LePaul

@gr5, just checked....yes to red light! But not to the heated bed PCB so that got me thinking... I recalled that where the red/black where screws into the power terminals seemed a little wiggly. I unscrewed the terminals, removed the wires and put them back in again, going a little extra tight. Well, now we have red LEDs on the Heated Bed PCB! And since the heated build plate wasn't attached to the bed....i discovered how warm it gets! Right now I'm doing a test print and impressed how flat the first layer goes on a 70C plate! One other thing....is it normal for the Z screw to sound ticky? The print is going very well, asides the usual robot hands looking ugly...and the Z layers look good. Maybe a bit of grease?

I see what you mean, okay...so I should see SOME sort of red glow if the bed is heating... New part was shipped, so if that's the problem, it should get here in 2-3 days

PVA glue is what's suggested, right? Like these....

I don't see a lot of documentation about use of the included glue stick with the heated bed printers. I noticed many do not use it, instead taking advantage of the heated bed When I tried out the glue stick, I was wondering what to do with those smears Use a wet cloth and spread it around? I know I have read where some use a few drops of wood glue and water, paint it on the glass and allow to dry I'm just really curious what people have used and suggest? And if just glass printing, what's the sweet spot for temps? I really want to retire the blue tape for good since it takes TONS of force to remove my prints on the UMO

Thanks for your responses. To turn on the bed only, I have been going into the menu, Temperature, Bed and turning that up to 50. Correct? I do not see a red light on the new PCB. I did not think to check the main board as you suggested. I will check the TEMP 3 area for a light when i get home I just heard back from fabrc8 and they think the cable is bad and are sending out a new one under warranty. I will check that red/black wire on both ends (as pictured from the manual)

USA Support replied with some good advice. I took the bed apart and verified that everything is connected properly. To your question about the RED LED....no, not present. I loaded a print and the printer said Heating Bed, then checked. Just the GREEN LED. Here's how the wires are connected to the bed. Per the documentation, it's all correct. USA Support asked me to check the resistance per this graphic. AS you can see, I am way lower than the suggested (same reading on all three spots)..No idea why the forum software insists on displaying it sideways... Any idea what's gone awry based on this?

Okay is that labeled D1 on the PCB? I had no red lights last night but will check again And photograph the leads into the bed itself

I created a new thread for this in the Hardware Troubleshooting section of the forum

No red lights noticed...where, on the PCB, are they located? I can check for that

Hi, I did it exactly as the manual showed. I'm at work so I can't photograph the plate at the moment But correct...I created a print that uses the new profile (heat plate is checked off) and sets the bed to 70C. When the print starts, it says heating the bed but stays at 17/70

First, I am envious you have a new printer! Congratulations! Second, it's nice to hear some feedback on this new and improved printer. I am glad you posted the default-settings robot and your better print. Just shows how nicely these printers print when dialed in right!

I did enjoy that "Print the Legend" documentary that had him and others in it. He completely turned me off from ever purchasing anything related to him

I meant to add...I did submit a support ticket to the USA support desk.

@SanderVg any ideas? I wonder if there are any areas I should check with the multi-meter? PCB has power (green LED lit) Here's some pictures... No issues going on here...everything is connected fine....but if you spot something I didn't...tell me! Heated Bed PCB...we have power (Green LED lit) the large heater wires (grey) are in fine. The connector below has me a little concerned how it droops a bit...but the connection is secure. I can print...and as I quickly discovered, a print quickly falls apart fast on cold glass But wow, that Z stepper movement is MUCH quicker than the original one! I am really struggling to remember which way to turn those knobs to move the bed up and down!

I'm have the very same issue...PCB has the green indicator light...but no temp

Well a few snags in the upgrade kit....doing my first test print using the Ultimaker robot model using the latest Cura (15.04.4). Bed temp set to default (70) and upon loading the file into the printer, the bed temp sits at 17/70, then briefly 18/70, then back to 17. Everything was followed to the letter of the directions....not sure where to start looking...will double check things are still plugged where they were supposed to. Firmware was upgraded, etc.

They should show the price differences, too. And someone pointed out their Makerbot acquisition...I still find that hilarious today. The Open Source 'pioneer' sold out to closed source. Biggest. Dolt. Ever.

I'd like some close ups and details on the feeder and how it is adjusted, please And a small french fry to go!

Props are fun, printed the SW7 blaster over a course of weeks on my UMO. I kept quoting Han Solo during those long prints..."Hear me baby, hold together"

Well if you see my part results, I had some oddities too

So fans off, on, steam....how complicated is this stuff!

Keyboard stand?

Oh bugger, @labern is the one ruining our fun

I've been so wrapped up in all the neat things the Ultimaker 2 can do, I completely overlooked that. I really need to install my hot build plate upgrade kit some free weekend

Everyplace I looked showed out on the Extended....with them expecting to ship at the end of the month My bad....it looks like a slight wait for an Extended. The U2+ is available tho.