to check is to simply pop the rods out of the sliding blocks and try to move the rods through the print head outside of the printer and see what that feels like. While the head is out, move the sliding blocks and see if the sound remains.

This is a forum of volunteers, they are not getting paid to answer you within a certain time frame. If you are unable to change the brightness of the LEDs from the menu on your printer then it's possible that the component that drives the LEDs has broken and is therefore giving the LEDs full power regardless of the setting.

Technically you could probably print this using FDM if you used a smaller nozzle such as 0.25. But I'm guessing the surface quality is quite important on these so SLA might be a better bet. If I were to print it using SLA I would try printing it straight on the platform without supports. It's not the way it "should" be done, but I think it could work. If you do it correctly and tilt the model and add supports I think there's a good chance you could damage the blades when removing the supports since they are so thin. Also, I think you need to fix your model because the blades are not attached to the walls.

At this type of scale you're not going to be able to do it with an FDM printer like an Ultimaker. You're going to need to go with an SLA printer or something similar. But yes, with the right type of printer you'll be able to print this.

Very nice. One of those "why didn't I think of that"-moments for me for sure. I cut vinyl on an UM2 a few years back which worked quite well. I later made a replacement head instead that I just swap in when I want to cut vinyl. Made it much sturdier and produced cleaner cuts: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/16402-cutting-vinyl-with-an-ultimaker-2/ I'll be keeping an eye on this for sure. I already have the parts so it could be a fun project 🙂 edit: Just had a very quick look at the github project you linked to as well. Looks like it's simply converting to lines, it doesn't do any drag knife semi-circles for corners? (I forget the proper term, I'm falling asleep here as it's quite late 🙂 ). Might want to look into that as you'll very likely run into issues just trying to "print" the lines as normal, it tends to rip the vinyl.

I'm confused. If you know that your STL is broken (which it is), why not fix the model rather than trying to use Cura to work around it? But for what it's worth, both MS 3D Builder and the Cura plugin "Mesh Tools" could fix at least "sample.stl" which I tested.

When you say "all grub screws", does that include the ones on the motor shafts? Those are the most common to cause this issue.

You could also try calculating when the spool will run out and add a pause at that point so that you can swap the spools manually and keep going.

That's a "prime tower", it makes sure the nozzle is full of material before starting on the actual print (it can also help wipe residue off the nozzle so that it isn't dragged into the print). Some materials are more "runny" than others and loose a bit of material from the nozzle which means you might get a little bit of underextrusion when swapping between the materials. For PLA they've managed to tweak the temps and timings so that the PLA is printed just barely hot enough to extrude properly but still be basically ooze free when swapping nozzles, that's why it can be printed without the tower.

Isn't that exactly what the setting "Infill Support" does?

Cura isn't a person, it can't know what you intended with a broken STL, it just takes its best guess. Sometimes the outcome is "correct", sometimes not. That it looks correct in Blender is irrelevant if the exported STL-file isn't created correctly.

The closest at the moment is this: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/materials/ There's no good search/filter function at the moment so you'll have to find the material you're curious about and click it individually. I'm told filtering is on the way.

If you want to keep settings and modify them later, what you want is to save a "project"-file. Load the STL you want to print, do all the settings and tweaks you want to do and then do a File -> Save. You should get a window with a summary telling you that you are saving a project file. This can later be opened and it will contain both the model file as well as the settings you used.

It is available on the page that Sander linked to. Scroll down a bit to the "File 1", "File 2" links.

The red areas indicate that there's something wrong with your STL. Since the model is broken, Cura doesn't quite know what to do and takes a guess, sometimes it works out, sometimes not. Sometimes it helps to play around with the settings under "Mesh fixes", and sometimes it helps to run the STL through a repair tool. Some CAD programs are worse than others when it comes to creating broken STLs, Sketchup is notorious for it.

You're far from the first one to miss that little detail, I've had several support calls/tickets about it 🙂

You mean that it happens when you start the build plate calibration, at the first step? That's normal and intended behaviour. Use the menu wheel to adjust the rear position and the thumbscrews for the front left/right position.

I think heat might be the biggest issue here. Depending on how hot the resin gets as it cures it could be enough to cause the PVA-mold to deform due to the high stresses that gets put on it due to the vacuum.

I see Slic3r running at the same time? Could it be hogging the card?

You can install a plugin called "Mesh tools" which will give you a heads up. It can also repair some issues (tried it with your file and it didn't work). There are also some Mesh Fixes settings in Cura that you could play around with and see if it helps. What it comes down to is that the file isn't exported correctly (Sketchup is notorious for this) and the slicer takes it's best guess as to how to handle it. In this case Slic3r got lucky and guessed right and Cura didn't.

Your file is broken. Take a look at it in X-Ray view in Cura and you will see red areas that indicates a problem with the model. You can try running it through an online repair tool like the one from Netfabb and see how that works.